chachijoe75
New member
Can the 6 socket Digital Power Bar be used to turn on/off IceCap ballasts or do I need the GHL High AMP Expansion Socket?
Power Bars
- Thread starter chachijoe75
- Start date
Fishie Nut
Premium Member
I have three Ice Cap digital 250W electronic ballasts running on the digital powerbar. No problems. Make sure you use the four outside outlets, as they are heavier duty.
I purchased the High AMP Expansion, but never used it.
I purchased the High AMP Expansion, but never used it.
AQD_ottawa
New member
Personal choice but to take the stress off of the relays at HO striking which can exceed over 40 amps in some cases can put wear on the relay contacts over a period of time.
Due to this and GHL completely unable to control what ballasts or quality of ballasts are used we would suggest the use of the HIGH AMP bar to take the risk away of high stiking currents causing undue stress to your power bars relay contacts.
Only yesterday i received an email from someone who had been using a bar for nearly 18 months, the relays have just welded themselves shut, basically given up the ghost by being hit with a huge AMP surge daily.
All North American Controller/power bar manufacturers recommend the use of HI AMP bars for this reason.
The bottom line is I guess, if the HIGH AMP bars were not required they simply would not be manufactured by the controller producers.
But the choice is up to you.
Due to this and GHL completely unable to control what ballasts or quality of ballasts are used we would suggest the use of the HIGH AMP bar to take the risk away of high stiking currents causing undue stress to your power bars relay contacts.
Only yesterday i received an email from someone who had been using a bar for nearly 18 months, the relays have just welded themselves shut, basically given up the ghost by being hit with a huge AMP surge daily.
All North American Controller/power bar manufacturers recommend the use of HI AMP bars for this reason.
The bottom line is I guess, if the HIGH AMP bars were not required they simply would not be manufactured by the controller producers.
But the choice is up to you.
Last edited:
AQD_ottawa
New member
I also want to add to this, and this is quite important.
There may be a miss conception based on conversations I have had with clients, that our continued advise of using HIGH AMP bars is some commercial aim or goal. I hope this more technical explanation helps.
In Europe, these extended bars are not required, this is because the voltage is higher well actually double, this means high ampage loads can be carried better with far less strain on the components used in High AMP switching.
In the USA/CD as we all know the voltage is far less, and so the opposite applies, HIGH AMPS create higher loads as the voltage requirements are not there. This is why your home cooker/stove is plugged into a 220V + line in your home.
Its all to do with the low voltage associated with the HIGH AMP rate you are drawing.
I hope this helps explain a bit further
There may be a miss conception based on conversations I have had with clients, that our continued advise of using HIGH AMP bars is some commercial aim or goal. I hope this more technical explanation helps.
In Europe, these extended bars are not required, this is because the voltage is higher well actually double, this means high ampage loads can be carried better with far less strain on the components used in High AMP switching.
In the USA/CD as we all know the voltage is far less, and so the opposite applies, HIGH AMPS create higher loads as the voltage requirements are not there. This is why your home cooker/stove is plugged into a 220V + line in your home.
Its all to do with the low voltage associated with the HIGH AMP rate you are drawing.
I hope this helps explain a bit further
If the relay sticks your lights can stay on, which is what happened to me Thursday night, I found one light on when I woke up Friday morning. Emailed Michael shortly after Friday ordered the high amp expansion in the afternoon.
I was using my analog bar.
It would be a bummer to have one of the socket relays burnt out.
I just wish the expansion socket could be controlled directly from the Profilux instead of having to plug it into one of your other bars. The additional two sockets would be welcomed.
Thanks again Michael.
By the way the smack worked. I gave myself one too, just to even the score. lol
I was using my analog bar.
It would be a bummer to have one of the socket relays burnt out.
I just wish the expansion socket could be controlled directly from the Profilux instead of having to plug it into one of your other bars. The additional two sockets would be welcomed.
Thanks again Michael.
By the way the smack worked. I gave myself one too, just to even the score. lol
AQD_ottawa
New member
I think this example proves my above posts.
With regards to the High amp being integral, this defeats the object of how the bar works by isolating itself from the main unit, and using independant power to supply it.
Nothing wrong with a good smack to get things working!
With regards to the High amp being integral, this defeats the object of how the bar works by isolating itself from the main unit, and using independant power to supply it.
Nothing wrong with a good smack to get things working!
chachijoe75
New member
Great response, thanks for taking the time to explain. 80some dollars is not enough savings to risk your system. i'll make sure to add this to my order.
