Swanwillow
goby girl
so WHERE is up here?
Post your questions and ideas here!!
- Thread starter Mr James
- Start date
so WHERE is up here?
Home_Depot
In Memoriam
I-Falls I am asuming
GoingPostal
Active member
Aquacultured is usually limestone that is thrown out into the ocean for a few years and becomes live rock, looks like figi basically. The pet store up here gets it in through Segrest Farms, they got in 10 pounds a couple weeks ago because I was curious about the quality. It was really cured already, didn't have a nasty smell at all but we didn't have a ammonia kit yet so it sat in a bucket for a week with powerhead and heater and then went into their display tank.
Now it's all dead white looking but when it came in it had some macro algeas and nice coraline colors on it so cured properly with some light it would probably stay colored up. I could get some pics up next week to show the shapes if you like. I get her price for doing work there, could probably get some ordered and brought down to the meeting if people are interested. I know she was planning on an order soon.
Now it's all dead white looking but when it came in it had some macro algeas and nice coraline colors on it so cured properly with some light it would probably stay colored up. I could get some pics up next week to show the shapes if you like. I get her price for doing work there, could probably get some ordered and brought down to the meeting if people are interested. I know she was planning on an order soon.
Swanwillow
goby girl
hmm, kinda interesting, thats what they do at TBS, aquaculture rocks...
GoingPostal
Active member
Lots of places around there do, LiveAquaria and most bigger online places have aquacultured for sale too.
MN. Reef crzy
New member
i have a question. I have a dual overflow tank built with built inoverflows. I was wondering if i could take one discharge and send it to my 55 gallon sump/fuge. At a nice say 900 gph return. Than can i use the other discharge and run a second sump/ propogation tank actually and have that return at say 2000 gph. Will this cause flooding in the other sump. Is this possible if i set sumps same level. or just give me your best idea how i can get a propagation tank in line for my coral for now since i am not doing live rock display for now. IF i could get that to work somehow that would be awesome. so basically this is what i am looking for
tank to return two two sumps. one that will actually act as a sump/ and another as a prop. tank/temp livestock holding tank. It would act as a hospital before i add critters to my system some day when it has coral in the display.
tank to return two two sumps. one that will actually act as a sump/ and another as a prop. tank/temp livestock holding tank. It would act as a hospital before i add critters to my system some day when it has coral in the display.
Mr James
Premium Member
If I understand what you are saying, you would run one drain to the sump/refugium and then back to the tank via a 900gph pump. The second drain would run to a prop tank and then back to the tank via a 2000gph pump. Correct??
How would you regulate how much water goes through the sump refugium vs. the prop tank?? I think there would be an easier way using only one pump and gravity.
Here's what I would do, not know how much space you have:
Drain both overflows to the sump. Within the sump is you skimmer/heater/ATO and such. Your return (Sequence Dart for instance) would head back up to the tank. I would tee off the main return to the prop tank and then gravity feed it back to the sump. That way your skimmer is eating up the raw water from the tank and the prop tank.
As for a refugium, the bigger the better. The refugium needs raw tank water. I would tee off one of the drain from the tank and go to fuge and then gravity feed it down to the sump. Set both the fuge drain and the prop tank drain high enough so that in case of a power outage, you won't flood the sump.
Makes sense??
How would you regulate how much water goes through the sump refugium vs. the prop tank?? I think there would be an easier way using only one pump and gravity.
Here's what I would do, not know how much space you have:
Drain both overflows to the sump. Within the sump is you skimmer/heater/ATO and such. Your return (Sequence Dart for instance) would head back up to the tank. I would tee off the main return to the prop tank and then gravity feed it back to the sump. That way your skimmer is eating up the raw water from the tank and the prop tank.
As for a refugium, the bigger the better. The refugium needs raw tank water. I would tee off one of the drain from the tank and go to fuge and then gravity feed it down to the sump. Set both the fuge drain and the prop tank drain high enough so that in case of a power outage, you won't flood the sump.
Makes sense??
MN. Reef crzy
New member
there will be live rock in the fuge and in the sump. I am only going to have three fish and the sand bed in the 150 for now. I want to use some of my upcoming fish expenses. I really want to get an aquacontroller lll w/ 2 dc8's and 3 probes. So I am going to hold of on the reef in the main tank. I am still going to hold alot of the live rock in the sump. Otherewise i was thinking of just using my skimmer for filtration for at least a few months.
