PAR for a SPS tank
- Thread starter 110galreef
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110galreef
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they make DE now
http://www.marinedepot.com/14000K_M...ght_Bulbs-Phoenix-MB2651-FILTBUMHSEHW-vi.html
probably can get elsewhere for cheaper. I actually have 2 used ones like 4 mos old. I plan to try and get PAR numbers!
110galreef
New member
Mos90....
I ran 250w Phoenix 14k SE about 6 mos old on 250 HQI setting drawing 295w.
MH only comparison to the XM 20k 400w SE on regular 400w setting drawing 430w
I saw like 40-60 less PAR on bottom level stuff
like 25-75 less PAR midlevel
like 20-100 less PAR top 1/3.
Biggest difference was near the bulbs center and diminished as readings neared far left or right.
I avg with the 250w SE phoenix bulbs about
95-125 PAR on the bottom reading corals
100-165 PAR on the mid level stuff
155-220 upper level corals.
That glass sheild must be killing your PAR. cux with just 2 250w MH's and the T-5's i was able to see 400 PAR on the top levels of corals near the MH's centers. And I am one less bulb than you and 6 mos old so maybe 15% drop in output?
I noticed that there seems to be a drop about 8" from the front of my tank of like ~100PAR compared to against the edge of the acrylic.
Must be the way the reflector is shaped to allow the t-5's ....that ledge must make a kind of dead spot w/o the t-5.
I ran 250w Phoenix 14k SE about 6 mos old on 250 HQI setting drawing 295w.
MH only comparison to the XM 20k 400w SE on regular 400w setting drawing 430w
I saw like 40-60 less PAR on bottom level stuff
like 25-75 less PAR midlevel
like 20-100 less PAR top 1/3.
Biggest difference was near the bulbs center and diminished as readings neared far left or right.
I avg with the 250w SE phoenix bulbs about
95-125 PAR on the bottom reading corals
100-165 PAR on the mid level stuff
155-220 upper level corals.
That glass sheild must be killing your PAR. cux with just 2 250w MH's and the T-5's i was able to see 400 PAR on the top levels of corals near the MH's centers. And I am one less bulb than you and 6 mos old so maybe 15% drop in output?
I noticed that there seems to be a drop about 8" from the front of my tank of like ~100PAR compared to against the edge of the acrylic.
Must be the way the reflector is shaped to allow the t-5's ....that ledge must make a kind of dead spot w/o the t-5.
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110galreef
New member
Another interesting note....
I have more PAR everywhere with the (2) 250w Phoenix 14k's and the 4 T-5 ~950w total
vs the (2) XM's alone 860w
About 10-15 more PAR bottom
About 75-100 more PAR midlevel
About 100-175 more PAR upper
Can see that the 400w penetrate deeper thatn the 250w & t-5's
I have more PAR everywhere with the (2) 250w Phoenix 14k's and the 4 T-5 ~950w total
vs the (2) XM's alone 860w
About 10-15 more PAR bottom
About 75-100 more PAR midlevel
About 100-175 more PAR upper
Can see that the 400w penetrate deeper thatn the 250w & t-5's
110galreef
New member
One more point. Just tested my 3 week old hamilton 14k 250w SE on HQI. I pretty much had the same or a tad less PAR than the 6 mos old phoenix 14k 250w SE.
I will post a comparison pic. Hamilton defintily bluer too!
I will post a comparison pic. Hamilton defintily bluer too!
mos90
New member
I noticed 30-40 more par with the shield off. Little more heat on the glass tops. 350par at 10" below water center bulb.
I the Phoenix bulbs are not as blue as Hamilton then I definately don't want them. Cause the hamiltons are a touch yellow. Radiums should be perfect. I hope they run fine on my ballasts. Hamilton said they will.
Picture is more blue then in person.
I the Phoenix bulbs are not as blue as Hamilton then I definately don't want them. Cause the hamiltons are a touch yellow. Radiums should be perfect. I hope they run fine on my ballasts. Hamilton said they will.
Picture is more blue then in person.