AQD_ottawa
New member
Seems a hot topic today! This one comes up every now and again.
Yes for $80ish it is in my eyes a no brainer really, considering to get your digital bar repaired after warranty expiration will cost about the same as a new digital bar at $240+
Yes for $80ish it is in my eyes a no brainer really, considering to get your digital bar repaired after warranty expiration will cost about the same as a new digital bar at $240+
ReefRockerLive
GHL Mitras LX7 Club
Would the High AMP expansion be only for MH users? I'm using T5's, maybe getting 2 of these would be a good idea?
AQD_ottawa
New member
YES - They are for any HIGH AMP load, so yes T5 also falls into the catagory especially with the latest high output ballasts
ReefRockerLive
GHL Mitras LX7 Club
Well then, it's time for me to start saving money for two of these babies! While I'm at it, I'll get another GHL product. 
AQD_ottawa
New member
Ok lets clarify.
Total load of a power bar must not exceed 15amps.
So to break down further (in general)
Heaters are FINE on the digital bars, depending on what else you have running on the bar also (i,e not exceeding 15amp draw in total on power bar, taking into account all other equipment plugged in).
Chillers are fine depending on the size, but in 99% of cases will not cause any issue, again depending on what else you have running also (see above)
Kidney - Your heaters should be OK, BUT total draw of the power bar must not exceed 15amps so my statement depends on what else you have running on your power bar.
Here is the Watts to AMPS conversion
Convert Watts to AMPS:
AMPS = Watts / Voltage
I = P ÷ E (I=AMPS, P= watts, E = Volts)
Example:
2,300 WATTS = 2300w divided by 120v = 19.1 AMPS
High AMP striking comes from Ballasts and that is what can potentially shorten the life of relay contacts.
The above statements really comes down to common electrical sense and not overloading a single socket on your ring main.
use the calculation above to determine your over all load and make a decision based on that, as it is only the user that knows what they are running and not us.
But if you are running ANY HO ballasts or high draw T5 ballasts, then consider the HIGH AMP bar.
Total load of a power bar must not exceed 15amps.
So to break down further (in general)
Heaters are FINE on the digital bars, depending on what else you have running on the bar also (i,e not exceeding 15amp draw in total on power bar, taking into account all other equipment plugged in).
Chillers are fine depending on the size, but in 99% of cases will not cause any issue, again depending on what else you have running also (see above)
Kidney - Your heaters should be OK, BUT total draw of the power bar must not exceed 15amps so my statement depends on what else you have running on your power bar.
Here is the Watts to AMPS conversion
Convert Watts to AMPS:
AMPS = Watts / Voltage
I = P ÷ E (I=AMPS, P= watts, E = Volts)
Example:
2,300 WATTS = 2300w divided by 120v = 19.1 AMPS
High AMP striking comes from Ballasts and that is what can potentially shorten the life of relay contacts.
The above statements really comes down to common electrical sense and not overloading a single socket on your ring main.
use the calculation above to determine your over all load and make a decision based on that, as it is only the user that knows what they are running and not us.
But if you are running ANY HO ballasts or high draw T5 ballasts, then consider the HIGH AMP bar.
AQD_ottawa
New member
The above calculation shows clearly why HIGH AMP bars are used in North America.
Higher the wattage fed on a lower Voltage = Higher ampage draw.
Taking for example the heater question above
total AMP draw on 110V
1000Watts dvided by 110V = 9.09 amps
Exact same heater but for 220V
1000Watts dvided by 220V = 4.54 amps
A huge difference
So going back to high strike ballasts where this thread started.
A ballast on a 110V line can produce anything up to 40 AMP striking current draw
Put that same ballast on 220V and you are halving the current load, thus the reason why HIGH AMPS sockets are not required on EURO equipment, but are common practice in North America
Higher the wattage fed on a lower Voltage = Higher ampage draw.
Taking for example the heater question above
total AMP draw on 110V
1000Watts dvided by 110V = 9.09 amps
Exact same heater but for 220V
1000Watts dvided by 220V = 4.54 amps
A huge difference
So going back to high strike ballasts where this thread started.
A ballast on a 110V line can produce anything up to 40 AMP striking current draw
Put that same ballast on 220V and you are halving the current load, thus the reason why HIGH AMPS sockets are not required on EURO equipment, but are common practice in North America
AQD_ottawa
New member
Yes you can providing you are not drawing more than 15amps on one house hold socket.
