plumbing help...

[suprzman]

hey everybody,

i am adding a sump (15g) into my system (29g), and needed a bit of advice for the plumbing of the return pump back to the tank. i've never done this part of the reefing system...

on the pump i should attach a union coupler, then PVC piping, then a T junction for diverting flow if needed, and a ball valve to modify the amount of the diverted flow.

at the top of the plumbing, where the loc-lines will be sending water back into the tank, i should drill a few small holes into the bottom-facing part of the loc-line, in order to break any siphon in case the pump fails and water starts to flow backwards.

perhaps i should invest in a check valve as part of the piping up to the display tank?

the pvc junctions should be glued using pvc primer and cement.

have i missed anything crucial?

if anybody has pictures they can refer me to, that would be great!

thanks in advance,
Z.

 

[ufans]

I would add the check valve. I don't have air holes on my outlets but then again my sump can easily handle the back-flow if my check-valve fails.

The only other things that you should consider are
- using tubing vice PVC
- overflow or drilled?
- don't need a ball value if you size the pump right.

 

[suprzman]

what would the benefit of the tubing be? in my experience its a bit harder to control, in terms of the way it bends?
it is going to be with an overflow, the tank is not drilled.
the pump i'm going to be using is a mag7, might be a bit too much, originally was meant for more function than just powering this small system...
Z.

 

[suprzman]

the overflow is a CPR overflow, rated at 600 gph.

 

[mpomfret]

What about a syphon break instead of a check valve ?

 

[Greg manton]

at about three feet of head y will get 550 gpg from that pump should be ok run stait from sump. if your lock line is above water or slightly under when water drains back to sump it wint over flow. if your lock line is way in the tank i guess u could drill a hole just under the surface of the water. hth

 

[areze]

you dont have to be under the surface of the water.

IMO drill 2 holes in each side. 1 under the surface of the water, and 1 over the surface.

I have them over the surface in the skinny section of the locline. I get 0 reverse backwash other than the water in the tubing. no syphon at all. Ive been told salt creep could plug the hole when its really important. point noted so I put on under the water line to limit my liability if the worst happened. but all in all I have 8 syphon breaks, I drill over and under the water line in each of the 2 returns. and for each drill I took a 1/8" bit and went straight through(so that 2 holes total, on opposite sides)

the holes above the water line do not leak or spray at all, nor do they suck any bubbles, and yet they break the syphon instantly.

its an awesome arrangement IMO.

 

[ufans]

Tubing allows you to have more graceful bends (no 90 Degs) so that you can keep the pressure up.

If you are spliting a Mag7 flow into two outputs you can drill two small (1/16") holes just above the water line to be your siphon break. The holes won't put out much water at that pressure. If you don't use a check valve then make sure that the holes are working because they can clog up from algae and stuff.

Keep in mind that you do need to clean your pumps.. So make sure you can remove them without having to day the day off work. The threaded coupler or a basic tubing barb makes a quick disconnect.

 

[suprzman]

thanks everyone, that is helpful.
ufans, thats exactly the thing that i needed to know about, what the point of those couplers, etc is. so couplers basically allow you to disconnect the tubing/piping at distinct points. its a simple thing, but i've never done plumbing before, so i just never knew. good to know, and probably good to build into a system for ease of taking apart/replumbing, etc.
and you make a good point about tubing instead of piping. is there a specific type that you use? i remember attempting to manipulate clear tubing - it didnt want to give up its curled up shape, and seemed difficult for me to shape the way i wanted to...

 

[suprzman]

areze, Greg,
thanks for that siphon break info. i figured putting a couple of siphon breaks would effectively give me a bit of safety. i didnt plan on putting the tips of the loclines too deep into the water, so there shouldnt be too much backflow if the pump stops, before the holes break the siphon.
Z.

 

[ufans]

To straighten the coiled tubing fill up the bathtub or a large rubbermaid with HOT water and soak it for a while.

Be carefull with the CPR overflow. A loss in siphon will cause you to pump the entire sump into the display and cause a lot of problems. I strongly recommend the aqualifter (http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KTALP) to help keep the siphon. Don't forget the filter to help protect the pump.

Also, with the CPR you will also experience a lot of noise issues that will have to be worked out. The gurgling of the air exchange as the water falls down the to sump drives people crazy. It just takes time and small adjustments to find the right point. That and the amount of time it takes for the algae/slime to build up a bit on the plumbing which helps to quiet things.

Good luck.

 

[stugray]

suprzman,

If you are using the CPR overflow, I assume you are going to use the aqualifter option to keep the siphon running. If so, buy more than one so you have a backup. They are very cheap, and mine stopped pumping every 3 months almost like clockwork.

Stu

 

[suprzman]

ufans and stugray,
i did purchase two aqualifter pumps, and the filter for them as well, and i had exactly the same idea on my mind - that i didnt want 10 gallons or so of salt water on my carpet! ha. that would be the end of me
thanks guys.
that hot water idea is a good one ufans, and i think i'll try it. do you use the screw-on clamps on the ends of the piping to tighten them onto any hard plumbing that you have? i believe its made of silver, would there be any problem in keeping that in the water? i would think rust...
thanks,
Z.

 

[ufans]

I don't use clamps underwater... .But they do make plastic clamps. typically the barbs do great. You don't have to worry about the plumbing on the aqualifter....that is just low pressure through typical airline tubing. (make sure you buy extra tubing)