Potters Wrasse - To QT or Not to QT?
- Thread starter AUFishGuy
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scooter31707
New member
No personal experience, but I know they are label difficult. Maybe the link below can help you out.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1741550
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1741550
eatbreakfast
New member
Personally, I feel leopards benefit greatly from qt. They are able to get fattened up and used to the light schedule with out competition and curious/intimidating fish.
So I just visited my LFS on lunch break and they just got in a Potters Wrasse, He is huge, at least 3.5-4 inches. He is still acclimating so i had them put him on hold for me till i get off work. My only issue is that i usually get fish as juveniles as i like to watch them grow, all of my other fish in my tank are juvi's ( 2 clowns and a sunburst anthias).
Another thought is do you think with him being so big it will help chances of success with keeping him?
Another thought is do you think with him being so big it will help chances of success with keeping him?
jbvdhp
Active member
We are talking potters leopard, right? I would toss it into the DT, my survival rate with leopards have gone up drastically and it does depend on the condition in which they're received as well. I had a very small (1"-1.25") black leopard not make it recently.
As you can see, RC is torn with qt on these, but I see better survivability by tossing them into the DT.
Also, although it's adult, they have more fat on them to last them a while. I bought a large (5-5.5") wild caught ornate and male (3-4") and female (4-5") vermiculate and they are out more and take to Frozen mysis quickly. I wouldn't worry about an adult sized one.
As you can see, RC is torn with qt on these, but I see better survivability by tossing them into the DT.
Also, although it's adult, they have more fat on them to last them a while. I bought a large (5-5.5") wild caught ornate and male (3-4") and female (4-5") vermiculate and they are out more and take to Frozen mysis quickly. I wouldn't worry about an adult sized one.
Thanks for the reply, so i just realized by reading through some threads that these will munch on pods. Will they decimate a pod population like a mandarin would? I ask because i am on the waiting list for a mandarin pair, should be getting them in like 2-3 weeks:bounce3:. I dont want to add anything that is going to destroy their food source.
ilikefish34
New member
There's a good primer on Leopard Wrasses with a great amount of information that I would check out. It's a very long read but the short version is that these fish did the best when put directly into the DT or put into a QT that was set up like a smaller version of the DT instead of a typical PVC and a powerhead. While throwing it straight into the DT may have benefits for the wrasse it will be worse for all if it takes some velvet with it.
Like eatbreakfast said, QT gives them the time to acclimate to captivity without established tank mates intimidating them at feeding time. The also, may not come in on the same day/night schedule as the rest of your fish and QT is the bests time to adjust timers for your lighting to slowly correct this (this is due to them burrying). I plan on purchasing one this fall and will be putting it into a 50 gallon with live rock for a six week observation period along with a treatment of Prazi (it can be safely used in the DT but I prefer QT for all meds).
Yes it will eat up the pods and I don't know the size aquarium, amount of live rock and how large/efficient of a refugium would be needed to maintain the Wrasse and a pair of Mandarins. I'm not sure if continually purchasing pods is an option for you as well or the notion of trying to get the Mandarins on frozen and conditioning them to a feeding station.
Good Luck
Mike
Like eatbreakfast said, QT gives them the time to acclimate to captivity without established tank mates intimidating them at feeding time. The also, may not come in on the same day/night schedule as the rest of your fish and QT is the bests time to adjust timers for your lighting to slowly correct this (this is due to them burrying). I plan on purchasing one this fall and will be putting it into a 50 gallon with live rock for a six week observation period along with a treatment of Prazi (it can be safely used in the DT but I prefer QT for all meds).
Yes it will eat up the pods and I don't know the size aquarium, amount of live rock and how large/efficient of a refugium would be needed to maintain the Wrasse and a pair of Mandarins. I'm not sure if continually purchasing pods is an option for you as well or the notion of trying to get the Mandarins on frozen and conditioning them to a feeding station.
Good Luck
Mike
If you want a mandarin you should give up on most wrasse species, especially this one which has more or less the same exclusive food source.
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The Leopard Wrasse primer i found was only 2 pages and didn't have that much info. Maybe i was looking at the wrong thread. Nevermind i found the primer
I have a 90 gallon that is packed with pods, my refugium is really small so i have begun cultivating both phyto and pods for the mandarin pair that is coming
jbvdhp
Active member
Potters Wrasse - To QT or Not to QT?
Wrasses and mandarins would kill your pods.
I found mine ate mysis and frozen pods readily and the competition for food made them even "hungrier", so to speak (for competition). They really go after food. I love mandarins but if I ever try one again, it'll be the only pod eating fish in the tank.
Wrasses and mandarins would kill your pods.
I found mine ate mysis and frozen pods readily and the competition for food made them even "hungrier", so to speak (for competition). They really go after food. I love mandarins but if I ever try one again, it'll be the only pod eating fish in the tank.
Leopards are tougher to acclimate than mandarins, but far easier to keep once acclimated because they will eventually take most prepared foods (maybe choati excepted). Trouble with putting a leopard straight into the display has less to do with disease, and more todo with getting them feeding in a low stress, non aggressive environment.
hogfanreefer
Active member
My Potter's was no problem in QT. It did great with two rounds of Prazi an is fat and happy in my DT. It did take a while to get him eating well.
Personally if you have any aggressive feeders (like a bunch of other wrasse) QT is very important. Mine would not have been able to compete in the big tank early on. Now he is one of the most voracious feeders in the tank.
Personally if you have any aggressive feeders (like a bunch of other wrasse) QT is very important. Mine would not have been able to compete in the big tank early on. Now he is one of the most voracious feeders in the tank.
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