pH problems

DMBillies

Active member
I wanted to post this as something for everyone to think about and because I need some ideas/solutions.

I've always had issues keeping my pH up regardless of the concentration of Ca/Alk/Mag in my tank. It's usually hovered around 8.0 using regular pH kits almost exclusively testing in the evening and usually while the lights were still on or shortly after they went out. Although slightly low, this never really bothered me and I never searched very hard for the source of the "problem" or solutions to it.

Now that I've got my ACjr. running with the pH probe I'm able to see my pH at various times throughout the day and I'm much more concerned with what I'm seeing.

My pH still gets up to about 7.9-8.1 during the day, but it is dropping to 7.5-7.6 in the few hours after lights out and only starts to steadily climb back up once the lights come back on. It takes nearly all day for the pH to climb back up. I've verified my probe readings multiple times with test kits and the probe readings are always within .1 of the test kit, so even if the probe is reading wrong, it isn't really far off.

What this means is that my 8.0 readings were taken when my pH was usually at its absolute peak and that my tank is sitting at a much lower pH throughout the majority of a 24hr. period.

I have also been adding some kalk over the past couple of days via a topoff pump/reactor and noticed it hasn't been doing much for the pH. Because I'm impatient (and probably stupid) I started adding small amounts of saturated kalk water directly to the tank throughout the day to try to get the pH up in hopes that the reactor would then maintain the pH at a higher level. Doing this would drive the pH up a bit for an hour or two but then the tank would return to a level similar to what I would expect for the time of day.

Late tonight, perplexed, somewhat bored, and not tired, I tested the tank readings. Ca was 430, Alk was 3.6, Mg was 1380, and pH was 7.5. So, all of my readings aside from pH were well within a recommended range. I then tried a few things. First, I stole a cup of water from our nano to see what the pH was and found the same low reading of about 7.5. Then, I took a cup of water out of my 270 sump and stirred it up really hard in the room for about a minute. The probe reading actually dropped by .03. Then, I took the cup outside and stirred for another minute. My probe reading jumped up by .20 :eek1:

So, it looks like my pH problems are being largely caused by higher Co2 levels in the air in my house and so aerating more with house air isn't going to do any good. Although I'm sure everyone has this problem to some extent, I'm wondering if this is particularly severe and what the easiest steps for addressing the problem are? If I can't get my tank to maintain a higher pH using kalk even during the day because the Co2 in the air is driving my pH down, then I guess the only solution to my problem is pulling air in from outside via the skimmer tube or air pump? If it wasn't so damn hot out I would open all of the windows for a day or two and see what happens to the pH, but that would most certainly create temp problems (for the tank and me).

In hind sight, it seems likely that low pH has caused some of my tanks to be particularly prone to algae problems... which is certainly something I've struggled with from time to time.

Any thoughts/ideas/solutions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Yeah -- I was going to say that it is probably excess CO2 in the house. I know you guys keep it cool in there and it probably means the place is sealed pretty tightly so outside air has trouble getting in.

One way you could try to bring up the CO2 in the tank is run the skimmer air tube outside. Make sure it has carbon in line and is in a place where bug spray, etc, will not contaminate the air. That would bubble outside air into the tank and may help raise the pH. Also, you could try the same with an air pump that just bubbles in the sump. Another option is to crack a window in the living room and see if that helps.
 
Brian, I have the same problem. and have had the same thoughts as you put forth up there. I have installed a window air conditioner to aid in tank cooling and fresh air. It did help with cooling, but ph is still very low at night.

After talking with Wayne, he said he puts pickling lime in his top off water to aid the the ph balance for his tanks, so I'm going to pick up some today and start with that and see what that does over the next week. It is really strange that Wayne and I had this very conversation just last night, and then this morning you have this post:)

Anyway, I will let you know how that works out for me and BTW, my daytime reading were cal 500, alk (high normal) mag 1100 and ph 8.2, temp 81.2.

Norman
 
Brian, I use a kalc reactor on a reefkeeper two using the ph control function. I'm not sure how it works on the ACjr. but it probably has the option. Kick on at desired setpoint and kick off at desired setpoint. If your ph peaks at 8.0 then start out turning on at 7.9 and off at 8.0. I started out using an aqua medic 3000 dosing pump but I have since switched to a power head that is choked down with a ball valve to just a dribble. Yes, the ball valve does stop up about once every two weeks but one slight wiggle and its running again. As long as my dkh is in the 10 to 11 range I can match my evaporation rate by setting up the ph range between 8.25 and 8.3. We went to Nasau earlier this year and I left this setup for a week with no problems. sump level right where I left it, six gallons of kalc gone! Your osmolator would just be a backup in this scenario. If it works out like mine you will eventually be able to raise your range up to 8.1 then 8.2 but it will take some time.
 
crumbletop, I had read about pulling the air to the skimmer from outside and was going to try it today to see what it did. The problem is, I'm not sure how I would set it up to do that permanently.

