Pete's 280 log

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cool.... I was thinking of running my two TLF reactors in series, but now I'm questioning that.

by your valve orientations I take it you have the same flow for all of them.... do you have separate feeds for each one just to be able to change media independently without shutting the tohers down?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12614307#post12614307 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RyanBrucks
cool.... I was thinking of running my two TLF reactors in series, but now I'm questioning that.

by your valve orientations I take it you have the same flow for all of them.... do you have separate feeds for each one just to be able to change media independently without shutting the others down?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't run them in series. for the cost of a valve and some tubing its worth it for the extra convenience

I can isolate all three reactors like I did today to remove the reactor manifold or isolate each one just above it for removal and leaving the others running. It's more be chance that they are set about the same as I'll dial in the flow to be just enough to keep the GFO and carbon bubbling (not churning), My guess it's only a few gallons per hour on each reactor.

this picture may help show things

manifoldtextsm.jpg
 
Holy cows that is some space management! Great job and looks like everything can be isolated and taken apart easily w/ unions too! Great job

Lunchbucket
 
I love a clean skimmer. You're doing a great job Pete.

Did you cut out the plywood for the fans yet? I probably have that size holesaw over here, but it could be done with a router as well.

Is the RO/DI system connected to the cold water line? Normally, you can only push water 40 feet so do keep an eye on it since you are pushing almost double the distance.

What's with all these new acronyms? Trying to out do me? :lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12616663#post12616663 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I love a clean skimmer. You're doing a great job Pete.

Did you cut out the plywood for the fans yet? I probably have that size holesaw over here, but it could be done with a router as well.

Is the RO/DI system connected to the cold water line? Normally, you can only push water 40 feet so do keep an eye on it since you are pushing almost double the distance.

What's with all these new acronyms? Trying to out do me? :lol:
Click to expand...
hehe - yep :D


I have not cut the fan holes yet, I need a 4 1/2" diameter hole saw, I could have swore I had one but could not find it. I may need to head your way later in the week so I may want to borrow it if it's okay.

The RO/DI is hooked up to the cold water supply side of the water heater. I was surprised how good a flow I got, I'm sure once it makes it's last turn down, it gets a little help with some siphon action. I used 70' of tubing, there is probably 8-10' on each end but that's still got to be at least 50' distance and it seems to be working fine. I played with the solenoid valve some today but that's as far as I got with finishing up the water supply. Even though I have to keep an eye on it, it's still nice not having to lug water in.
 
I almost wanted to cry cutting off additional dead parts of the corals that survived my botched quarantine.

Here is a rough list of what survived the ordeal:

blue table is about 80%
blue/green table about 90%
the blob is about 75% but looking better then ever (it's really getting a nice purple to it - pic below)
the A. Pulchra about 20%
green slimmer 45% but looks terrible â€"œ may toss the whole thing
both blue tenuis 0% (goners) at least I have a nice frag
the factory (A. Nana) about 5% - I’ll remount the couple pieces this week
the A. Microphthalma, maybe 5% just a couple small pieces. But I have other frags

misccorals5-26blob.jpg


closeupbluetable.jpg
 
Hang in there Pete. In six months you'll be complaining about a lack of space all over again. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12620773#post12620773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Hang in there Pete. In six months you'll be complaining about a lack of space all over again. :)
Click to expand...

ha - true, or at least I hope so

I drilled a bunch of holes yesterday for pegging and mounted about three surviving frags on rocks that I also drilled. I need to pick up some more 3/8" rigid tubing and aquamend as I used up my supply on hand. I must have drilled about 20 holes in that one layered piece of Marco rock and another 8 to 10 on the broken off piece from where "the factory" use to be. I want to remove that larger piece again and drill bout 10-12 holes in it as well as at least two other larger pieces of live rock that are about 12-14" around. I’ll also drill about a dozen or so holes in the two large pieces of shelf rock I got form Marco. I’ll do the ones in the tank in a couple steps as I know I'll get some sponge die off and don't want to overburden my biological filtration. There must have been 20 of the micro brittle stars under the rock I pulled yesterday. I'll post a picture later.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12622155#post12622155 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kar93
Pete, Just curious. In this picture, What is the little black Via-Aqua box?
electricalswitchedoutlets.jpg
Click to expand...

I can't see the picture from work but if it's grey, with a dial on it then it's the heater controller. It should also have a small red LED but it probably isn't on so may not be visable.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12622328#post12622328 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kar93
Yeah, That's the one. I thought it might have been some sort of timer.
Click to expand...

I need to remember to hook up my second heater (it's not like I need it right now). I used to have some other brand heaters and one of them got stuck in the on position so I bought two new ones of another brand. It's a good thing I had them both on my RK2, I only found out when I disconnected the RK2 for something and then wondered why my tank temp crept up a few degrees in the winter. At first I thought it was the house temp and lights, then I noticed the red LED indicator one day and the temp was in the low 80s (or above the set point). I adjusted the dial and it always stayed on so I pulled the heater and bought 2 new ones (I had the other one in the QT tank so I just need to get it set up)

I run 2 300 watt heaters and glad I do, otherwise I may have cooked some stuff before I caught the one going bad.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12613508#post12613508 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdckbr
great idea I hadnt even considered installing my rodi unit in the water heater closet ...
Click to expand...

thanks - I don't know what took so long to decide to put it there, as now it seems like the perfect spot
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12615351#post12615351 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lunchbucket
Holy cows that is some space management! Great job and looks like everything can be isolated and taken apart easily w/ unions too! Great job

Lunchbucket
Click to expand...

thanks - it seems space is always at a premium, so I have stuffed stacked in as you can see on top of the fuge. I also have my chiller elevated over my main pump. And I wanted all piping removable, for the "just in case" situations. Plus I read about internal pipe buildup and figured I'd need to remove the stuff every other year or so just to clean out the pipes. To bad we can't use draino
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12628189#post12628189 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Aztlan_LA
Have you thought about adding some stainless hose clamps to the vinyl tubing above?
Click to expand...

I used to have them on a different set up. What now is made up of 1/2" PVC use to be all tubing with SS clamps. To make removal easier I changed the clamps to the plastic ones, but even those were a pain to deal with, and I had minor leaks. Finally, I got so frustrated with the thing, I replaced the entire tubing manifold with the 1/2" PVC. I probably should put clamps back on the top connections as I don't pull the tubing. But I'll probably remain clamp-less on the bottom connections for the following reasons:

The reactors are over the sump, so leaks should stay internal to the system.

Flow is pretty slow so spray type leaks are unlikely

Even if a reactor came loose water stays in the system but with some splashing.

I have a water leak detector install in my stand

Ease of change-out.

thanks for asking - you reminded me I need to put them on the top connections.
 
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