Paleing sps- lighting intensity or duration?

[kenith]

I moved my sps colonies out of my dt for aefw treatment and they colored up the best I've ever seen them using one power head, cheap 6 bulb t5's with bulbs that were of unknown age. Since moving back to my dt, they have lost considerable coloration, which took about 3-4 weeks. Even the green slimer is paleing. The qt did not have fishes and the dt does. Here's some tank info:

3 large tangs and 1 swallowtail angel fed daily selcon soaked mysis
(2) mp60's running about 40% varying modes
Dosing zeo coral vitalizer and zeo
PO4: 0 (Hanna ulr)
NO3: 2.5ppm (salifert)
ATI 8x80w t's running 9 hrs a day (2 bulb on/6 bulb on/2 bulb on/off)

The biggest thing I can think of is lighting. I've never had my sps color up the way they did as they did in the qt. cheap low powered t5's vs my ati 8x80? Is it possible the par is just way too high running 11" off the top of the tank?

 

[sirreal63]

What are the nitrate and phosphate reading of the QT tank?

 

[kenith]

0 for both

 

[jda]

Stress comes to mind first. Is your tank bottomed out with N and P with zeo, or that there is some there even though it tests at zero - my second thought is that the zeo is driving you N and P too low, but I am not a zeo guy and do not know.

There is not much chance that you have too much PAR - I can put 6x 250W HQI over my standard 120G and everything just thrives more than it did with 3x 250W HQI.

It is funny that I have had SPS tanks before with just a sea swirl return and a few power heads that were just as nice as my current tanks with massive flow pumps. I think that most of the flow is about the reefer and not so much the reef. The newer pumps are indeed more reliable, though.

 

[kenith]

They weren't subjected to a lower N or P than the qt tank was. If anything, there's a slight amount of N in the dt. The qt tank had no fish, therefore, less available nutrients. I'm dosing pohls xtra and coral vitalizer, which feed and add nutrients, not lower them. At this point, I feel like the lighting may just be way too much for them. I had this issue prior to the qt change, where the colors were pretty dull or just non existent.

Stress comes to mind first. Is your tank bottomed out with N and P with zeo, or that there is some there even though it tests at zero - my second thought is that the zeo is driving you N and P too low, but I am not a zeo guy and do not

There is not much chance that you have too much PAR - I can put 6x 250W HQI over my standard 120G and everything just thrives more than it did with 3x 250W HQI.

It is funny that I have had SPS tanks before with just a sea swirl return and a few power heads that were just as nice as my current tanks with massive flow pumps. I think that most of the flow is about the reefer and not so much the reef. The newer pumps are indeed more reliable, though.

 

[ramseynb]

If you're running full zeo, what does your potassium look like? I know that low K can cause pale SPS (especially monti caps).

 

[Peter Eichler]

Are both really 0 with a hanna ULR checker? If so I'd question those results and also question if that's not the problem. Phosphorus is a necessary component for life and it's detrimental to have it so low that it's not registering on a test kit like that.

Also, they may have colored up from not having the AEFW and then paled a little for the bump in light intensity. Strong T5's tend to make corals pale, especially with longer photoperiods.

I'd suggest feeding more and maybe dropping the photoperiod by an hour. The worst that could happen is your fish will be happier and you save some on your electric bill while sacrificing a tiny amount of growth.