Highside, I could easily set-up something to turn on/off with the pH control of the ACjr. Assuming I'm reading your post correctly though, my concern is that I would have to "dose" far more kalk than my evaporation rate is (at least that is what appears to be the issue after running a kalk reactor on my top off). I assume your kalk reactor is really mixing up the stuff and dosing a "slurry" that is laden with lime to the point that it can no longer dissolve in there? I'd like to hear a little bit more about what you're doing.
 
My system is evaporating about 7 gallons a week right now. At that rate I can use just limewater, no slurry. Assuming I leave the kalk off for a week (longest so far) it drops down to about 7.9 at night and it might go lower if I went longer without kalk. I just start out low like on at 8.0 off at 8.05 and gradually ease it up over a few days until I find a balance between evaporation and Kalk addition. Ususlly mine stays between 8.25 and 8.3 all the time. Are you using chaeto in a refugium? I have also had good luck lighting my refugium about 20 hrs. a day just turning them off about 4 hrs. right in the middle of the light cycle. I have not run a refugium for about 4 months now and the kalk dosing is still working. I want to get a refugium going on this tank at some point but I have been really busy with work so it may be a winter project.
 
Brian,

I have a similar problem (almost identical ranges on pH), but have been solving it with kalk additions. Since you can't oversaturate top off water with pickling lime, I dump a lot of it into my top off water and let it settle out (mixing every once in a while to make sure the water is completely saturated). This has been keeping my levels above 8.0 for the most part. I evaporate a lot of water, though, so I am constantly getting a little shot of kalkwasser into each of the systems fed by my top off. The problem with doing what I mention (dumping a ton of pickling lime in the top off bucket) is that when the top off runs low, the pH spikes because it is putting kalk into the system rather than kalkwasser. It comes back down over the course of a day and settles out. The solution to that is me being more on top of the top off bucket;). I use a 40 gallon rubbermaid tub and refill it every three days, so I also go through a lot of pickling lime.

RDP will help, too (as Highside mentions above), if you aren't already doing it.

Since excess CO2 in the house could be causing it, too, maybe try airing out the house once a week or so. I know it's hot, but some fresh air pulled through with an attic fan or something might help exchange. I'd do it at night, though, since it is so hot (still in the mid 80's here at 3 oclock in the morning).
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I tried running a hose to my skimmer out the window last night and this morning the pH was at 7.7, so just running my skimmer on that for about 12 hours over night brought the lower extent of my pH swing up .2. I'll keep tinkering...

Gary- RDP = reverse daylight period. I'm not doing that at the moment because I run my sump light 24/7. I have thought about doing that and I have the timer to do it (out of outlets on my ACjr. unless someone has a DC4 they want to sell dirt cheap), but I just haven't gotten around to it. I've heard it doesn't do a whole lot unless you have a really big fuge (which I don't), but I also know in this hobby that the little things all add up to a big thing.
 
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Here's an interesting thread on RDP vs. 24/7 with no easy answers. I've read the arguments before and it basically seems like it can't hurt to try RDP too.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2993&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

My cheato growth has never been astounding in any of my tanks (regardless of light cycle), but at least higher order plants seem to benefit from a dark cycle, so it probably can't hurt.

I think one culprit for my less then stellar cheato growth is that there is not enough flow through the cheato compartment, but I'm not keen on adding another pump to my set-up to keep it tumbling (more heat) so I've been trying unsuccessfully to come up with other solutions that won't also create microbubble problems.

And another thought (note: I'm not a biologist, so this is really just guessing based on what I know about plants... in other words, this is pure speculation and shouldn't be taken as truth...). I'd love for someone to point me to something I could read about this though, so please do set me straight...

I generally would expect all types of plants to grow better in a low pH tank because there is more CO2 available. I don't know anything about the CO2 and nutrient uptake of different kinds of algae, but it seems possible that differences in the availability of those two "fuels" might favor the growth of one type of algae over another. For example, if micro algae are more limited by the availability of C02 than cheato is, then as pH rises cheato would start to be able to absorb more of the tanks nutrients?

Low pH has probably been a real chronic problem for me that I'm just now getting a real good sense of, but as I think about all of the possible ramifications of it (e.g., coral skeleton growth, algae growth, fish health, etc.), I start to get warm spit (i.e., that feeling you get in your mouth right before you upchuck).
 
It's going...

What I have now is not going to work in the long run.

I have a serious problem that no one seems to be able to answer. I'm running an osmolator and the check valve is way too restricting. It cuts the output to a trickle. This has a couple of effects: 1) Makes the pump so loud I can't hear the TV when it is running, 2) it doesn't stir the kalk at all, 3) with a slower flow it runs for a lot longer, and 4) with a slower flow it doesn't "dose" any extra at all when it runs, so the pump runs every 5 minutes and will short cycle sometimes in the middle of dosing (this can't be good for the pump and with the noise it makes, I'm going insane).

