photo newb question
- Thread starter 9thwonder
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Hookup
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Books are good to learn to take pictures...
Understanding Exposure
Learning to See Creatively
Both by the same author. Brian Peterson I believe.
The camera you are looking at can use cannons best lenses, so you won't lose investment in glass if you found your ability exceeded that mold camera.
Understanding Exposure
Learning to See Creatively
Both by the same author. Brian Peterson I believe.
The camera you are looking at can use cannons best lenses, so you won't lose investment in glass if you found your ability exceeded that mold camera.
Foxface210
New member
I have the same model... A lot of flexibility. Really understanding how the camera works (features/functions) and controlling things like exposure are a hobby all by themselves. Taking pictures of things underwater in imitation lighting (if that's your main intent) can be challenging.
I will say that the Nikon lenses tend to be cheaper because the image stability is part of the camera instead of part of the lens. (That's my understanding anyways) Knowing this, I still chose a Canon...
I will say that the Nikon lenses tend to be cheaper because the image stability is part of the camera instead of part of the lens. (That's my understanding anyways) Knowing this, I still chose a Canon...
dendronepthya
Premium Member
Neither Nikon nor Canon have image stabilized DSLR bodies. The only companies I am aware of that do are Olympus and Sony. Nikon lenses that are comparable to Canon lenses are actually a little more expensive by a few hundred dollars.
To answer the OP's question though, photography takes a bit of learning and I have always said it is best to learn on the cheapest thing you can find. If you can find an old Digital Rebel for about $200, that's probably what I would buy. Invest long term on lenses and go with the least expensive body until you figure out what your needs really are then upgrade.
Foxface210
New member
Interesting... Of course I was told this by the Nikon rep at the store... that should have been my first clue.
Anyways- As it relates to lenses. Do yourself a favor (OP) and save up for the lenses with image stabilization. They are a bit more expensive than ones without but worth it. (Learned that the hard way too)
Foxface210
New member
Not to hijack the OP's thread but do you find this to be true even at high shutter speeds? I haven't had a problem with that at all. I should add that I'm not a pro photographer either. I've caught my fair share of good shots but I've never taken any classes or anything... just years of trial and error with a camera and an aquarium.
Back to the OP's question- If you're new to photography in general, there are some decent point and shoots that you can control shutter speed and white balance with that are about half the price of a good DSLR. I'm not trying to persuade you to not buy a nice camera from the get go... just depends on your budget, objectives and desire to take up photography as a second hobby versus wanting some solid shots of family/landscapes/aquariums.
Recty
New member
That's what JH is getting at, with the high shutter speeds needed for photographing moving fish, you dont need image stabilization. IS is for when you need a slow shutter speed and it cuts down photographer/camera shake, which isnt needed when you're using a nice high shutter speed.
With that said, I still try to buy lenses with IS because even though you may want to take fish pictures, you'll end up photographing a LOT of other subjects.
Foxface210
New member
Exactly... I take shots of the kid's sports and made the mistake of buying a lens without IS. Big mistake.
I understand the IS with High Shutter speeds but I haven't found it to be a problem when taking pictures of my tanks. 'Blurry fish'.
I guess the question I'm asking is... would the pics be better (aquarium) if taken without IS. Most lenses allow you to turn off IS anyways, right?
Paul_TheOctopus
New member
Canon EOS Rebel T1 is an excellent choice for beginner. Just set it to Auto mode and fire away. Once you have a good grip on exposure and shutter speed, then you can start to explore in other modes.
There is nothing about IS that makes it more difficult to take aquarium photos; i.e. there isn't a down side.
That said, some of the older versions can't detect when you're on a tripod. Generally speaking, you should turn off IS is you're shooting using a camera support.
That said, some of the older versions can't detect when you're on a tripod. Generally speaking, you should turn off IS is you're shooting using a camera support.
Doug,
I think I understand what you are saying - using IS isn't going to give you a WORSE shot -all else being equal....but what I'm saying is that using an IS lens SPECIFICALLY so that you can shoot your tank at slower shutter speeds has a problem; you'll get a stable image of non-moving portions of the shot - but a fish swimming through the tank will be blurry, unless the shutter speed is fast enough, and then you don't need IS anyway.
Same thing with a sports example - say you're shooting a soccer game at dusk in auto mode and the camera is calling for f3 at 1/15th of a second. IS will allow for using that slow of a shutter so you can get the proper exposure in the failing light, but the players on the field are moving, and they'll be motion-blurred. Now - trying the same shot without IS, and everything will be blurred due to camera shake.
