essex_lad
New member
Im going to struggle running a manifold and dropping it down to the uv as I haven't got much height in the cabinet, I do see where your coming from with it all though and thank you for your input.
Plumbing help???
- Thread starter essex_lad
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Im going to struggle running a manifold and dropping it down to the uv as I haven't got much height in the cabinet, I do see where your coming from with it all though and thank you for your input.
ericarenee
New member
The biggest thing is to have the straightest shot from the pump to top of tank . then across to the bulk heads.
Then you can have a t off that main to go to a pipe with your valves..
Very close to what you have .except the t and 90s are not on the flow to the tank.[emoji3]
essex_lad
New member
I see and iv had an idea from that which could work well. thanks.
Skydivingcat
New member
To bad you did not remember that prior to plumbing your tank.
ericarenee
New member
This is what i thought to be true as well. I even argued with people even a pump Manufacturer that knows there stuff.. I was having slower flow then expected and pump noise.They told me a 1 inch outlet on a pump needs to be plumbed with 1 1/4 min pipe but 1 1/2 Would be best...
They sent me a new impeller at my request But told me it would not solve my issue... They were correct... I ran all my returns to the tank with 1 1/2 and my flow increased by at least 30 percent and the Pump noise went away.
I Would have assumed more water in the pipes create more head pressure.But i was wrong... The Outlet pipe should be larger then the inlet . Sounds back word in my mind ..But the above has changed my mind on the subject.. But only because i seen it for my own eyes...
that 2000 gph is at 1 foot most of those pumps Drop off very rapidly at say 5 feet..... This is why i went with REEFLO Pump the magdrive pump was doing the job but with less flow
Wazzel
New member
It is true. If one size up makes that much of a difference you are out at the end of the operating range and flows do drop off quickly there. When I worked at a pump manufacturing plant that was not a place we would run a pump.
Pressure is just he height of the water in a static colum. Diameter of th column does not matter.
Another couple of thoughts - many people are making the argument that with all of the high flow, relatively low cost internal powerheads that can be had these days, having multiple return lines is really not that much of an advantage, if any. In the old days multiple returns helped with mixing water, but one Maxspect, Vortech, etc will move a lot more water around your tank than the return ever will. Greatly simplifies the plumbing. Unless you want dual returns for other reasons, might consider this. My own experiences suggest that the thought is right, the powerheads do a lot more than the return....
The discussion about return lines is interesting, I talked a bit with the support at Reeflo before getting my new pump, they also suggested that to really get the max out of a pump, especially if there are bends in the line, it will help to go to larger pipe. However, if the distances are relatively short (ie your sump is not in the basement) and any bends are gradual, it is not necessary to do this and reducing it somewhat is fine. Flexible PVC is your friend here....
btw, I love that Reeflo snapper/dart gold return pump I ended up getting, I'd recommend to anyone... My sump is in my basement, about 8 foot head with some twists and turns. With 1.5" pipe up into the tank stand, then 1" from there into the tank, I get over 2000gph when opened right up - not much loss from the specs of around 2400. I normally run it at about half that, with flow also going to my frag tank and fuge... I also have one of the new jecods you mentioned on my freshwater tank, they have improved a LOT this version, quite a nice pump.
Finally, if you are going to run any filter canisters, calcium reactor, or anything that might have changing resistance and therefore changing flow, think about getting a second pump to run it. Notion is, if you change resistance in the overall return line, you will change flow to the tank, and those Herbie/beananimal type overflows absolutely rely on constant flow to the tank... Its not an end of the world sort of thing probably, but it can make them much more finicky to control. Some people do it with no issue tho... Other things with constant flow - fuge, frag tank, carefully designed algae scrubber, etc, SHOULD be fine. Some people say nothing but the display tank on the main pump though, and that would be the safest way....
The discussion about return lines is interesting, I talked a bit with the support at Reeflo before getting my new pump, they also suggested that to really get the max out of a pump, especially if there are bends in the line, it will help to go to larger pipe. However, if the distances are relatively short (ie your sump is not in the basement) and any bends are gradual, it is not necessary to do this and reducing it somewhat is fine. Flexible PVC is your friend here....
btw, I love that Reeflo snapper/dart gold return pump I ended up getting, I'd recommend to anyone... My sump is in my basement, about 8 foot head with some twists and turns. With 1.5" pipe up into the tank stand, then 1" from there into the tank, I get over 2000gph when opened right up - not much loss from the specs of around 2400. I normally run it at about half that, with flow also going to my frag tank and fuge... I also have one of the new jecods you mentioned on my freshwater tank, they have improved a LOT this version, quite a nice pump.
Finally, if you are going to run any filter canisters, calcium reactor, or anything that might have changing resistance and therefore changing flow, think about getting a second pump to run it. Notion is, if you change resistance in the overall return line, you will change flow to the tank, and those Herbie/beananimal type overflows absolutely rely on constant flow to the tank... Its not an end of the world sort of thing probably, but it can make them much more finicky to control. Some people do it with no issue tho... Other things with constant flow - fuge, frag tank, carefully designed algae scrubber, etc, SHOULD be fine. Some people say nothing but the display tank on the main pump though, and that would be the safest way....
essex_lad
New member
Thank you for all the great info.
essex_lad
New member
so going off of the amazing information and ideas everyone has given me I have come up with I think my final idea.
Iv scrapped 2 returns and have one in the middle as I have 2 gyres for water movement as well as getting rid of the not so needed overflow pipe which gets rid of a lot of plumbing. Also I can feed my uv and reactor properly now as well as store my reactor in the sump encase it ever leaks.
What do you guys think?
Iv scrapped 2 returns and have one in the middle as I have 2 gyres for water movement as well as getting rid of the not so needed overflow pipe which gets rid of a lot of plumbing. Also I can feed my uv and reactor properly now as well as store my reactor in the sump encase it ever leaks.
What do you guys think?
Nice.... If you are going to go with the 2-overflow method and have not read this article, check it out. Lots of good info, and may give you some additional ideas:
http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/
http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/
essex_lad
New member
That's amazing, thanks.
