par meter brand?
- Thread starter Chriskid
- Start date
BubbaBoBobBrain
New member
Apogee is the only one I have ever used. Its the same one the club has. I think the model that has the waterproof sensor is the apogee mq200.
Chriskid
New member
thats the one ive been leaning towards. just wondering if its the better model for the buck.
MADtanks
Stix Anyone?
Just buy the sensor by itself, use a multimeter, and convert the numbers. the sensors are like 150 dollars, and my multimeter i paid like 20 dollars for a craftsman that i have used for i dont know at least 6 years now. Just an idea for saving a few bucks, and having a good sensor.
Chriskid
New member
thats cool, i just looked up both, however how do you convert?acuratly?
MADtanks
Stix Anyone?
Yea so wit the sensor, and a multimeter, you take the mv reading that it outputs and Multiply by 5 to get your PAR Rating.
the sensor for electric light is SQ-120(calibrated for electricl ight)
the sensor for sun light is SQ-110 (calibrated for sunlight)
tha manual states in there that they are all calibrated to exactly 5.00 μmol m-2 s-1 per mV
thus the mv reading(in multimeter) * 5 = μmol m-2 s-1
the sensor for electric light is SQ-120(calibrated for electricl ight)
the sensor for sun light is SQ-110 (calibrated for sunlight)
tha manual states in there that they are all calibrated to exactly 5.00 μmol m-2 s-1 per mV
thus the mv reading(in multimeter) * 5 = μmol m-2 s-1
MADtanks
Stix Anyone?
Well last time i was looking into ordering one, i read a mix feelings of both... some said the sun others said electrical....i mean according to the manual you get a +10% reading with the sun sensor, and -8% reading from electrical... I guess it depends on what you are measuring
CFL would deff be a electrical sensor
Metal Halide the electric sensor gets < 2% reading and sunlight sensor gets 8% high reading
Sunlight - 10% low on electric sensor, and exact reading with sunlight sensor
I hope that helps.
CFL would deff be a electrical sensor
Metal Halide the electric sensor gets < 2% reading and sunlight sensor gets 8% high reading
Sunlight - 10% low on electric sensor, and exact reading with sunlight sensor
I hope that helps.
Chriskid
New member
lol now im cofuzed....lol so MH with CF blues, should go with electrice sencer??or no :hmm2:
BubbaBoBobBrain
New member
That's why when I get the cash I'm buying the whole damn meter, lol. I would screw everything up with just the sensor.
MADtanks
Stix Anyone?
lol it does not matter really man, if you are measuring MH, and using the electric sensor then just add 2% to that final number or if you are using sun sensor subtract 8%.... Really as long as you are int he ball park i never added or subtracted. The number for me is just to make sure there is enough PAR... so if im seeing 500 below 5" of water, I know i can keep everything under the sun lol... at the bottom of the tank, as long as i see 150+ im happy. Now that i recall last time i used the PAR Meter, i used "electric" mode.
Hope that helps.... and really the full rig, will store data for like 90 days or something, and give you the ability to switch between electric/sun calibration. So yea its cool but do i need it na. Either way i would always use electric 2% diff is better than 8 - 10% diff.
Bob, The meter still has two options so you would still need to makea choice
Buy whichever is easier for you for sure but just wanted to present the cost effective option with the Credibility, and quality of the Apogee sensor
Hope that helps.... and really the full rig, will store data for like 90 days or something, and give you the ability to switch between electric/sun calibration. So yea its cool but do i need it na. Either way i would always use electric 2% diff is better than 8 - 10% diff.
Bob, The meter still has two options so you would still need to makea choice
Buy whichever is easier for you for sure but just wanted to present the cost effective option with the Credibility, and quality of the Apogee sensor
Chriskid
New member
thank you very much, that's what i needed. a pro and con. you helped me understand, and it is appreciatedlol it does not matter really man, if you are measuring MH, and using the electric sensor then just add 2% to that final number or if you are using sun sensor subtract 8%.... Really as long as you are int he ball park i never added or subtracted. The number for me is just to make sure there is enough PAR... so if im seeing 500 below 5" of water, I know i can keep everything under the sun lol... at the bottom of the tank, as long as i see 150+ im happy. Now that i recall last time i used the PAR Meter, i used "electric" mode.
Hope that helps.... and really the full rig, will store data for like 90 days or something, and give you the ability to switch between electric/sun calibration. So yea its cool but do i need it na. Either way i would always use electric 2% diff is better than 8 - 10% diff.
Bob, The meter still has two options so you would still need to makea choice
Buy whichever is easier for you for sure but just wanted to present the cost effective option with the Credibility, and quality of the Apogee sensor