I do have an extra top-off assembly that I could use with a mag that would force plenty of water through and that I can use to set-up the pH dosing, but it will be more complicated and I just haven't had the time to try it. I am slightly worried that my kalk output will not be enough to keep the pH up and that pump will be continuously trying to run...making the osmolator a very expensive and worthless piece of equipment for that tank unless I can find a check valve with low head pressure.

I've been adding kalk by hand to try to keep the pH up a little. I was going to do a quick fix of lifting my topoff bucket up, placing the reactor below the level of the topoff bucket, and removing the check valve altogether until I can find time to take this on a little more seriously. That was until my SW reservoir sprung a leak (I'm still just glad I decided to stay home yesterday, or 5 gallons would have been 35 gallons by the time I got back).

Then I had planned on doing it tonight, but I came into some free Titans pre-season tickets :), so I guess I'll have to get it Saturday.
 
Sounds like a messed up osmolator pump. It can push against a fair amount of head pressure. Did you get your setup new or used?
 
I got it used, but I've replaced the pump before. I also have a replacement on hand, but frankly, I can tell quite clearly that the check valve has quite a lot of resistance. Before running the kalk reactor I was pumping the water up 6' to the top of my overflow. When I installed it, I lowered the output to my sump so that I could get as much flow out of it as possible... and it's a trickle now. If I take the check valve out, it returns to normal.

It could be the pump I guess, but if I'm going through the trouble of replacing that, I'll just go with the ACjr. controlled system and set-up my other ATO at the same time.
 
I also have a method of doing the tubing that may eliminate the practical need for a check valve. I'll try and describe it though words will be tough.

I have about a 6-10' line of tubing running from the pump to the kalk reactor. I also have a coil of RO/DI tubing running from the kalk reactor to the sump that is about maybe 6' long or so. I put a piece of pvc pipe into the sump about an inch below the water extending up toward the top of my stand so that the level of the top of the pipe was above the topoff reservoir "full" level. I then attached the output tubing from the kalk reactor to the top of the pipe making sure a loop of tubing was up there as well. What this does is it means that when the pump fires it will push kalkwasser through the system into the sump and will not allow back siphon when the pump cuts off. Also, when the pump cuts off the maximum amount of water that could be pushed backwards through the circuit is only about 1 or 2 cc's because the water will only go back down through the loop of RO/DI tubing until it reaches the level of the top of the water in the topoff reservoir.

I don't know if that makes any sense or not -- it is hard to explain for sure. Basically I wanted to eliminate the possibility of back-siphon from the sump, or forward siphon to the sump. I also wanted to minimize the amount of backflow of kalkwasser should the check valve fail. I honestly don't think the check valve is really needed in this type of setup.
 
You can always mix up 10 gallons of kalkwasser in a trash can and let the controller turn on a powerhead to pump it in. Just choke down the powerhead with a small ball valve then mix up more when the can is empty.
 
Jack- I think your set-up sounds about right and it does seem the check valve would be unnecessary. I had in my head that the water would continue to siphon back out of the reactor when it shut off, but thinking about it now, as long as I put a piece of tubing on the output side of the reactor that is lower than the lowest level of the water in the topoff bucket, the water will not continue to back siphon through the reactor... so the 10' (probably overkill) lead-up on the input side should easily be able to hold that volume and not have mixed up water get back to the topoff bucket. For whatever reason, I was thinking the water would continue to back siphon out of the reactor... but that is all wrong.

The pH controlled reactor still sounds like a good idea, so I may just do that... and I already have a good plan for adding a stir pump to the reactor if it comes to that... which I think it will if I am going to try to pH control it. As long as I do intelligently, if the effluent become less kalk saturated, it will just pump more water through it that way. If the water is super saturated, then it will run less that way and more through a regular topoff loop. However, this certainly is a departure from the KISS principle.
 
Brian -- you actually want to have the tubing outlet from the kalk reactor be a little above the highest level of water in the reservoir -- otherwise you'll get a forward siphon. You want to protect against both. The outlet above the reservoir level promotes a back siphon, but a loop of tubing at the outlet protects against this by only draining a few cc's back before the level equalizes.
 
Jack - Yeah, I've got you on that. I tried this out last night (easy to do in 5 minutes or less) and it seem to be working just fine. That said, my output is only slightly higher than my reservoir level, so I will be adding PVC as you have... which will allow my to raise the output farther AND prevent splashing water falling into the sump which I already have a little bit of.
 
yeah actually my skimmer is feed from a luft pump under my mobile home so this along with the air going threw my ozone prevents in home ph drop. on ye bad side i have a 1/4 diamter hole in my floor. but thats not big at all
 
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