PEPPIE's ODD-BALL BUILD
- Thread starter peppie
- Start date
It will set outside of the tank. I didnt want to try to hide a pump inside of the tank for bottom flow. Maint on a pump in the tank would also be a pain.
I will drill the back wall about 4'' off the bottom and centered in the middle +or- for the return. The intake will be about 6-8'' from the top. I will post some pics of the water/leak/flow test soon. You will get a better feel for it then.
I will drill the back wall about 4'' off the bottom and centered in the middle +or- for the return. The intake will be about 6-8'' from the top. I will post some pics of the water/leak/flow test soon. You will get a better feel for it then.
I decided to brace the top left and righthand side of the tank, it will help hold the corners and also allow me to use powerheads rated for 1/2'' tank thickness. I cut slots in the brace to slip a 3/8'' piece of acrylic thru it to hold the powerhead. One on each front corner.
Cut the teeth for the overflow on the tablesaw and glued in the black out wall between the DT and fuge
I want to keep as much light out of the DT as possible. The light in the fuge will be on at nite. I thought I better cover the corners on this side of the tank. I cut the strips for the corners with bevels on both edges. It gives a more finished look.
All the black acrylic had been sanded with 800 grit to take the gloss off.
One corner in place.
I dont want to hear a waterfall from the return chamber to the DT, so I built a trough that will extend down into the DT water line.
I glued the clip on brackets to the skimmer overflow and added a 2'' half circle to the bottom of it to hold a powerhead. (again that 1/2'' magnet thing)
You can see the placement of the closed loop return for bottom flow
Next up a water leak/flow test.
Cut the teeth for the overflow on the tablesaw and glued in the black out wall between the DT and fuge
I want to keep as much light out of the DT as possible. The light in the fuge will be on at nite. I thought I better cover the corners on this side of the tank. I cut the strips for the corners with bevels on both edges. It gives a more finished look.
All the black acrylic had been sanded with 800 grit to take the gloss off.
One corner in place.
I dont want to hear a waterfall from the return chamber to the DT, so I built a trough that will extend down into the DT water line.
I glued the clip on brackets to the skimmer overflow and added a 2'' half circle to the bottom of it to hold a powerhead. (again that 1/2'' magnet thing)
You can see the placement of the closed loop return for bottom flow
Next up a water leak/flow test.
pico-reefer
New member
very nice build!
Thanks PICO,
I put water in it today. The only leaks were from the closed loop. No surprise there. I went to the store and got all the pieces to run PVC instead of the tubing. That fixed that.
So here are some pics of it working. I am sure some were scratching their heads. The water levels and flow were right on mark. I love it when a plan comes together
Water running into the fuge with no sound.
I will let that run for three day to make sure all is well. In the mean time I will start some woodworking.
I put water in it today. The only leaks were from the closed loop. No surprise there. I went to the store and got all the pieces to run PVC instead of the tubing. That fixed that.
So here are some pics of it working. I am sure some were scratching their heads. The water levels and flow were right on mark. I love it when a plan comes together
Water running into the fuge with no sound.
I will let that run for three day to make sure all is well. In the mean time I will start some woodworking.
I got started by building a mockup of the tank. The face frame is going to appear to be a built in unit. It sits in a corner but runs past the back wall by a couple inches. Its odd, but you will see.
The green panel on the right is one of the walls and the upright acrylic sheet to the left will be the corner of the back wall. Of course the white box is the size of the tank.
I have plenty of African Mahogany to do the face frame, Hood, and reface the current stand. I will start with this board
I can get two pieces of 3/8'' and one at 1/2'' thick by 6+'' if I resaw the board.
Now that the are cut I will run it thru the drumsander. ( I cut the board in half length wise) it is easier to run thru the bandsaw.
There are a couple of glue ups for wider paneles
The green panel on the right is one of the walls and the upright acrylic sheet to the left will be the corner of the back wall. Of course the white box is the size of the tank.
I have plenty of African Mahogany to do the face frame, Hood, and reface the current stand. I will start with this board
I can get two pieces of 3/8'' and one at 1/2'' thick by 6+'' if I resaw the board.
Now that the are cut I will run it thru the drumsander. ( I cut the board in half length wise) it is easier to run thru the bandsaw.
There are a couple of glue ups for wider paneles
A little face frame work today. I used the biscuit joiner to glue the frame together.
A little plane work to clean up some saw marks
The face frame is ready for the card scraper before I glue it together.
I need to get to the back of the tank to service the closed loop pump, and the skimmer. I made a sliding panel that will allow this.
It needs to be trimed to width
Next will be some work on the hood. I am still in the thought process.
A little plane work to clean up some saw marks
The face frame is ready for the card scraper before I glue it together.
I need to get to the back of the tank to service the closed loop pump, and the skimmer. I made a sliding panel that will allow this.
It needs to be trimed to width
Next will be some work on the hood. I am still in the thought process.
More woodworking. I am going to use Quilted Maple for the panel wood. It will be stained with a water based dye,sanded,dyed,sanded,dyed,and final sand this will being out the figure. A clear top coat will finish it up
I like to tape off all glue joints before I glue. It reduces the amount of clean up and sanding
All clamped up
I spent most of the day making thinner,smaller boards out of a large one. I also worked out a profile for some of the hood trim
I needed to work ouut the hood profile and the crown molding angles
I built another fake wall corner, this time I put it on the floor. Now I dont need a ladder to build the hood. lol
The tricky part is yet to come
I like to tape off all glue joints before I glue. It reduces the amount of clean up and sanding
All clamped up
I spent most of the day making thinner,smaller boards out of a large one. I also worked out a profile for some of the hood trim
I needed to work ouut the hood profile and the crown molding angles
I built another fake wall corner, this time I put it on the floor. Now I dont need a ladder to build the hood. lol
The tricky part is yet to come
So needless to say this will not be your typical hood build.
I started by dealing with the fuge section. I want access to it without having to remove the hood. With crown molding going around the top of the hood I cant just hinge the front few inches of the hood. Again no light is to get into the DY from the fuge.
The hole on top is for air flow
open
This top panel will keep light in (it is upside down)
this will let the air out. I will place a fan in the back
The front will have an inset panel made of Q maple. I will be held in place with a slot in the bottom trim and a magnet at the top. I will be able to reach over the top to pop it out, for easy feeding.
I started by dealing with the fuge section. I want access to it without having to remove the hood. With crown molding going around the top of the hood I cant just hinge the front few inches of the hood. Again no light is to get into the DY from the fuge.
The hole on top is for air flow
open
This top panel will keep light in (it is upside down)
this will let the air out. I will place a fan in the back
The front will have an inset panel made of Q maple. I will be held in place with a slot in the bottom trim and a magnet at the top. I will be able to reach over the top to pop it out, for easy feeding.
I am not a cabinet maker by trade. I do how ever like to work wood. I am self taught by the book of hard knocks. I may do things a little different from others, or the norm. I works for me an I am proud to say IT WILL LOOK NICE. And be functional.
Thanks, Stay tuned it is going to get better.
Thanks, Stay tuned it is going to get better.
Huntatyler
New member
I love this build. Interesting cabinet building I must say.
