Otohime or BBS for Clownfish Fry

Katowoo

New member
Any thoughts on which is better after the rot period for clownfish fry? Which is most cost effective in the long term? Reed's got Otohime yet I can set up a DIY hatchery for BBS cheaper.

Thoughts...
 
I like to use Otohime because it is far easier and you don't have to worry about whether the BBS were decapsulated properly. If the larvae eat the shells of the BBS eggs, they can get a clogged digestive system and die.
I normally give mine BBS every third day starting at day seven. I'll start Otohime A on day three or four. After metamorphosis I stick to Otohime only.
 
I went with Otohime merely because I simply had too many other things to worry about, and did not want to be growing more food.

For me it was simply a matter of time spent in the fish room.

For my Tomato's it is rots (in greenwater) alone until day 7-8 them a mix of Oto A and stop the green water. After 3 more days the remaining rots get pulled and it Oto from there.

--landlord
 
Both ;) The BBS are good to keep a steady food level available all day long, while the Otohime A is excellent to broaden the fishes nutrition with 2 to 3 meals a day.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15406795#post15406795 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Katowoo
So Biil - ur recommending a mix of BBS and Oto?

For maximum growth, that is the way I do it ;)
 
I used to use BBS after Rots. Now I've since I've switched to Oto A only after Rots and my fish are better off no question. My survival rate has gone way up as well. Of course I feed several times a day so they don't go hungry. Its a huge time saver too.
 
If I'm not mistaken Otohime A normally floats. Otohime B1 mostly floats and Otohime C1 mostly sinks.
 
Oto A floats for a bit then sinks. When they are real young I usually use small pinches and submerge my fingers to release it and swirl my hand in the tank so it disperses.
 
Thx Rk. I'll order some from Reed when I order some RotiGrow Plus that someone else was mentioning on another thread. New product from Reed.
 
Thx guys. How long do you keep the fry on Oto A? What do you give them after Oto A. Do you move to Oto B and so forth?
 
I have two batches of clowns. One group is about 50 days old and the other is less than a week. I used bbs for about 4 days with my first batch and plan to do the same with the second batch. I will offer the oto A and bbs overlaping with rotifers, stop offering rotifers then a few days later stop the bbs and only feed oto A for a few weeks and then offer oto B1. I have been feeding B1 exclusively to my older fry for about 3 weeks and have had zero losses during this time.
 
Last edited:
Thx. GF. I ordered a starter kit of Otohime (A/B/C etc) and a bottle of that new Rotigrow Plus from Randy @ Reed Mariculture today. I'll let you guys know what I think of them. The Rotigrow Plus is not even on their website yet. Randy took the order off of me over the phone.
 
Thx. GF. I ordered a starter kit of Otohime (A/B/C etc) and a bottle of that new Rotigrow Plus from Randy @ Reed Mariculture today. I'll let you guys know what I think of them. The Rotigrow Plus is not even on their website yet. Randy took the order off of me over the phone.
 
Thx. guys. So I've got 300+ true perc frys still alive after day 3. I'm worried that I'm going through my rots at too fast a pace and don't want to deplete them. Ive got 2 x 5g cultures going. Should I be worried?

Questions:

1)What's everyone's suggested schedule for feeding and on what days? eg. 1-5 days rots / 5-8 days rots + BBS or /and Otihime / 8 + days just BBS and or only Otihime? I know a lot of the respected members on this board suggest just Otihime which I have a starter kit from Randy at Reed already.

2) What's everyone's cleaning and water change schedule for the fry tanK?

3) When's the best time to put a sponge in the fry tank at what day? I've got one cycling in my main tank for 5 days now.

I've got Joyce's book but I want to see what everyone else does successfully as well.


TIA everyone!
 
I would wait until about 6 days before feeding the Otihime and hold off on putting a sponge filter in there until you have finished feeding rotifers. Make sure that you keep the water in the fry tank green while feeding rotifers. On my last batch (of 60 or so fry) I only added rotifers to the tank once. They were able to maintain a stable population but I don't think this is the norm. As for cleaning. I would siphon the bottom of the tank at least once per day, twice a day if you have time. Once you get the sponge filter in there you can get by cleaning the bottom every few days. Good luck!
 
Thx GF. BTW - does your id inidcate that you raise frogs as well? Just asking cause my youngest boy wants a big Ex Terra habitat for his birthday and he wants red eyed tree frogs in there. The big reptile show is coming to Sacramento early sept so that's where I'm going to pick up everything.
 
Need some help here pls. I've harvested about 1/3 of each of my 2 x 5G rot cultures and rinsed them off this am in the fry tank (300+ fry) and I don't see many left. I'm worried about depleting my cultures if I can continue to add more today. Thinking about ordering an emerge batch of either 600K or the 5M count from Reed on monday. The PH in both the fry and rot culture tank are about the same and the SG in the fy tank is 1.022 and the rots are about 1.018. I've added a decent amount of rotifier diet to the fry tank to maintain a lght green. Are the 300+ fry going through the rots faster than I can put them in there daily or are the rots dying right away in the fry tank? Thoughts / Help?

BTW - 3 days after the last batch hatched, today the parents just laid another clutch. This is the 4th batch now and every time they lay a new clutch 3-4 days after the last like clockwork and the eggs hatch on the 7th day everytime.
 
Back
Top