Jay
I think I understand what you are saying - using IS isn't going to give you a WORSE shot -all else being equal....but what I'm saying is that using an IS lens SPECIFICALLY so that you can shoot your tank at slower shutter speeds has a problem; you'll get a stable image of non-moving portions of the shot - but a fish swimming through the tank will be blurry, unless the shutter speed is fast enough, and then you don't need IS anyway.
Same thing with a sports example - say you're shooting a soccer game at dusk in auto mode and the camera is calling for f3 at 1/15th of a second. IS will allow for using that slow of a shutter so you can get the proper exposure in the failing light, but the players on the field are moving, and they'll be motion-blurred. Now - trying the same shot without IS, and everything will be blurred due to camera shake.
Jay
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Any of the Canon or Nikon SLRs released in the past few years are very good cameras. If you're interested in Canon, I'd play around with the D50 as well. I know it's a more expensive camera, but if you like the feel of it better than the T1i, you could buy a used 40D or even 30D for much cheaper. Both are very similar cameras. They don't have video, however, if that's important to you. I just find that the D40, D50, etc. are much easier to use than the Rebel series. The thumbwheel in back is great for either changing aperture if you're shooting in manual mode or dialing in Exposure Compensation (I know that word's probably foreign to you, but it can be a very helpful tool for getting correct exposures). The little hat controller (I don't think that's what it's actually called) is also very nice for selecting autofocus points on the fly. Either camera is very good to learn the basics of photography, though.
But even though I'm a Canon guy, I'd remiss if I didn't advise you to also try out the Nikons. They're excellent cameras with some first class lenses. Canon does some things a little better than Nikon, and Nikon does some things a little better than Canon, but for the most part, it's a personal preference. As was alluded to, however, if you get serious about photography, you'll end up spending far more on lenses than on the camera body, and the lense mounts for each camera are different. Sony cameras also seem to be gaining some popularity, and I hear Sigma is starting to make digital SLRs, so definitely don't limit your options.
But even though I'm a Canon guy, I'd remiss if I didn't advise you to also try out the Nikons. They're excellent cameras with some first class lenses. Canon does some things a little better than Nikon, and Nikon does some things a little better than Canon, but for the most part, it's a personal preference. As was alluded to, however, if you get serious about photography, you'll end up spending far more on lenses than on the camera body, and the lense mounts for each camera are different. Sony cameras also seem to be gaining some popularity, and I hear Sigma is starting to make digital SLRs, so definitely don't limit your options.
dendronepthya
Premium Member
If you are worried about not being able to take pictures of fast moving subjects in relatively low light, there are only three things I am aware of that can help (none of which is image stabilization).
1. Flash. Don't have enough light? Bring your own. The downside for me is, I don't really know how to use one very well, and often the shots come out looking rather harsh.
2. "Faster" Lens. A lens with a bigger aperture will allow in a lot more light so it doesn't need as long of an exposure. If you had for example an 85mm f/1.2L, you can take some hand-held shots in pretty dark rooms.
3. High ISO Sensor. Better cameras tend to have better sensors that can shoot at high ISO. ISO is for lack of a better description the light sensitivity of the sensor. If you turn it up, your sensor becomes more sensitive, at the cost of noise and loss of dynamics. It's like trying to listen to a radio station that isn't coming in very well by turning up the volume. You hear more, but you hear more static too. A better sensor is like a better antenna that allows you to turn up the volume without as much static.
1. Flash. Don't have enough light? Bring your own. The downside for me is, I don't really know how to use one very well, and often the shots come out looking rather harsh.
2. "Faster" Lens. A lens with a bigger aperture will allow in a lot more light so it doesn't need as long of an exposure. If you had for example an 85mm f/1.2L, you can take some hand-held shots in pretty dark rooms.
3. High ISO Sensor. Better cameras tend to have better sensors that can shoot at high ISO. ISO is for lack of a better description the light sensitivity of the sensor. If you turn it up, your sensor becomes more sensitive, at the cost of noise and loss of dynamics. It's like trying to listen to a radio station that isn't coming in very well by turning up the volume. You hear more, but you hear more static too. A better sensor is like a better antenna that allows you to turn up the volume without as much static.
The secret to using flash for aquarium photography is to get the flash off the camera. Depending on the flash you're using, there are many ways to do this, and it generally doesn't have to be very expensive at all. Once you've done this, try shooting from the top down or in through the side. . .or preferably use two flashes and do a bit of both, with the side flash acting as fill. Then, when you want to get a little fancier, instead of shooting straight down, flash up into a reflector and have that disperse the light downward. Those nice big reflectors you bought for your lights actually work quite well. I didn't know what I was missing before I started using flash. . .especially for fish.
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