MN. Reef crzy
New member
can you explain the exact gravity process. I also have two returns naturally. I just hate using T's to, they slow down the flow so much on returns. For the gravity you must use gate valves or something for gravity to do its job or maybe it is way more simple than i am making it.
So...how does one know when their skimmer is set properly? We either get so much water that the collector fills within a short period of time (less than an hour), or we don't seem to be skimming enough. There is a yellow/greeish algae on glass and some of the live rock which leads me to believe that the skimmer is maybe not set properly. Also...my next question...what kind of a clean up crew should I have for a 75g? Number of shrimp, snails, crabs...anything else. Thanks!
benihana
New member
Dedex - The skimmer will not pull out the nutrients that cause algea, that is better controlled by the clean up crew that you refferenced.
As far as knowing whn your skimmer is set "properly" it is really up to you on how dry or wet you want to skim. The higher up the neck of the skimmer the bubbles break the easier it is for it to push out EVERYTHING out of the tank, however, you can have some pretty significant swings in salinity if you only top off what is lost with RO/DI, which is why I skim dry (where the bubbles break further down the collection cup).
I just got a new skimmer, so it is still breaking in, but I am/have been emptying my skimmer cup ~ 1x/week which is when it becomes half full.
As far as the number of sanils, hermits, crabs, shrimp, etc...I would reccomend something like this (start small and build up to this):
5-6 Turbos
6-10 Astrea
20 Hermits
10 Nassurias (spelling?)
2 skunk cleaner shrimp
2 -3 peppermint shrimp
and then adding more as you go, that way you won't be starving anything for food.
HTH
Ben
As far as knowing whn your skimmer is set "properly" it is really up to you on how dry or wet you want to skim. The higher up the neck of the skimmer the bubbles break the easier it is for it to push out EVERYTHING out of the tank, however, you can have some pretty significant swings in salinity if you only top off what is lost with RO/DI, which is why I skim dry (where the bubbles break further down the collection cup).
I just got a new skimmer, so it is still breaking in, but I am/have been emptying my skimmer cup ~ 1x/week which is when it becomes half full.
As far as the number of sanils, hermits, crabs, shrimp, etc...I would reccomend something like this (start small and build up to this):
5-6 Turbos
6-10 Astrea
20 Hermits
10 Nassurias (spelling?)
2 skunk cleaner shrimp
2 -3 peppermint shrimp
and then adding more as you go, that way you won't be starving anything for food.
HTH
Ben
Ben, I'm not sure that I can ask this question on here, but where do you suggest purchasing these from? Where have you had good luck?
You wouldn't happen to have information on how "wet" the "stuff" should be when coming out of the skimmer....ours is really really really wet. But we were trying to get as much out of the tank as we could. It sounds like we should run it ia bit dryer, and get the clean up crew ordered and going on the algae. I thought maybe something else was going wrong in the tank, but all the parameters are good.
You wouldn't happen to have information on how "wet" the "stuff" should be when coming out of the skimmer....ours is really really really wet. But we were trying to get as much out of the tank as we could. It sounds like we should run it ia bit dryer, and get the clean up crew ordered and going on the algae. I thought maybe something else was going wrong in the tank, but all the parameters are good.
benihana
New member
I think a few people have gotten things from saltwaterfish.com Personally, I have not, but I know they have great pricing. I have always gotten the majority of my stuff from a few of the LFS down here in the cities.
As far as the information on wet/dry the skimmate is, the only thing I can tell you is to adjust the level of the bubbles in the neck of the skimmer SLOWLY,meaning 1 adjustment, wait 24 hours, and evaluate, and then do it again if needed. You will eventually find a point that you like it at, and you will be fine...however, as long as there is some color to the skimmate, there is no "wrong" way to do it
As far as the information on wet/dry the skimmate is, the only thing I can tell you is to adjust the level of the bubbles in the neck of the skimmer SLOWLY,meaning 1 adjustment, wait 24 hours, and evaluate, and then do it again if needed. You will eventually find a point that you like it at, and you will be fine...however, as long as there is some color to the skimmate, there is no "wrong" way to do it
Mr James
Premium Member
I guess I would disagree. The purpose behind a protein skimmer is to help remove excess nutrients. A skimmer will pull out the nutrients that can cause algae to form, hence the name. Water changes, proper feeding, flow, a refugium, balanced water params and of course good skimming all help to reduce excess nutrients in the system. Snails and crabs don't solve the problem of algae. They are a quick remedy. If the snails and crabs were to eat off all of the algae, they would possible starve and die, thus causing, more algae. It's a healthy balance.
