Oyster Reef Ecosystem Tank

After you glue up a bunch of matched shells, use those rubber bands to bind them together. Gorilla Glue will stick a little bit on the rubber bands, but it usually comes right off. Here are a bunch of them bound, and then ready to make a cultch:
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Starting a cultch, gluing matched sets of shells together...I love when there are barnacles and remnants of other invertebrates on these shells, gives it a realistic look:
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But that isn't all. This is only the beginning. What about the little caves and crevices for the fish? The oyster reef as a reef will provide plenty of hiding places for all critters. But, if you want the fish to breed, they have preferences for their amorous activities. They breed in dead or broken oyster shells, as do some of the other species of oyster reefs.

So, back to matching oyster shells again. This time, I matched what I called "near matches" since I wouldn't be gluing them totally together. Basically, i wanted them to look like they'd match if they weren't together, but they didn't have to be exact. So, another night or two of clanking oyster shells to make my family annoyed was in order. The next step was to glue them together and create spawning habitat.

As it turns out, there was a study in 1982 bu Roy E. Crabtree and Douglas P. Middaugh, titled, "Oyster Shell Size and the Selection of Spawning Sites by Chasmodes bosquianus, Hypleurochilus geminatus, Hypsoblennius ionthas (Pisces, Blenniidae) and Gobiosoma bosci (Pisces, Gobiidae) in Two South Carolina Estuaries,", and in that study, they found that the widest preferred oyster shell gap that they found with eggs that the striped blenny preferred for the spawn was 11.9 mm. And, as it turns out, that is the same width as the end of the clothes pins that we had, and they were the perfect form for creating matched spawning oyster caves. Feather blennies also spawn in similar sized oyster shell gaps, so if I catch them, these would be just fine for their exploits.

For the naked gobies, the gap was 7.1 mm, about the measurement of the end of the plastic shims from Home Depot. And the clingfish will spawn in just about anything that they can defend from the others.

Gluing near matched halves together to make fish breeding habitat, using clothes pins as gap forms:
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But, would the Gorilla Glue hold? Yes, it did:
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So, the past few days I've been drilling holes in oyster shells (man, they are tough), using zip ties, and Gorilla glue to make cultches. I also made frames for the three large sections of oyster reef to support my cultches, and also to be the forms for the MMLR. I used CPVC pipe to make slide on supports for the cultches, zip tied 1/2" CPVC as a pedestal, and the 3/4" CPVC to hold the oyster cultch base to slide over the pedestal. The reef frames were formed from PVC pipe, zip ties and egg crate. When they are finished, 2 sections of reef should be about 18" or so wide, and one smaller one.

Using clamps, zip ties, and rubber bands to form cultches:
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One of the reef boxes/bases...these will have glued oyster shells on them, and filled with MMLR (after I finish the cultches):
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Building a cultch over the cultch base of CPVC pipe:
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Coming along nicely... Starting to look like that first picture, eh? I already took one apart because it didn't look real enough. I hope I don't run out of oysters, but I have all winter, LOL!
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And this was as of last night...
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The tedious part is waiting for the glue to dry and hold, so you can keep building. I imagine that there are faster ways of doing it, but I'm kind of learning as I go. And, in a way, I'm almost building the reef as if oysters are doing it...and it takes time. Plus, I want it to look perfect, like that second picture above on that mangrove oyster reef.

After I'm done building cultches, they will be set aside and the boxes will be filled with MMLR and kured/cured for use in the tank. A few months of water changes, and I'll be ready to reassemble the cultches in what I hope is a set up cycled tank. So, the problem that I have with live rock along the Bay is that there really isn't any, save for cinder blocks and such, and that's not very attractive. Most of the rock are clay boulders or marl, sandstone, or other metamorphic rocks (quartz, etc).

But, while the MMLR is kuring/curing, I'll be adding other shells to the cultches/reef...slipper shells, a few more barnacles here and there, and of course, some muscle and clam shells, all found locally. I won't have to worry about much time matching them, they're a heck of a lot easier than those variable oysters!
 
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Oh yeah, I will have a QT tank for the fish, and will acclimate them to full salt water. That way, I can add more local invertebrates from saltier sections of the bay, and the ones that I'm interested in will do just fine.
 
freaking sweet. I got to keep up with this build. We have oyster reefs like this around Galveston.

