Plumbing

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Meg rebreather

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Hi guys ... setting up new tank just finished the plumbing would like help on the location of pipe would this be ok ...
I'm using the beam overflow with 2 inlet and 1 emergency, not sure looking from the back my I take to tank would work...
Ant option please?
fb860770c78afd266f7bc1faddd3878d.jpg
5aa7eb2179ecf3680393daf2bde54f62.jpg


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Meg rebreather said:
Hi guys ... setting up new tank just finished the plumbing would like help on the location of pipe would this be ok ...
I'm using the beam overflow with 2 inlet and 1 emergency, not sure looking from the back are the return on? please?
fb860770c78afd266f7bc1faddd3878d.jpg
5aa7eb2179ecf3680393daf2bde54f62.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



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Can you ask your questions again?
Please try paying a bit more attention to spelling, punctuation and the construction of complete sentences this time. :p
 
Sorry was in a bit of a hurry...
I need to know if my plumbing on the back for the return is ok before I glue the pipes, the return die is 32mm I have a Core 20 pump....
 
Meg rebreather said:
Sorry was in a bit of a hurry...
I need to know if my plumbing on the back for the return is ok before I glue the pipes, the return die is 32mm I have a Core 20 pump....
Click to expand...

1. Put a gate valve (not a ball valve) in the line you intend to be the full siphon
2. Cut the length of the pipes entering the sump such that they will extend 1" below the planned water level. Shorter will lead to lots of splashing, longer will make it difficult for the full siphon to purge air to get started.
3. I'd put the ball valve you are taking off on the emergency overflow line. You may never need this but it is good to be able to close off all lines for maintenance if necessary.
4. Consider using larger pipe for the return line. The larger the pipe, the lower the resistance to flow. For example, if your pump has a 1" outlet, I'd use 1 1/4" pipe.

Otherwise, looks like a good plumbing job.
 
I am by no means a plumbing expert but many on this forum are and may agree or disagree but the return line looks like it may create a problem. With the center of the T feeding one side before the split goes to the other side pressure will not be balanced, in my opinion.
 
shellsea said:
I am by no means a plumbing expert but many on this forum are and may agree or disagree but the return line looks like it may create a problem. With the center of the T feeding one side before the split goes to the other side pressure will not be balanced, in my opinion.
Click to expand...

There really isn't a need for the 2 returns to be balanced but if that is the preference then adding a ball valve on each individual return like mentioned above will do the trick. By closing one it will create head pressure & send more flow to the other.
 
Gate valves are hard to get here in Australia that why I have the ball vales they are very easy to turn...
Should I only have the ball valve on the full sihpon?



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Meg rebreather said:
Gate valves are hard to get here in Australia that why I have the ball vales they are very easy to turn...
Should I only have the ball valve on the full sihpon?



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Click to expand...

You only need a valve on the full siphon, but it does not hurt to have them on all 3 in case you need to shut off all three. 2 of my 3 Bean Animal systems have a single gate valve on the siphon whereas the newest one has valves on all 3.
 
ps. I see King Brothers gate valves on Amazon.com.au They cost more than in the US, but are not silly high priced like the Spears valves.
 
If u have valves on the open channel or emergency make sure u leave them fully open. They aren’t needed but they won’t hurt eighther. With all the 90’s u have in your drains I would leave them on both the syphon & open channel. If u have issues purging the air from the drain because of all the 90’s it gives u a option to try & switch the open channel & syphon drains around. I wouldn’t worry much about a gate valve. Ball valve will work fine in the majority of setups. While a gate valve is definitely easier to fine tune a ball valve will work fine in most setups. When it can be a issue is if u have a really small overflow box & u need to make the slightest of adjustments.

A bunch of people are using the ghost type overflow boxes now & where people make a mistake is putting a small 12” overflow on a big 5’ or 6’ tank because the box says it can handle the gph they plan on running. The smaller the overflow box the more inconsistent it will be & that is when a gate valve may be a must. It’s just one of the reasons it’s best to use as long of a overflow box as possible & don’t go by how many gph it states the box can handle.
 
Last edited:
This is all very helpful guys (keep it coming)I will be installing another valve on the emergency pipe ...
Still not sure whether I should chance the outlet return pipe to a bigger pipe @ present it is 32mm :(....
 
Meg rebreather said:
This is all very helpful guys (keep it coming)I will be installing another valve on the emergency pipe ...
Still not sure whether I should chance the outlet return pipe to a bigger pipe @ present it is 32mm :(....
Click to expand...

32mm for a return line sound like a good size. What is the GPH of the pump?
 
Quite big enough, I think. I only mentioned the size because it seemed much smaller compared to the drain sizes. You should have plenty of flow both into and out of the tank.
 
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