mandelbrot
New member
In all honesty, most of you will probably skip over this post simply because of the subject line. I wouldn't blame you, really... everyone is highly supportive of UA and, to a lesser degree, PAW.
Still, I can't help but to post.
I've recently assumed the department management position here at Petland. For most people, this would engage thoughts in the likes of "What sort of bad karma have you gained, man?". It has been a... rather interesting challenge trying to bring both the fresh and salt water systems up to some sort of 'par'. (The fresh is almost there, the salt, sadly, is not).
Mind you, I'm not pushing for you to come by and see things or advertising for the store. Rather, I've come to the ends of my own personal experiences and book/web-based knowledge in trying to battle the cyanobacter flood these systems are quite capable of producing.
Obviously, the quick-fix methods (such as erytro-dosing) did not accomplish much. Nor did numerous water changes, alkalinity adjustments (it works against some algae types...I thought I'd try it...eh) or "cleaners" with very little else to consume (yes, I went with the theory that some hermits will eat cyano. They do. Very small quantities. Go figure.
).
I've read some of the past threads concerning Petland and it seems that there are some with a willingness to help, if only to prevent the needless deaths of marine species. Some who have purchased from me or talked with me in the past (those of you who have dealt with PAW for a few years...I managed the department there for about 2 years) know that I am rather open to suggestions and willing to try new things, no matter how theoretical they may be.
If you read through past Petland threads, you'll come across posts from others who have worked here and know some of the problems I might have trying to use more costly or time-consuming methods of control (such as tearing the systems down and starting from scratch). What I would appreciate would be any ideas that I'm either over-looking or over-thinking. It's only one step in the many required to get these tanks back on track, but it's a step, nonetheless.
Any advice would be appreciated and I do thank you, in advance, for taking the time to read this post.
-Matt
P.S. Chris, you owe me for sending more than a few people in the direction of Ultimate
Still, I can't help but to post.
I've recently assumed the department management position here at Petland. For most people, this would engage thoughts in the likes of "What sort of bad karma have you gained, man?". It has been a... rather interesting challenge trying to bring both the fresh and salt water systems up to some sort of 'par'. (The fresh is almost there, the salt, sadly, is not).
Mind you, I'm not pushing for you to come by and see things or advertising for the store. Rather, I've come to the ends of my own personal experiences and book/web-based knowledge in trying to battle the cyanobacter flood these systems are quite capable of producing.
Obviously, the quick-fix methods (such as erytro-dosing) did not accomplish much. Nor did numerous water changes, alkalinity adjustments (it works against some algae types...I thought I'd try it...eh) or "cleaners" with very little else to consume (yes, I went with the theory that some hermits will eat cyano. They do. Very small quantities. Go figure.

I've read some of the past threads concerning Petland and it seems that there are some with a willingness to help, if only to prevent the needless deaths of marine species. Some who have purchased from me or talked with me in the past (those of you who have dealt with PAW for a few years...I managed the department there for about 2 years) know that I am rather open to suggestions and willing to try new things, no matter how theoretical they may be.
If you read through past Petland threads, you'll come across posts from others who have worked here and know some of the problems I might have trying to use more costly or time-consuming methods of control (such as tearing the systems down and starting from scratch). What I would appreciate would be any ideas that I'm either over-looking or over-thinking. It's only one step in the many required to get these tanks back on track, but it's a step, nonetheless.
Any advice would be appreciated and I do thank you, in advance, for taking the time to read this post.
-Matt
P.S. Chris, you owe me for sending more than a few people in the direction of Ultimate
