Ozone Safety Warning!!!

Randy what types of problems did you run into with the Coralife Reactor? I just hooked mine up last week and am a little concerned.
 
The internal hard plastic tubes seemed to very rapidly no longer fit and hold into the slots in the drip plates, it is very hard to get it put together with the bioballs inside without the tubes falling out, the air vent hose (that also takes out some water) seemed too loosely connected, and bumping it made it fall off repeatedly, the airstone started making only large bubbles after about 2 weeks, it takes way too long to open and close it.

The bulk water did not get very highly ozonated, maybe due to the large bubbles.

I guess that's al I remember right now. :)
 
Last edited:
I agree it's poorly designed... I'll have to keep my eye on it to make sure it doesn't eventually fall apart. I'll have to look into getting one from marinetechnical. Thanks for the info and the link.
 
That one looks pretty easy to diy. The plastic looks like typical plastic shavings as if you took a plane to a piece of pvc. It seems like a place to get detrius clogged though.
 
Yes, That looks way to simple. I myself am interested in making one. Randy, How should the ozone be intruduced? Could I used bio balls? That unit has a pressure gauge as does their calcium reactors. Is there any need for that?

Keith
 
Here is the setup I use to manage the air vented from my skimmer.
The collection cup has a drain that is hosed to a waste collector, the collector has activated carbon chamber in the exaust and the exaust is piped to the outside of the house.
The skimmer is a down draft ETS 1000 running on an Iwaki RLT70 which generates a pretty good air pressure so the housing has not been a problem. I noticed that slightly pressurizing this kind of skimmer increases the speed of disolution of ozone, reduces the bubble size, increase the amount of foam and increases the staility of the foam column.
Waste_Collector.jpg
 
Hang on a minute PVC and bio-balls are not stable plastics when in contact with Ozone and may cause toxins to be released from the plastics.
You guys need to be more carefull about this issue and more aware of what materials are in your skimmers and reactors at any point of contact with the O3.
I haven't used a comercial reactor before and most likely wont as there pretty simple to build, so I can't comment on the materials they use because I do not have one to look at.
I have a gas compatability chart somewhere about this from a manufacturer I'll see if I can find it.
 
Tested at more than 1000 ppm of Ozone
PVC = Good
CPVC = Excellent
Low Density Polyethylene = Good
High Density Polyethylene = Excellent
Polycarbonate = Excellent
Polyacrylate = Good
Silicone = Excellent
Polypropylene = Fair Used in small fittings
Nylon = Severe Effect Used in many small fittings
Buna N (Nitrile) = Severe Effect (Normally used in O Rings for Skimmers) recomend to switch to silicone O rings

So in summary the risky areas for a Skimmer are some small fittings, same fitting may come in different materials Nylon, Polyethylene or Polypropylene so check your compatibility. Also O rings may have to be replaced. For Silicon O rings go to www.mcmaster.com most sizes available. You can also use Teflon O rings but they are more expensive and less flexible so may not seal as well as silicone.

http://www.ozoneapplications.com/info/ozone_compatible_materials.htm
 
The problem is that most studies are only based on effect of Ozone with the material, not what they will start to release due to the reaction.
PVC is a good example and depends on its form and density as to how good it is.
The only ones you should pay attention to are the ones that say nil or none
I don't like there chart, the one I have,(when I find it) says something like none, some and alot. It is more spacific in it terms so I'll keep looking for it.
 
Randy, How should the ozone be intruduced? Could I used bio balls? That unit has a pressure gauge as does their calcium reactors. Is there any need for that?

The basic goals, as I understand them, are to have as much air/water contact area and time as possible, have a long time where the ozonated water can "react" before it passes over GAC, and have the whole air/water mixing area under some pressure if possible. All of those things will maximize the ability of the ozone to get to and react with chemicals in the tank water.

My April Reefkeeping article will primarily cover these topics. :)
 
Back
Top