Possible Pathogen Based Acro Necrosis

Kip, with all your parameters reading correctly, but still having this problem going on, I don't think there is an experienced reefer in the world that would argue with me on getting aggressive on water changes daily at this point. With all of the things that we know to test for reading correctly, we are left with something that we don't know what is going on. I would keep doing the tests that you are, but also the daily changes I mentioned.
 
I have to say the one thing that gets me on here, is how many reefers will spend thousands of dollars on tank, equip, livestock, etc and then risk losing everything in there tank because they didn't QT. Its like playing russian roulette with everything that you have in your main display.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10039823#post10039823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Saltman
thats nice, but thats not saving his tank now is it?
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We are here to try to find out what is the terrible cause of this Problem not to point fingers .
All of as have Problems with reef tanks We post here to find out if any one have a similar problem and the fix for it .
My tank when belly up three months a go Do i know what i'm doing hell no none of as do 100% . If you don't have a reef tank that crash on you you was not in this reef keeping hobby long enough .




Kip did you check the Sand for P04?
 
hey zoom, nobody is pointing fingers. I'm just making a point that no matter how much you think you know, you never will know everything. I just felt I got a sarcastic remark, so I gave one back.
 
I think the correlation between the RO/DI water and the bacterial infections is that maybe the slimecoat is affected by the makeup water and thus leaving susceptible to bacterial infections. Your Ozone and UV won't kill all bacteria or your tank wouldn't survive. In my case it was like night and day between the tap water and RO/DI water. Maybe someone should test the RO/DI water to see if impurities are being leached into the makeup water. I got my filters from Marine depot.
 
zoom... sand... po4.... nope, not yet

it has been 4 days since i've seen another different coral show new recession.... doesnt sound like much... but since i first noticed this problem ~Feb... 4 days is the longest stretch

what is different... i have removed all signs of recession from any affected corals... and the tank is now running 76-77

no conclusions, just observations
 
my ro/di filters... i got them in bulk in a club group buy and have been using the same "lot" for around 2yrs
 
Here is the exsert from a thread about RO/DI unit disinfect.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9711531#post9711531 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
It had to come through the filter to get into the holding tank so that makes no sense.
Disinfection is very important and even critical if you or your pets consume any of the water. Housings and filters can be a breeding ground for bacteria and viruses as well as algaes if not maintained properly. Remember, once you pass water through the first carbon filter there is no disinfectant present anymore. Water sits in the housings for days or weeks on end and sometimes in extreme temperatures with bright lighting or even sunlight shining on the clear housings. You have just provided everything they need to grow and multiply.
By disinfecting the housings every 6 months when you change the filters you greatly reduce the odds of this happening. All RO and RO/DI suppliers should provide clear directions on how to do this procedure which only takes a few extra minutes if done when the housings are already empty for changes.
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9711940#post9711940 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
My disinfection method when replacing the prefilter and carbon block but not the membrane is:
1. Shut off the incoming water.
2. Disconnect the line which goes from the carbon block up to the RO membrane at the membrane housing. (Very Important)
3. Unscrew the prefilter and carbon block housings and remove the old filters. Screw the empty carbon housing(s) back on hand tight.
4. Place 2 or 3 teaspoons (no more than that) of regular unscented bleach in the prefilter housing and reinstall the empty housing.
5. Turn the water back on and catch the water from the 1/4" tube you removed in a bucket or in the sink. Continue to flush until there is no trace of chlorine odor.
6. Unscrew the housings, dump the water, install the new filter cartridges and reinstall the housings. Open the incoming water and fill the housings until water comes out the 1/4" tube. Reinsert the tube and you are up and running for another 6 months.

Don't over do it on the bleach! Household bleach is about 5% strength when new which equals 50,000 parts per million so it goes a long way. It only takes about 1 part per million to kill just about any virus of bacteria.
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10039924#post10039924 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Saltman
hey zoom, nobody is pointing fingers. I'm just making a point that no matter how much you think you know, you never will know everything. I just felt I got a sarcastic remark, so I gave one back.
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Lets not feed the flames..

Two wrongs don't make a right now do they?
 
I kind of disagree on the water changes. I've seen people who have done many large water changes with more issues. I would stick personally to maybe 2X as many as you normally have. Since the issue seems to be a bit more under control, I would stay with what you are doing currently. There have been articles on RK about doing several large water changes and how it can upset the balance of the tank.

Keep going at it man.
 
Kip, et al, out of curiousity, did you have any associated fish deaths when this all began?

When this first started for me, I lost a 7 year old sailfin, just up and died. 2 days later my Naso, followed by 5 anthias. All unexplained and within 1 week. I hadn't lost a fish other than to jumping, in 3 years.

CAReefer
 
If it is a pathogen, the problem is that the acroporas give off slime, this is consumed by other acroporas and this is how it is spread. If you just put an infected colony in the tank it usually radiates out from the colony until all of the other colonies are infected. I had this happen to me at one point. I removed the colony that infected the tank but it was too late, I lost almost all my other colonies. They adapted and became immune somehow. All the new growing polyps, started growing new colonies and now three years later the corals are looking better except for the dead bases. I’m afraid to put new acropora in my tank now unless I know they are ok.

Good luck
-Ben
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10040977#post10040977 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by the_anti_honda
Lets not feed the flames..

Two wrongs don't make a right now do they?
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the last time I checked, I was making of point of no matter how much someone thinks they know, we really will never know everything. How do you interpret that as feeding the flames? Seems the only person keeping it going is you
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10041372#post10041372 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Yum Cimil
If it is a pathogen, the problem is that the acroporas give off slime, this is consumed by other acroporas and this is how it is spread. If you just put an infected colony in the tank it usually radiates out from the colony until all of the other colonies are infected. I had this happen to me at one point. I removed the colony that infected the tank but it was too late, I lost almost all my other colonies. They adapted and became immune somehow. All the new growing polyps, started growing new colonies and now three years later the corals are looking better except for the dead bases. I’m afraid to put new acropora in my tank now unless I know they are ok.

Good luck
-Ben
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When this happened, was your acropora the only thing that was affected in the tank? I know other reefers have stated that they are having some inverts that are dying.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10041495#post10041495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by the_anti_honda
He had already stated that it was ONLY affecting Acroporids.
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If I remember right, this question wasn't directed to you. Once again, your sticking your nose in something.
 
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