Thanks! I've been at this for a while, but now have the support of my wife and daughter to get it up and running. The fun part will be collecting the critters! Now, if I can keep them from getting mad at me until I'm done with building the reef! :worried2:
 
I've been slowly but surely working on these. Below are my latest oyster cultches using the Gorilla Glue. I'm doing away with the egg crate boxes. But for now, they make great platforms and supports for building the oyster cultches. Instead, I'll have PVC frames to support the cultches imbedded directly in DIY live rock. I'm hoping to get to the DIY live rock this weekend.

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I know that there is some spillage, but I'll wind up gluing on more oysters there anyway. Eventually, I'll have a full reef of these.
 
Here's where I am today...I've been using the egg crate/pvc box as kind of a form as I create these cultches, but it won't go into the tank as you see it above. Rather My plan is to build a PVC skeleton (still to be made) to mount the cultches on, then embed that skeleton into a DIY base rock (still to be made). There will be two PVC skeletons because I don't want to make one massive DIY rock.

So what about the gaps between the cultches? After all, i want it to look like a complete reef. I will build a duplicate set of PVC skeletons that are equal in size and shape to the ones that will be embedded in the DIY rock. I will situate the cultches as I want them in the tank on the duplicate skeletons and continue to glue oysters to the existing clutches and fill in the gaps. Then, once the DIY rock curing has been completed and the pH is OK, then I will swap out the duplicate skeleton and replace it with the DIY rocks w/skeletons. If I can get the tank set up and cycled but the DIY rock isn't ready, then I will go with this until the DIY rock is done curing, then swap it out later.

This reef will take up more than one third of the tank on the right side, and I'll have a smaller reef (one large longer cultch) in the mid foreground on the left side of the tank. I will use the same process as above for the skeleton and DIY rock concept. When looking at the picture below, imagine the two rows of cultches with no gaps and no egg crate, but not quite as much vertical relief (maybe some day, but I don't have enough oysters right now).

I hope to have all my set up equipment purchased in the next month or so, and the tanks set up and plumbed shortly after that. I need to purchase lighting, pumps, powerheads, and an RO/DI unit. It's coming along. I still have some work to do with the stands, but am not worried about getting that done just yet...soon though.

Here's the latest...I'm really happy with the way this is turning out.

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Sorry it's taking so long...time and money are my issues, both I hope to resolve soon.
 
Take your time and enjoy the build - you're going in the right direction.
Looks great.
Ray

I second that.

I lived in Lexington Park for a bit. There's some pretty country down there, with Point Lookout being a favorite of mine.
 
Thanks everyone for your support.

So the reef build is coming along and I'm going to purchase my tank equipment this week. I will be ordering my RO/DI, a pump for my return from the sump, a couple power heads and lighting.

Here's the latest on the oyster reef aquascape below. I made the bases out of cpvc pip and will embed them in concrete DIY reef rock. I laid them out on the side of my stand to finish gluing the oysters on, so I can get a sense of how it will look in the tank, since the plywood is the same dimension as the base of the tank. The oysters stand 15" tall, and the water level in the tank will probably be about an inch or two above that. I'm excited how it's coming along, much like I envisioned. It really looks much better in person than in the pics. I can't wait to see what it looks like in the tank with water and sand.

This pic is a few days old, looking down to get an idea of what the scape might look like. The front of the tank is to the right. There are some gaps that I've later filled in shown in the last two pics.
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This is looking from the front view:
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This is from the left side of the tank, looking down...just another angle. Lots of gaps filled in. The oysters laying out are the ones that I still have yet to glue on. The oysters will eventually be just about 3" off the bottom, just over the sand bed, at least that is the plan.
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Very nice - keep on gluin'!

There are some nice sponge and sea squirts (and anemones, sea horses, blennies, shrimp, etc.) in those beds in the Bay as well - they might fill in some of the gaps nicely as you get this up and running. Looking forward to seeing some water in it, Kevin!

One thing you may want to check into with MD DNR is whether you'd need a "recreational fishing license" or some such if you pick up vertebrates such as a sea horse, blenny, or other fish. They can be sticklers as times. There's also a few "permit free" days throughout the year that you might be able to schedule around. Just a thought.

Cheers,
Ray
 
Thanks Ray! Ultimately, that is exactly the type of invertebrate life that I want once the tank becomes established.

