Plumbing ideas?

[calvin415]

Alright, I'm trying to plan out the plumbing for my Pop's setup, but I really don't want to spend $200.00 on union ball valves... Anyone have some ideas on how I can do this while allowing the possibility to seperate the closed loop into two loops (adding a second Dart) if one Dart proves to be too weak for the tank...

 

[murfman]

I'd go with a Hammerhead vs. the Dart. This way, you will have enough pressure and not need a 2nd pump.

 

[calvin415]

1st, Dart is already bought, so no changing that, 2nd, I can run 2 Darts for less wattage than 1 Hammerhead so I'd rather add a second Dart if it's needed. I'd like to have a valve on each return so I can dial in the flow, but 6 valves plus tons of unions all at 1.5" plus some more for the 2" drain. Anyone know where you can get them cheap? So far Lowes has the online guys beat... 17.00 for 1.5" Union Ball Valve.

 

[normanviking]

Y ou can try and use threaded pieces closer to the out let and bulks heads sloer to the pump. Does that make any sense?? I used threaded pieces where ever I could get away with it and it would not be to difficult to un thread it later if needed. Nad put unions in the least of location so I could just take the whole assembly off.

 

[racer69]

Eric, you could use vinyl tubing at the separation points with hose clamps. That is what I did with Tracy and Rita's CL. I have taken it apart once already and it was an easy job.

 

[calvin415]

Yeah, I was thinking union valves at each return so I could take it all apart again, I just didn't want to have to buy 8 1.5" and 2 2" valves... 8x17=136 + what ever they charge for 2" ones.

 

[murfman]

I have 1 union on the inlet and 1 on the return. I have ball valves on all the returns and inlets so I can control which ever I want. You could go with 1 BV on each line between the pump and manifold so that you can turn water flow off to remove the pump. You just would not be able to control each individual return line. How much room are you going to have behind the tank? I can't reach all of my BVs so it was a waste to put them in.

 

[calvin415]

Todd, where can I get 1.5" and 2" tubing at a price that's not going to cost just as much?

 

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9582190#post9582190 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by murfman
I have 1 union on the inlet and 1 on the return. I have ball valves on all the returns and inlets so I can control which ever I want. You could go with 1 BV on each line between the pump and manifold so that you can turn water flow off to remove the pump. You just would not be able to control each individual return line. How much room are you going to have behind the tank? I can't reach all of my BVs so it was a waste to put them in.

Plenty...

 

[racer69]

It is usually under $2 a foot and lowes or HD. You wouldn't need that much for short connection pieces.

 

[murfman]

I have some 2" flex spa no one wants.

 

[racer69]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9582219#post9582219 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by murfman
I have some 2" flex spa no one wants.

That would work. It doesn't look bad, and it gives you some flexibility with fitting it all together.

 

[calvin415]

Problem is that I would still need valves to keep the water from pouring if I needed to disconnect everything and they are almost the same price as the union valves.

 

[murfman]

It's about 52"

 

[calvin415]

The more I think about it, I need to use PVC so I can keep everything from flexing, the CL will actually be in the upper catwalk with the returns coming up through the platform and connecting to the tank. I guess I'm just going to have to bust out my sales techniques and convince my pop's to anti up again.

 

[racer69]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9582241#post9582241 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Problem is that I would still need valves to keep the water from pouring if I needed to disconnect everything and they are almost the same price as the union valves.

Sounds like they gotcha then. However you should be able to use fewer BV's if placed stategically.

Gotta go back to work.

 

[calvin415]

Either way it looks like 5 1.5" and 3 2"

 

[murfman]

Why do you need two on the pump inlets that are up top? You could put one in the middle but you already have one down near the pump.

 

[calvin415]

I want suction on the tank to be minimal, don't want to risk any fish or inverts getting hickeys, plus if I need a second pump, the pipe is already there.

 

[reefkoi]

I think murf is trying to say why the 2 ball valves up there when you have one at the pump already? I thought the same thing, If you separate the 2 and add a second pump when it comes time you can just.............yeah you are right you do need them it makes sense what you are doing there. If it were me I'd ad the 2nd Dart for the CL right now, I can't imagine 3 darts being too much flow but can see 2 as being a little shy of your goal, just convince pops to spring for a 3rd dart.
Christo