Yea I don't have anywhere for a qt atm. Was just leaving fallow for bacteria reasons more than for the ich. Sounded like most ppl said to let it sit and recycle.
I agree with getting a refractometer. When I first startd I used a float sytle hydrometer to get my SG where I needed it. then my girlfriend bought me a refractometer for my birthday. I calibrated the refrac and tested my salinity. hydrometer said 1.026 and the refract said 1.034... it explained why I was having a difficult time adding new fish and corals.
also get a thermometer. water temp effects the tanks salinity.
Found that water was between 81 and 83 this weekend. Heater was set at 77. I adjusted it to see if I could bring it down but I'm sure having it that high didn't help matters.
Ok. Ty. I turned my heater down and temp has come down to 80. Not sure where the heat source is coming from. My thought is is the stock hood and lighting.
I added 25 lbs of rock today so have a little under 40 lbs in there now. Also got the DI unit and am slowly changing water with 0 TDS. Ordered a refractometer that should come sine time next week.
I've read both ways on protein skimming and seems most ppl say it's not necessary for a small tank life mine but I'm wondering if the aeration it provides is worth having one in there?
Need advice. I'm going to add both in time but funds only allow for one purchase right now. Should I get ato or skimmer? Will be doing the jbj ato and the tunze 9004 is the plan.
So i got my refractometer. Salinity was actually 1.027. I will bring it down to 1.026. Also ordered the jbj ato for the tank and led's. I can't keep the temp under 81 so im hoping changing to leds will help with temp issues. I think my heater is out of walk so I'll look into that next
Well..... unfortunately I think I need to check out of the salt water game. I have a Biocube 29 and have done everything I can think of and for the life of me can't keep any coral alive. Well That's not true... I have a paly that one polyp opens each day. My lawnmower blenny and damsel are fine. I've thrown everything I can think of at it and even my zoas don't open.
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5-10 typically closer to 5
Salinity 1.026 refractometer
Phosphate 0
Temp 78
Tank is going on 6 months old. I've prob lost almost $200 worth of coral. If I could determine why, it wouldn't be a big deal because I could fix it but every suggestion I've reveived I've looked into and tried to negate with no luck.
I use RODI with tds of 0. Tunze 9001 protein skimmer and LED lighting. Wp10 on WaveMaker and another small powerhead for flow.
Run chemipure elite and purigen in a rack in the back. I feel my biocube is over the top when compared to others and I still can't even get zoas to open.
So............. my question is.....any suggestions to get this thing on track or............ I'd like to convert this to a cichlid tank. If I were to do that what cichlids could I do if any? I'm not interested in tetras or other freshwater fish. Money isn't an issue for the conversion. I'll spend whatever I need to (I have a ton locked up on the tried reef to no luck) I just want a healthy and thriving tank.
Please give me a suggestion before I start a for sale thread......
What is your alkalinity? In order to keep coral happy and thriving you need to monitor alk and keep it as stable as possible from rising or falling. You should be able to maintain it with regular water changes but depending on what the level is in your tank and your newly mixed salt water you may have big swings because of the difference which is bad If it is a lot. Lighting is also a big part in keeping coral happy. To much light you can burn them and not enough they wither away. I would stop running the chemipure elite and purigen and maintain your nitrate with water changes. Not sure what you are using for lights but moving them up or down may help. Just my suggestions.
If you calibrated your refractometer with ro/di, it could still be way off. you should be using something like this to calibrate.... http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aqua-craft-refractometer-calibration-fluid.html
if you did use calibration fluid then we must still be missing something big that you are doing wrong cause it shouldn't be this tough to keep corals alive...
It was calibrated with calibration fluid. I agree with you it shouldn't be this tough. I've never had issues like this in bigger tanks. I was expecting the smaller one to be tough but not this tough. On that note.... I think I'm going to switch this to a FOWLR. Can't figure the coral thing out so I'll take a step back.
I've removed the chemipure and purigen and media rack. Running the protein skimmer and macro in the display. Anything I should do specifically for FOWLR success?
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