Pacific Sun Hyperion S (LED Only)

[Spyderturbo007]

Does anyone still have one of these fixtures? I'm referring to the LED only, not the LED / T5 hybrid.

I'm wondering if anyone has had any success with them. I've been out of touch with my tank for about 18 months. After killing all my coral when switching to the Hyperion S and then being overrun by Aiptasia, I lost interest in my tank. Anyway, I've gotten rid of the aiptasia and I'm back in the fight to try and make the tank beautiful.

After doing some searching about the fixture, I can't find much of anything. I was hoping someone had figured this thing out in the last year and a half or so?

I know that Pacific Sun bailed on RC around the time everyone was experiencing issues with their fixtures. But that's a moot point now.

I'm just hoping someone has come up with a spectra that works well, or if I need to go shopping for new lights?

 

[Przemek_PacSun]

Firstly, you need remember that Hyperion S are leds which not use white LED chips.
What it mean - this kind of light never should be set "by eye".
We had many reports regarding power settings - a specially Customers which switched off from T5 or HQI to LEDs(Hyperion S).
Many of them start using on 70-80% power - because "they don't look so bright like previous setups". It's a big mistake.
Corals don't see light - they are getting energy coming from light source and typical Hyperion S panel with 145W power emit more energy than 400-500W metal halide or T5(please compare efficiency in "blue range". Actual LED's emit about 720-800mW energy from each 1 Watt taken while T5 - about 150-200mW maximum. The same about efficiency in visible range - new type LEDs can emit even 220lm/W while "typical" T5 - about 70-80lm.

Using LEDs you need to remember about proper microlements dosing and not going to ULNS tanks. Too much light without detectable nitrate/phosphate levels(low, but detectable) is asking for troubles.
It's like using very store light in freshwater tank without additional carbon dioxide supplementation.

Regards

Przemek

 

[Spyderturbo007]

What it mean - this kind of light never should be set "by eye".
We had many reports regarding power settings - a specially Customers which switched off from T5 or HQI to LEDs(Hyperion S).
Many of them start using on 70-80% power - because "they don't look so bright like previous setups". It's a big mistake.

I don't really want to get into this because it isn't the point of my thread and I've been down this road before. When I bought my fixture, I went on the advice of Pacific Sun on how to set my fixture for acclimation. All of my corals were destroyed within 2 weeks as the flesh melted off.

I didn't decide how to set the light, I was advised how to set it by Pacific Sun.

What I'm looking for are real world examples from owners as to their experience and settings. I'd like to get this light to work, but if I can't find anyone who has had success, then I'm willing to throw in the towel.

There is very little talk about this fixture and the only pictures of colorful corals were posted by Pacific Sun. And to go further, I'm pretty sure the pictures posted were of the LED / T5 hybrid lamp.

Either way, I'm not trying to stir the pot or start trouble. I'm just looking for some feedback from users on settings that work.

 

[Przemek_PacSun]

Ok I understand - however from my point of view - main "problem" with LED fixture is that every Customer can set his own fixture on thousand different methods.
Adjusting color channels, power, daylight time etc.
Nobody will give "gold advise" - because something which is working for you will not work for any other.
Simply example - T5 tubes are known as best light source for SPS corals.
You can only dial with number of blue, whiter and actinic tubes. Additionally - time - usually 10 or 12 hours, right?
But, in my 22 years experience I saw much more ugly looking tanks under T5 than under LED's
What it mean? It mean that light is only one of important factors - for me, it's not most important. There is much more like stable key parameters(alkalinity), low PO4/NO3 levels etc.
For somebody who used before 800W T5 bulbs - moving to strong LED lamps will not be a problem. If other Customer used 2 bulbs 54W each - moving to the same fixture will melt his corals..
Im trying only to say that nobody can give only one and best advice. We are measuring light in natural environment every year. We check spectrum, light intensity and reflections during two weeks above natural reefs(Fiji, Bali, Thailand etc).
That experience allow us writing best as possible (and closest to natural) sunlight programs which allow to mimic natural light like in the nature.
But again - key is what was before.
If you will set too long daylight or too much power - it very easy to achieve photo inhibition or photo saturation effects. It will kill your corals - a specially SPS.
Long time ago I learned what it mean - SPS - Stability Promote Success.
If something going wrong - it easiest for all of us to say - it's made by light(lamp).
We are not trying to find any other source of problems -sometimes it's wrong salinity, sometimes not stable kH or ULNS problem =or ions balance unstable tank(if you dose balling but without mineral salt).
We are not so much popular in USA (yet ;-) ) - but I hope that it will change.
To be honest - there is not so big difference between our lamps and for example - Radions or AI.
all lamps can almost mimic in 100% others - due many color channels..
Question is - what we expect from tank, what is our goal.
If you will have more detailed questions regarding best possible light settings please let me know - I will try to help you answering on it.
Thank you.

 

[Jtime]

Hi. I am using Hyperion S with no T1 supplement. I have 2 x 145W fixture. It definitely can grow SPS well. I Amrit of this. I have by no means a "beautiful SPS Tabi". But, I have a mixed reef, and have gotten fast growth of some SPS with these lights. I have had some problems, but it has nothing to do with lights. I am learning every day, and have been adjusting flow, nutrient levels, feeding, etc. getting these parameters correct will yield best success for me, undoubtedly. Perhaps I can help you with settings. From all of the reading I've done, and communications with others using this lamp, Bali setting appears to work best. Many lower red and orange colors while running Bali. I have red at 60% and orange at 75% for now. The rest at 100 %. My total power settin is 65%. Secondly, you need to have a PAR meter. You should adjust percentage such that PAR reading is about 300 (no more) at base of your high light demanding SPS, and 150 at base of Lower light demanding SPS. The PAR should be 75-40 at base of LPS corals. There are other parameters that I can tell you later. I am judging these parameters based on what other successful pacsun users have done, and based on a recent experiment done using radions, where great success is achieved with these PAR levels. I'll text you link. READ IT! Lastly, you simply are best off not running an ULNS in my opinion with high energy LED. It's like driving a high powered Ferrari with very low octane gasoline....it won't perform well and may damage the engine. You need to keep nitrates at about 5'ish and phonsphate between .02-..08. This means having a lot of fish. Feeding liberally, and perhaps even dosing nitrates. Most of what I am saying is based on extensive reading and at least partial success on my part. I am still working to get nitrates up, and will test PAR this weekend with Apogee. Read this: http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Ecotech_CoralLab_WP1.pdf

 

[TheMoeMan]

I have the Hyperion S 4 lite. An issue I'm having just recently is the protecting lenses over the lights have started to either melt, and the power is only at 55%. I've emailed a store in Orlando Florida and await their reply. Do you know of anyone who may carry replacement covers? - Maurice