Phosphate removal

So I'm curious as to whether you guys have altered your feeding in consideration of phosphates??? I'm rehabbing a Genicanthus and have had a cyano outbreak with the heavy feeding... I'm not really wanting to cut back on the amount I feed, am open to suggestion as to different food products...
 
GFO

When there's phosphate in the water, I've always seen GFO take it out. I think some people just get alot of phosphate and don't replace the GFO when it's saturated.
 
Originally Posted by Randy Holmes-Farley:

"FWIW, slowing flow down isn't necessarily useful, even if it does appear to lower the effluent phosphate more."

"FWIW, I do not think that anyone needs to chase after phosphate levels in 0 ppm TDS water because either 0.09 or 0.02 ppm phosphate in that water (assuming either is accurate) is not significant relative to the phosphate most people feed in foods."

Dude! I am recording insights such as these on a vellum scroll entitled Canticles of Randy to preserve your wisdom for post-apocalyptic reef aquarists. But frankly it’s not going well as the ball point pen I’m using tends to smear on the calf skin and I’m not much good at the marginalia.
 
I never had luck with GFO or the BRS reactors. Tried it for a month and changed out the media three times to be sure I wasn't overloading it with phosphates. Never saw a change. I would say either use a different reactor or try bio pellets. My LFS started using bio pellets and has nothing but luck. Went from cleaning algae from his display twice a day to not having to clean algae at all in just two weeks. His nitrates have also been 0. Best part of all if you never have to take the media out, just dump more in every 3-6 months when it gets low.
 
So I'm curious as to whether you guys have altered your feeding in consideration of phosphates??? I'm rehabbing a Genicanthus and have had a cyano outbreak with the heavy feeding... I'm not really wanting to cut back on the amount I feed, am open to suggestion as to different food products...

I'm not sure who you are asking, but I use many nutrient export methods at once. I use GFO, GAC, skimming, organic carbon dosing (vinegar), and three large refugia filled with live rock and topped with macroalgae. :)
 
I'm not sure who you are asking, but I use many nutrient export methods at once. I use GFO, GAC, skimming, organic carbon dosing (vinegar), and three large refugia filled with live rock and topped with macroalgae. :)

I was just throwing it out there to the Chemistry Forum regulars. ;) I run GFO, GAC, and do 80 mL vinegar, 15 mL vodka in a 300+ gallon system.

Perhaps I need to increase the amount of GFO or replacement frequency. Is there a way to tell if your GFO is depleted besides watching Cyano grow in my display? My darn Hanna Phosphate checker still shows .03 when I test every week.

The original question was more if you have altered what you feed for Phosphates? Perhaps it is time for me to give up the convenience of Flake and Pellets and start going more grocery store seafood section.
 
What's wrong with the angel fish?
I'd use more export methods :amounts of media (gfo, gac, etc) refugia, organic carbon and keep a healthy feeding level. I feed 2plus ozs per day of mixed frozen food( brine, mysis, bloodworm, cyclopeeze)with a little spirulina, Prime Reed Flake and nori. er is no yano or nuianc algae issue. The Genicanthus mlanospilos in my system has been fat and happy with that mix for over 5 years.
 
I bought a Bellus pair. The male came in looking like a skeleton. I was a touch miffed when I got him in the tank and saw his condition. Progress has been gradual. The female is fat as can be. At least I paid a good price for them considering. You know what they say about deals that are too good to be true.

But I don't want to derail the thread. Perhaps I'll add a refugium with some chaeto. I used to run one, but took it off line when I moved from TN.
 
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