110galreef
New member
Hamilton is way whiter yellow compared to Phoenix. I would not run the radium on an ebalast. U will under drive them by about 50watts. Have less par. The phoenix will be very similiar, and about $30 cheaper
Bigger differenc in person...Phoenix 14k left/hamy 14k right
Bigger differenc in person...Phoenix 14k left/hamy 14k right
mos90
New member
i think i would like to go with 3-400 radiums. the only problem is the bulbs only last 8 months or so. as to 10 months with the 250w radiums. im not liking my choices for bulbs in the 250w range besides the phoenix.
another option is stick with the 250w radiums on the outsides and just upgrade the ballasts to lumantek adjustable ballasts. then i can run any bulb i want later.
i can just sell the hamilton 250w elec ballasts. they are only a little over a month old.
another option is stick with the 250w radiums on the outsides and just upgrade the ballasts to lumantek adjustable ballasts. then i can run any bulb i want later.
i can just sell the hamilton 250w elec ballasts. they are only a little over a month old.
110galreef
New member
Either I am missing something or you are:
You have same light setup as me.....except smaller tank and 2 250w hamilton 14ks' on ebalast
You want more blue and more PAR.
Get the Phoenix 14k, will run perfect on your ebalast and give you what you want, plus be a $60 bulb and run 12-16mos.
Even if you switch to the lumatek on HQI it will only run the Radium at 295w not the ~330w it is designed to run on a true m80 balast.
You will waste extra money on the radium to only under drive it and have less PAR than the phoenix14k.
Or try the Aqua Star 14.5k. That should have more PAR than the phoenix and run great on an ebalast.
If this doesn't get you what you want. then sell your balast and get the 400w lumatek select a watt and then go with 400w Radiums.
You have same light setup as me.....except smaller tank and 2 250w hamilton 14ks' on ebalast
You want more blue and more PAR.
Get the Phoenix 14k, will run perfect on your ebalast and give you what you want, plus be a $60 bulb and run 12-16mos.
Even if you switch to the lumatek on HQI it will only run the Radium at 295w not the ~330w it is designed to run on a true m80 balast.
You will waste extra money on the radium to only under drive it and have less PAR than the phoenix14k.
Or try the Aqua Star 14.5k. That should have more PAR than the phoenix and run great on an ebalast.
If this doesn't get you what you want. then sell your balast and get the 400w lumatek select a watt and then go with 400w Radiums.
110galreef
New member
I have both the 175w / 250w and the 250w / 400w watt versions of the Lumatek select a watt Ballast. I have tested many different bulbs such as the Phoenix 14K 250w DE and SE. Aqua Medic 250w DE. Ushio 250w 14k and 10k DE. Hamilton 250w 10k DE and 14k SE as well as the XM20k DE. On both ballast the regular 250w settings used around 267 watts while the super lumin or hqi setting was around 295watts. didn't really matter the bulb. It only varied a few watts + or -
If I hooked up my true HQI M80 ballast like my Hamilton HQI or sunlight supply Blue Wave 7 those ballast would draw about 320watts on the bulbs.
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mos90
New member
got it. this is good info.
i have a new radium 250 bulb in the closet. im going to test par on the hamilton ballast and the lumantek(both settings) and compare them to the hamilton 14k. i dont have a killowatt meter but my apex can tell me amps.
i know my hamiltons ballast draw 2.5 amps with the 14k hamilton bulbs.
i have a new radium 250 bulb in the closet. im going to test par on the hamilton ballast and the lumantek(both settings) and compare them to the hamilton 14k. i dont have a killowatt meter but my apex can tell me amps.
i know my hamiltons ballast draw 2.5 amps with the 14k hamilton bulbs.
110galreef
New member
Is this for the select a watt balast?
Also when I ran my 400w XM 20k on the 400w setting it used 430 watts and on the super lumen setting it pulled like 450w.
This link shows the lumatek ebalast on the xm20k at 462w.
110galreef
New member
based on this as well as most everything else I see I think I am going to give the old Aqua connect 14k (Aqua Star 14.5k now) a go next time. That sucker seems to have great PAR and color!
I am glad I did get the XM20k to start as it gives me a good baseline for color as well as a slower jump to a HIGH PAR bulb.
I am glad I did get the XM20k to start as it gives me a good baseline for color as well as a slower jump to a HIGH PAR bulb.
110galreef
New member
I have found that the apex is often off. Sometimes it's dead on, and then sometimes its off. not a lot, but maybe a .5 amp, but that could be a difference of like60w.... Not really the best way to confirm.
You can get the kill a watt at lowes or HD usually for like $20.
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