plumbing a reef ready tank

[codydemmel4]

so I am getting a 180 gallon reef ready tank with two overflows in thecorners. I will have the sump directly below the tank in the stand, which will be a 40 gallon sump with 3 sections. one being where the skimmer is, middle being the refug and the last the return pump.

I am wondering if there are any good diagrams on how to plumb the tank, like where toput check valves etc to make it most safe.

I have a mag 18 for the return pump

 

[reefiness]

check valves are not a good idea. Best thing to do is leave enough room im sump to catch the water from the tank during a power outage.

Check valves tend to provide a false sense of security, and when it fails on you, you wont be happy.

As for plumbing, you basically run the 2 returns as single lines into the start of the sump, and from the end of the sump, you tee off the return pump into the 2 return lines. It is always helpful to use unions to make changing things around a little easier in the future. Ball valves are also a good idea to regulate flow especially if you are going to have a manifold off of you return pump to feed any reactors you may have.

 

[codydemmel4]

check valves are not a good idea. Best thing to do is leave enough room im sump to catch the water from the tank during a power outage.

Check valves tend to provide a false sense of security, and when it fails on you, you wont be happy.

As for plumbing, you basically run the 2 returns as single lines into the start of the sump, and from the end of the sump, you tee off the return pump into the 2 return lines. It is always helpful to use unions to make changing things around a little easier in the future. Ball valves are also a good idea to regulate flow especially if you are going to have a manifold off of you return pump to feed any reactors you may have.

Thanks, I appreciate the help! I am not going to use a manifold in this build, maybe if I go any bigger then 180 gallon but the only reactor I plan to have is a small gfo that I already have a very smallpump for that will take up no room in the sump.

So bassically if I am reading it correctly, I will have 2 lines from each overflow that will go into the first section of thepump (where I have theskimmer) I do not put any valves on those lines at all, just have them go straight into the sump?

For the returns from the last chamber to go back into the DT, I will have on line coming from my return pump (mag 18) that will have a tee, with the right side of the tee going into the right overflow of the DT and the left side of the tee going into the left overflow? The part I am a little confused on is do I get two ball valves for each side (left and right after the tee) or do I only get on before the tee? Because im assuming the left side will have to travel a lot farther to get into the DT, I plan on having my sump all the way on the right side of my sump.



Thanks for all the help!!!

 

[codydemmel4]

Also what about ball valves on the lines going into the sump so you can control them and the return lines going into the DT?

 

[WiDataTech]

I'm sure other, more experienced people will chime in, but from what I gather, there should be no valves of any sort on your return lines.

 

[WiDataTech]

Edit* I meant drain lines.

 

[anbosu]

There is no reason not to have them on the drain lines, they can be helpful when trying to fine tune a siphon overflow, or just stopping flow when doing some maintenance on the tank.

 

[codydemmel4]

There is no reason not to have them on the drain lines, they can be helpful when trying to fine tune a siphon overflow, or just stopping flow when doing some maintenance on the tank.

this is what i thought and saw on builds. it looks like everyone has a ball valve on all four returns. a ball valve on both going from the DT to the sump, and a ball valve after the tee going from the sump to the DT. I just wanted to make sure this is correct.

 

[anbosu]

this is what i thought and saw on builds. it looks like everyone has a ball valve on all four returns. a ball valve on both going from the DT to the sump, and a ball valve after the tee going from the sump to the DT. I just wanted to make sure this is correct.

Gate valves are even better if you can find them for a reasonable cost

 

[codydemmel4]

Gate valves are even better if you can find them for a reasonable cost

whats the difference, sorry as you can tell. I am new to plumbing

 

[GimpyFin]

I agree with staying away from check valves and making sure you have enough extra room in the sump in case of a power outage. Having return nozzles near the water line helps minimize the amount of water sucked back in when the return is shut off. My plumbing is pretty simple and I don't have any ball/gate valves, but I do have a union coupler on both the drain and return in case I want/need to unhook part of the plumbing.

 

[codydemmel4]

I agree with staying away from check valves and making sure you have enough extra room in the sump in case of a power outage. Having return nozzles near the water line helps minimize the amount of water sucked back in when the return is shut off. My plumbing is pretty simple and I don't have any ball/gate valves, but I do have a union coupler on both the drain and return in case I want/need to unhook part of the plumbing.

Awesome thank you, I definitely am going to try to have the return nozzle near the water to stop the suck back

 

[jalisco]

Pump curves always favor a Y fitting in lieu of a T fitting although at the end of the day you or your fish shouldn't see a difference unless your pump is already maxed out. Impingement will erode 90s and Ts faster than 45s or Ys but in aquarium applications there shouldn't be solids flowing through your system. I guess sand, snails and ?

 

[jalisco]

Also it will never be easier than now to install your unions and valves. In process applications I favor true union valves and have bought them for my system as well. It is always so appreciated when making plumbing repairs when you come across a union or a valve in a well thought out spot. Its a cheap expense today that you'll be thankful for down the road.

 

[GimpyFin]

Awesome thank you, I definitely am going to try to have the return nozzle near the water to stop the suck back

Glad to help. This also cuts the need for a siphon break in your return pipe(s) which can cut down on water noise in the overflow.

 

[codydemmel4]

So this is as of now my final decision on what im going to do.

From the DT to the sump:
I am going to be using regular 1 1/2 inch PVC with a ball valve on each line, simple as that.


From the sump to the DT:
I am going to be using 1 inch vinyl tubing from the return with a ball valve before a Y fitting, with a male adapter to attach it to each bulkhead.
QUESTIONS I HAVE WITH THIS: what should I use to make sure the vinyl tubing is in secure to the return, Y Fitting and each male adapter in the bulkhead, also what size Y fitting do I need if I am using 1 inch vinyl tubing? (I am assuming 1 inch)


How does this sound and do you have any problems or suggestions with this?

 

[flamehawk1613]

http://gmacreef.com this website helped me a lot

 

[TONY_C]

whats the difference, sorry as you can tell. I am new to plumbing

Ball valves are only a 1/4 turn from on to off whereas gate valves allow for much more control, you have to turn them much more to fully close them so it allows for easier fine tuning. Also, most ball valves are kind of stiff and when you want to turn them just a bit it's difficult. Gate vales are usually able to be disassembled for cleaning to but they are several times as much as ball valves.