E-A-G-L-E-S
New member
how is it a fire hazard? the outlet isn't going to be used
Outlet problem!
- Thread starter E-A-G-L-E-S
- Start date
Deadmullet
New member
Even though you are not using it it the outlet still has electricityand is still hot. If the short gets worse it could arc and start a fire
E-A-G-L-E-S
New member
well.....i talked to my pop, who has been in new home construction his whole life, and he told me that he's never seen that happen. That the chance of that happening is about 0.01%.(in this situation-loose connection on a single outlet)
I've had outlets like this before and have never had a problem...i remember one outlet i had my in window a.c. on that was loose as all get out and the only thing that would ever happen is it would turn off.(which is what happened to my Mag9.5)
So, i think i will just wait until upgrade time as i do not want to take down my whole system to replace.
I've had outlets like this before and have never had a problem...i remember one outlet i had my in window a.c. on that was loose as all get out and the only thing that would ever happen is it would turn off.(which is what happened to my Mag9.5)
So, i think i will just wait until upgrade time as i do not want to take down my whole system to replace.
E-A-G-L-E-S
New member
well, i just ran the Mag on the ext. cord and capped the top outlet AND i put, for lack of a better explanation a curtain draped over the outlet to keep mist away.
physicslord
New member
I think I can answer a few questions here.
You can buy a heavy duty extension cord with a gfi built in at Home Depot.
That's what I use. It's nice because it keeps the plug and wall outlet far away from the tank area.
First of all, I would buy one that actually lists how many amps it can handle (15 is normal). Obviously you wouldn't want anything higher since the wall outlet is rated for 20amps which will trip the breaker. If it doesn't have an amperage rating, then I wouldn't assume! It could be meant just for light duty like running a desk lamp or something. Sometimes you will see ones that say 300V. Note that this does not specify how much amps it can handle, just max voltage.
Waiting for the cord to get hot is one way or you could do your own safety calculation.
Let me stress this is my rough common sense calculation. If something horrible happens remember that I'm NO expert.
I don't mean to sound condescending, but you can calculate how many amps you are drawing with the simple OHM's law formula P=IV
Power in watts, I is current in amps and V is voltage in volts.
Now if you are running two 250W MH ballasts that's 500W. So 500W/110V is roughly 5amps. You are safely within range using an extension cord rated at 15amps.
However if you put a pump, and two 400W ballasts on it, then you're getting closer to the limit:
1000W/110V ~ 10Amps.
Watch out cause a normal chiller will draw close to 1000W when it switches on!
All of your devices will say somewhere on them how much power they draw. Of course they aren't always drawing the max amount of power so who knows what's actually happening. And of course if there is some kind of short then they will start to draw a large amount so hopefully the gfi will trip or the built in breaker in your outlet strip will trip before the socket starts to fry.
Arc faults are rare in general, but if salt creep gets on the outlet they are almost sure to occur.
You can buy a heavy duty extension cord with a gfi built in at Home Depot.
That's what I use. It's nice because it keeps the plug and wall outlet far away from the tank area.
First of all, I would buy one that actually lists how many amps it can handle (15 is normal). Obviously you wouldn't want anything higher since the wall outlet is rated for 20amps which will trip the breaker. If it doesn't have an amperage rating, then I wouldn't assume! It could be meant just for light duty like running a desk lamp or something. Sometimes you will see ones that say 300V. Note that this does not specify how much amps it can handle, just max voltage.
Waiting for the cord to get hot is one way or you could do your own safety calculation.
Let me stress this is my rough common sense calculation. If something horrible happens remember that I'm NO expert.
I don't mean to sound condescending, but you can calculate how many amps you are drawing with the simple OHM's law formula P=IV
Power in watts, I is current in amps and V is voltage in volts.
Now if you are running two 250W MH ballasts that's 500W. So 500W/110V is roughly 5amps. You are safely within range using an extension cord rated at 15amps.
However if you put a pump, and two 400W ballasts on it, then you're getting closer to the limit:
1000W/110V ~ 10Amps.
Watch out cause a normal chiller will draw close to 1000W when it switches on!
All of your devices will say somewhere on them how much power they draw. Of course they aren't always drawing the max amount of power so who knows what's actually happening. And of course if there is some kind of short then they will start to draw a large amount so hopefully the gfi will trip or the built in breaker in your outlet strip will trip before the socket starts to fry.
Arc faults are rare in general, but if salt creep gets on the outlet they are almost sure to occur.
Last edited:
E-A-G-L-E-S
New member
thanks lord....but check my post before yours, i took care of the problem.
*ohh and the simple OHM's law formula P=IV....is not exactly a widely known formula, just so you are aware.
But thanks for helping.
*ohh and the simple OHM's law formula P=IV....is not exactly a widely known formula, just so you are aware.
But thanks for helping.
physicslord
New member
Well let me dispense a little more common sense safety.
Now, resistence generates HEAT. When a device draws a lot power through the cord it is important to make sure there is good contact between the prongs of the plug and the outlet wiring.
Why? Because a fire will start at the point of highest resistence because that's where things are getting hottest. So a bad outlet where you have to jiggle the plug is a fire hazard.
Ideally, an outlet should be tough to get the plug in and out of. That would usually mean there is good metal contact in there.
If you really don't want to repair that plug, just be sure to never use it again! Put some tape over the outlet and write "bad" or something on it. That way the next guy who tries to plug something in there doesn't start a fire.
Now, resistence generates HEAT. When a device draws a lot power through the cord it is important to make sure there is good contact between the prongs of the plug and the outlet wiring.
Why? Because a fire will start at the point of highest resistence because that's where things are getting hottest. So a bad outlet where you have to jiggle the plug is a fire hazard.
Ideally, an outlet should be tough to get the plug in and out of. That would usually mean there is good metal contact in there.
If you really don't want to repair that plug, just be sure to never use it again! Put some tape over the outlet and write "bad" or something on it. That way the next guy who tries to plug something in there doesn't start a fire.