Ask the same question in the main forums and see what kind of answers you get in return. Maybe I am too old school, even if my skimmer isn't.
The MR-1 should break 1" - 2" above the black box if I remember correctly. You should call MRC to confirm. It has been a while since I used this skimmer. If you want it wetter, close off the output a little bit until the break line rises, which will in turn give you wetter skimmate. And will fill your cup faster. Keep in mind that as you remove skimmate, you are in essence removing saltwater. If you replace that missing water with DI water, you could run the risk of lowering your SG (salinity). SO be careful and keep an eye on it. That is why the smaller the system, the quicker things can and will happen. Running it wetter is not giving enough time for bubble contact with the excess nutrients, some people say.
Be aware that Turbos, albeit excellent grazers, are also bull dozers and can knock over corals. Same with Urchins. I have had both. And with SPS and certain other corals in my tank, I choose not to keep either invert. Make sure you have enough extra shells for your crabs or they will fight for larger shells. Die off. When I go to pet stores, that is one item I always look for. If you have any kind of sand bed, be sure to get the proper sand sifting inverts. Cukes are the best IME!! But I run a BB (Bare Bottom) so I needn't (never used that word before) worry.
If you want to destroy algae with an invert, look into a lettuce nudibranch!! Puts a turbo snail to shame. Also be careful of "other types" of snails that some of these "cheap" places sell as excellent algae eaters. Stick with the most recommended by the hobbyist then go and order from a source.
But if you add more and they eat off the algae, what do you think will happen to the snails/crabs?? Die?? I would attack the algae at it's roots and not rely on large amounts of crabs and snails.
benihana
New member
James-
I understand that the skimmer will pull excess nutrients from the water, but maybe I am a little slow in the understanding of biology/chemistry, but I didn't think that mechanical filtration is able to break down certain excess nutrients, as they are more a matter of pulling the excess solid waste??
When it comes to the CUC, my suggestion was more around being skiddish of a "75 gallon Clean up Crew" that certain places will sell you.
I agree that Turbo's are bull dozers, but they are able to consume a lot more than other smaller snails
I understand that the skimmer will pull excess nutrients from the water, but maybe I am a little slow in the understanding of biology/chemistry, but I didn't think that mechanical filtration is able to break down certain excess nutrients, as they are more a matter of pulling the excess solid waste??
When it comes to the CUC, my suggestion was more around being skiddish of a "75 gallon Clean up Crew" that certain places will sell you.
I agree that Turbo's are bull dozers, but they are able to consume a lot more than other smaller snails
one of the LFS in GF had a lettuce nudibranch last weekend when we were there. Pretty cool looking creature...I'm assuming that you wouldn't want more than one in your tank at a time if they are such good cleaners?
I was told not to get a cuke as if they happen to die they release some sort of chemical that could potentially kill off your whole tank.
I was told not to get a cuke as if they happen to die they release some sort of chemical that could potentially kill off your whole tank.
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Mr James
Premium Member
A skimmer isn't the answer to everything, I agree. But your tank parameters REALLY REALLY need to be in order for the skimmer to work efficiently!!!! I highly stress that!! I am in the process of attacking my HA right now by balancing my parameters. So far so good. I am not going to rely on grazers to do it. I do know that it will take several weeks to accomplish, even after my params are good.
Recently I did some in depth reading (very recommended for anyone and everyone) about how chemistry is so darned important in removing waste. I may say this worn and someone, hopefully Randy Holmes Farley will correct me, and hopefully you all will follow up with your own reading....But I read that basically, dripping kalk helps to precipitate phosphates faster and to break therm down. You skimmer will work better too. Dripping kalk also helps either alk or calcium to do it's thing, which in turn helps the other do it's thing, which in turn helps..... you get the idea. I am not a very good chemist, that is for sure.
I could get 10 turbos, 10 urchins and 10 lettuce nudi's. The algae will disappear in a matter of days, if not hours. But it will return. So kick the legs out from underneath it and kill it's source.
My alk is too high. My cal is a tiny bit low. And my Mg is a little low. I am slowly changing that. The key word is slowly, even in my 180g system. My phosphates are too high (more than zero) but my nitrates are zero. Obviously things are out of whack. I am slowly correcting everything. I do not have any coraline growing yet, which is yet another barometer that something is wrong in my system. Yet my corals are growing just fine.
I'll post pics soon.
