plywood bottom tank?

karimwassef

karimwassef

Active member
I found this video online....

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZkLzqZzjJ8U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I've built plywood tanks and glass tanks. I've never mixed the two this way.

What do you guys think?
 
Very Interesting to say the least. I don't know which made me cringe more...the delay he had getting all the side of glass together wondering if they would start to cure before he could get them all in place, or the fact he was using GE silicone. Also the fetal position silicone application was a little humorous. But other than that it seems pretty cool. Still wonder how long it will hold water. Gives me hope for my future tank building project.
 
4' x 4' glass can get expensive.... The same goes double for much larger bases ...

like 10' x 6' (which is what I have in mind)
 
WOW!! 10'x6' Than would be awesome!! I was thinking about a 10'x3' but much later in the future. This is definitely a different way outside of having a tank built or the usual plywood tank
 
My plan is to also incorporate a drop off section that makes this method even more attractive.

So - any major misgivings?
 
 
Damn! King is already taken...? That leaves Boss, Master, Lord, Emperor, Chief, Wizard, Genius, Prime, President, Swami, Sage, Guru, Ace, Maestro, Minister, Dean, Pope, and Ascendant...

Phew! I thought all was lost. :D there's still hope for DIY domination.

Ok - it looks like this is a viable technique and noone seems to have a solid argument against it?
 
So... Taking this a step further :)

The video I posted shows a wood frame base and a wood tank bottom.
The video MarkS posted shows a wood tank bottom on top of a concrete block base.

How about a wood frame base, but with a concrete slab top instead of wood over wood?
The concrete can also be sealed with epoxy and for a larger tank. It would make more sense?

I wouldn't put rebar in it unless I went over 12' x 12' ?
 
karimwassef said:
how "not" to build a tank?

So what's your reservation?
Click to expand...

Silicone product is wrong. Screwing into plywood at the base is wrong. (no strength) Top eurobrace is lacking full coverage. The setting of the sides wasnt let to cure before he got inside to clean up the top eurobrace. It will leak soon enough. Most likely around the bottom. That pine board screwed into the playwood wont hold the force of the side panels. IMO
 
I have a plywood sump today that's been running for 3 years. The epoxy is just a durable as glass.

I agree with the silicone choice, but that's fixable.

I don't see the screwing of the side wood sections to the plywood as being structural. It's only intended to assist with the assembly of the glass panes. Also, once glued, the glue is a stronger bond than the screws - they're basically assembly aids.

The eurobrace is weak - but that can be fixed too. Same with allowing it to cure.
 
karimwassef said:
I have a plywood sump today that's been running for 3 years. The epoxy is just a durable as glass.

I agree with the silicone choice, but that's fixable.

I don't see the screwing of the side wood sections to the plywood as being structural. It's only intended to assist with the assembly of the glass panes. Also, once glued, the glue is a stronger bond than the screws - they're basically assembly aids.

The eurobrace is weak - but that can be fixed too. Same with allowing it to cure.
Click to expand...

Would you have that tank sitting in your livingroom?
 
pepcrylic said:
Silicone product is wrong.
Click to expand...

I need this explained to me. I've read this more than once, usually about GE silicone. Silicone is silicone and any brand will work, so long as it does not contain mold and mildew inhibitors. If you are claiming one brand is better than another, provide facts to back it up or this is nothing more than fanboy speak.

pepcrylic said:
Screwing into plywood at the base is wrong. (no strength) Top eurobrace is lacking full coverage. The setting of the sides wasnt let to cure before he got inside to clean up the top eurobrace. It will leak soon enough. Most likely around the bottom. That pine board screwed into the playwood wont hold the force of the side panels. IMO
Click to expand...

Bear in mind that a standard glass tank is not held together by the plastic trim. The trim helps prevent the glass from bowing, but has very little strength should catastrophic damage occur. The tank is held together by the silicone. He had this tank up and running for quite some time. The bottom bracing as well as the Euro-bracing added strength, but was not what held the tank together. Anyone that has ever built a full plywood aquarium knows that the panels are screwed together on edge. That is why no competent plywood tank builder would use less than one screw every few inches. This aquarium was well built, well sealed and well braced. He had it in operation for more than a year until a heater massively failed, killing his prized freshwater stingrays. He cleaned it out and set it up again, but recently took it down because of the negative memories. The tank itself never failed.

Would I have that in my living room? No, but only because of the dimensions.

karimwassef said:
The video I posted shows a wood frame base and a wood tank bottom.
The video MarkS posted shows a wood tank bottom on top of a concrete block base.
Click to expand...

The design and construction of the base will depend on multiple factors. Either way will work. I think he explains why he went with concrete block in one of his videos. I don't remember his exact reasoning, but I believe it had more to do with laziness and cost than being preferable over a wood stand.
 
MarkS
All silicones are not created equal. That is a fact. The tensile,and tear stregths are very different in many silicone products. Some are much stronger than others.
Three little pigs come to mind. Straw house (10 to 40 gal tank) equals any run of the mill silicone, Stick house (50 -120 gal tank) = stronger tensile and tear silicone. Brick house (120gal tank and above ) = RTV 103,108 silicone adheasive. Not silicone sealant.
Do your home work ,I have. The internet is your friend.
 
Call me a fanboy if you want, but all silicone is not the same. The GE stuff from a box store is more of a sealant than an adhesive. Products such as the Momentive RTV 103 is a high strength adhesive sealant. There is a huge difference in strength. GE Silicone II has a tensile strength of 213psi while RTV 103 has a tensile strength of 400psi.

As for the mold and mildew inhibitors, as long as the product is fully cured before adding water(~1+ week), they are not an issue. I've had a sump running for 7+ years with baffles held in place by the GE silicone with the mold and mildew inhibitors. I'm still waiting for the issues to pop up.
 
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