As far as the license goes, that's not a problem for me because I always have one. I'm an avid angler (fresh and saltwater), and I've consulted the regulations on collecting both for this and also I want to set up a stream tank with darters some day. It's interesting though, that as long as the species that you collect isn't protected, they aren't concerned so much with what non-game species you collect. Most of the regulations seem to be concerned with how you collect them (legal equipment, seine size, etc.) and when. Oysters have a season though, so that would be the only thing. I don't plan on keeping live oysters at this point, but I may add one if my tank conditions are right in a few years. As far as animals for this tank go, things don't seem problematic.

I can't wait either! :bounce1:
 
I bought some Beckett's Pond Foam and will use that after the base rock is done to add the last lower layer of oysters directly to the base rock to fill in those bottom gaps. I could use the foam only now, but I need that biological filtration capability of the base rock. I need to hurry up this process though so I can get the stand finished ASAP because I'm in the process of choosing equipment. I'm kind of obsessing about this part, getting it right.

Here is my list so far:

Pumps:

Jebao DC 3000, max 800 gph at 3m head for my return pump. My head height is probably less than 2'.

Sicce Voyager 3 Stream, 1,200 gph for circulation. I may put this on a timer to simulate tidal movements...down the road.

RO/DI - looking at The Filter Guys Ocean Wave Five Stage 75 GPD. I'm on well water, so I'll need their well package and a booster pump, and a few other accessories.


Salifert test kits for Ammonia, Nitrate, Phosphate, Alkalinity, PH, and Copper (for my QT )

Plumbing parts, will hard plumb this system

Rain barrels for RO/DI storage

I am not going to start with a skimmer as of now, but may add one down the road (saving money for that just in case). One reason for that is that the fish will come frmo brackish water (on the saltier side, but not full seawater) and I'm not sure that skimmers would perform if I keep the tank at the same salinity as I collect. If I start having problems, then I'll acclimate the fish slowly to full seawater and then add the skimmer.

Lighting: Currently thinking about the Current USA Orbit Marine LED Saltwater Reef Lighting System. I will supplement with another lighting fixture too so I get full tank coverage if this one doesn't do it. What I want most is for the fish colors to be at their best, but this should cause macro algae to grow, I hope. This is where I need some advice, on what best to use for this? I like the idea of LEDs being more energy efficient, but was also thinking about a T5 fixture. Also, I kind of like the shimmering of LEDs. Since these fish live shallow in the wild, I think that would be a realistic feature of my tank.

Cost is a factor too for this equipment, so I don't need top of the line best reefing stuff since I'm not growing corals. I need good functionality and best bang for the buck.

What do you all think about my choices? What do you all suggest or recommendations if they aren't adequate? Any reviews of the above equipment would be appreciated.

I will start ordering equipment over the next couple days.
 
Kevin, for bright, shallow water simulation you might want to consider two banks of daylight/6500K t5s/ 2 or 4 bulbs each (depending on just how bright you want it) - and leaving a bit of space in the middle. A couple horticultural fixtures should work pretty well here. I'm using a 4 foot 6 bulb t5HO horticultural fixture on my 2 X 4 frag system, and it really packs a heck of a PAR punch, so you can, if you're not careful, over do the light with these, depending on mounting height and water depth.

Then supplement with a couple daylight LED spots to provide shimmer, either in the middle, the front, or both. Something as simple as a few of the daylight halogen replacements might work pretty well for this. Something like the MR16 LEDs from Homedepot might work pretty well (I've used these in the living room track lighting as halogen replacements and in the kitchen as task lighting - they pack a punch):
http://www.homedepot.com/s/mr16%20led?NCNI-5
I'd try a 3000K and 5000K to see which works better for your application. That would bathe the bed with light and still provide a great simulation of daylight glitter lines. And you will be able to grow a substantial amount of algae with these as well while keeping the cost moderate to low.

Take a little time, draw things out, visit Home Depot or Lowes, re-draw things out (it might be worth a trip or two by the time things are said and done), and then try out a few of your more favorable options. And enjoy working on it!

You're doing a super job, man, and while we're all eager to get things done yesterday quite often, sometimes its much more fun to take a bit of time and make sure things fit before we fill them with water.

Cheers,
Ray (who, after shoveling the driveway while my significant other plowed the main drive and neighbors' with the tractor, is dreaming of snorkeling over a warm, sunny, reef...)
 
Thanks Ray!

I would like to simulate the solar/lunar cycle also...I guess I can do that with cheap timers and cheap blue LEDs too. That would save a ton of money compared to an expensive fixture/controller. I don't think the fish care much about fading light at the beginning and end of the day.

Where did you get your horticultural T5 fixtures?

I still need to shovel out my 100' driveway...ugh. :(
 
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