Po4 & sps question

First off... WOOOOOOOOOOO

Dave B does run a public Aquarium (minus well be) - go look at his live stream and you will see thing's you have never seen before in the hobby. He's tank has been featured on multiple magazines and publications.


Second... I think it's time for the both of you to show you FTS :dance:
 
Justaclownfish....

Wow.... You've been in this hobby a whole 6 months, and you have discovered that all the 'standard' methods are BS. And you have the cajones to attack me for recommending tried and proven techniques - rather than your ability to keep a 30g tank clean for 6 months. You and I are on totally different pages.

I have fish that were spawned and born in my system that are older than your canister.

You clearly didn't grasp the points I was making. Best of luck to you (and your livestock).

Your ability to regurgitate the postings and 'findings' of others doesn't give you any credibility.

And you didn't "Case Closed" anything. You haven't made any point to anyone, except yourself.

Dave B

dave as someone who is new to the hobby and sees so many ways to skin the cat I want to keep it as simple as possible.

I have a 90-gallon tank that's been running for 3-4 years, I just added my first corals about 2 months ago, I do 10% water changes weekly and test every 2-3 days. I'm using 0.6 dkh a day and dose by hand at the moment.

I do run a carbon reactor but no GFO/calcium reactor. I change the carbon out monthly.

I shoot for 8-9 dkh, my p04 is around .08 I feed pretty heavy and have 5 fish and 15 frags. should I even worry about testing for phosphates? I don't have any nussiance algae in the tank.
 
Nimitz, If it ain't broke don't fix it. When people ask me for help with algae issues, the first thing I ask to look at is Phosphates. Phosphates are excess nutrients. And people who chase numbers always says "Well, Natural Seawater is .o2" and that's what is ideal for corals cause that's where the come from.

But in the oceans, while the phosphate levels are super low, there is tons of natural fauna for the corals to feed on. Corals get some of their energy from photosynthesis and some from consumption of food.

In our home aquarium, regardless of how many pods you have crawling on your glass at night, the quantity and variety of fauna is .0001 % of what's on the reef.

In our tanks the corals need the phosphates to feed.

If you have an algae problem, and you have phosphates, then you need to look at correcting some aspect of your filtration.

If you don't have an algae problem, then don't worry about the phosphates. As long as your corals are pretty colored, let the phosphates remain.

You have your biological filtration well balanced that allows the excess phosphates to be available for the corals and doesn't allow for nuisance algae to thrive.

I wouldn't worry about testing for phosphates till you have a reason to.

Dave B
 
I have fish that were spawned and born in my system that are older than your canister.


You have fish that are older than some girls I have dated LOL


Any ways, I just started doseing Po4 in my tank

Constantly running at 0 which is OK but I’m trying to bring my No3 down with carbon dosing which burns up Po4 in the prosess.

I feed about 1 pound of “seafood mix” from 99 ranch market + 2 sleeves of mysis shrimp a month. Some flake and pellet here and there too. Is that heavy for a 135? Fish seem fat and happy.
 
Justaclownfish....

Wow.... You've been in this hobby a whole 6 months, and you have discovered that all the 'standard' methods are BS. And you have the cajones to attack me for recommending tried and proven techniques - rather than your ability to keep a 30g tank clean for 6 months. You and I are on totally different pages.

I have fish that were spawned and born in my system that are older than your canister.

You clearly didn't grasp the points I was making. Best of luck to you (and your livestock).

Your ability to regurgitate the postings and 'findings' of others doesn't give you any credibility.

And you didn't "Case Closed" anything. You haven't made any point to anyone, except yourself.

Dave B

lol case reopened!
 
Ok so a little update yesterday i went over to check my po4 and i had 45 ppb, i fed oyster feast and zooplankton from seachem ( first time trying it ) and accidently left my skimmer off for 10hrs smh po4 tonight is 57 ppb so climbed up but not a lot. I dont have algae growing all over the place only on the glass so im just going to leave po4 alone and check it once in a while, im thinking of maybe adding some chaeto. What do you guys think ?

Manny
 
Ok so a little update yesterday i went over to check my po4 and i had 45 ppb, i fed oyster feast and zooplankton from seachem ( first time trying it ) and accidently left my skimmer off for 10hrs smh po4 tonight is 57 ppb so climbed up but not a lot. I dont have algae growing all over the place only on the glass so im just going to leave po4 alone and check it once in a while, im thinking of maybe adding some chaeto. What do you guys think ?

Manny
I think cheato is a good idea for your tank Manny.
 
I think cheato is a good idea for your tank Manny.
Yea i think i might give it a try, what do you prefer though in a reactor or in the sump ? Any benefits of using it in a reactor instead of a sump. Also if i do go the sump way i want to install another small sump just for the chaeto.

Manny
 
Yea i think i might give it a try, what do you prefer though in a reactor or in the sump ? Any benefits of using it in a reactor instead of a sump. Also if i do go the sump way i want to install another small sump just for the chaeto.

Manny
They both had their advantages and disadvantages. Reactor would need very little space but you now have to worry about another pump and another 2 items to maintain. The in sump is more convenient but requires a lot of room which some tank stands just don't have. This is just being Nick picky though.. you probably won't regret either.
 
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