Please helt - LR covered in white overnite
- Thread starter sergiumd
- Start date
hdtran
New member
What's your current temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate?
I'd say just turkey baste your rock and put a sponge filter on your powerheads to pick up big floating debris.
You want the stuff that's going to die to die, but you don't want it to kill the stuff that's going to survive... (Yes, I know that this sounds awfully vague, but that's the theory...)
When you do a water change, be sure that your new water is equilbrated to the same temperature as the old. Many folks don't bother matching temperatures, but I believe that it is important to do so when you're changing 10% (or more) of the water.
If you feel you are having high ammonia levels, don't pussyfoot with a 10% water change. Do one as large (e.g. 25 to 50%) as you can with your equipment.
What's a 300 cascade filter? Also, I'd personally add 1 more powerhead (to have 3 running in a 55g, not 2).
I'd say just turkey baste your rock and put a sponge filter on your powerheads to pick up big floating debris.
You want the stuff that's going to die to die, but you don't want it to kill the stuff that's going to survive... (Yes, I know that this sounds awfully vague, but that's the theory...)
When you do a water change, be sure that your new water is equilbrated to the same temperature as the old. Many folks don't bother matching temperatures, but I believe that it is important to do so when you're changing 10% (or more) of the water.
If you feel you are having high ammonia levels, don't pussyfoot with a 10% water change. Do one as large (e.g. 25 to 50%) as you can with your equipment.
What's a 300 cascade filter? Also, I'd personally add 1 more powerhead (to have 3 running in a 55g, not 2).
hdtran
New member
Cascade 300 is not greatly useful in saltwater tanks; it's essentially a biological filter, which your live rock and sand are doing.
Your protein skimmer should be your front line for nutrient export. Skim aggressively all the time. Never turn off the skimmer (except when cleaning it, which you need to do at least 1x/week, and emptying the cup every few days).
Use the turkey baster to blast the white stuff off your rock; use the sponge on the powerheads to remove big debris; and remove the media from the hang-on-back filter, then, remove the hang-on-filter too.
Your protein skimmer should be your front line for nutrient export. Skim aggressively all the time. Never turn off the skimmer (except when cleaning it, which you need to do at least 1x/week, and emptying the cup every few days).
Use the turkey baster to blast the white stuff off your rock; use the sponge on the powerheads to remove big debris; and remove the media from the hang-on-back filter, then, remove the hang-on-filter too.
if I'm reading his other thread here:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=388480
correctly, no he does not.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=388480
correctly, no he does not.
jdieck
New member
Is the rock in the curing process? If so you need to add more and stronger water circulation, change water often and ramp up your skimmer.
If it is supposed to be cured and you already have corals I wound not blow it away as it may start an infection on the corals. I would rather siphon it off directly from the rock.
If it is supposed to be cured and you already have corals I wound not blow it away as it may start an infection on the corals. I would rather siphon it off directly from the rock.
