Power Bars
- Thread starter chachijoe75
- Start date
AQD_ottawa
New member
here is your running load
150 x 2 = 300W
AMPS = 300W/110V
Total AMP load on running condition
= 2.72 AMPS
150 x 2 = 300W
AMPS = 300W/110V
Total AMP load on running condition
= 2.72 AMPS
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
Hi Michael,
I assume if you are doubling 2 lights into 1 socket on the High AMP expansion, you cannot control them independently?
You can control the 2 oulets of the high amp expansion separately though, right?
I assume if you are doubling 2 lights into 1 socket on the High AMP expansion, you cannot control them independently?
You can control the 2 oulets of the high amp expansion separately though, right?
Stoneyscoral
New member
Ryan, your assumptions are correct and yes the two plugs on the high amp can be controlled seperately.
AQD_ottawa
New member
SORRY - NO this is incorrect
The two sockets on the high amp will switch together, they are not independant from each other. So when power is amplied to the HIGH AMP bar BOTH sockets will be live.
The two sockets on the high amp will switch together, they are not independant from each other. So when power is amplied to the HIGH AMP bar BOTH sockets will be live.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
wow, so sneaky!
Well all i realy want out of profilux (in terms of lighting) is to have emergency shutoff of MH lighting in the event of really high temp (maybe 83 or so)
I suppose I could get a single hi AMP expansion, and then plug a 3-way timer into that. this way the profilux would only have the ability to shut off all 3 lights at once, but the timer would control their cycle.
see anything wrong with that?
Well all i realy want out of profilux (in terms of lighting) is to have emergency shutoff of MH lighting in the event of really high temp (maybe 83 or so)
I suppose I could get a single hi AMP expansion, and then plug a 3-way timer into that. this way the profilux would only have the ability to shut off all 3 lights at once, but the timer would control their cycle.
see anything wrong with that?
Profilux will control high temp lighting
Profilux will control high temp lighting
The Profilux interrface will control the lighting issue; you don't need extra timers. It will a) control the on/off cycles by means of programmable timing and b) shut particular lights off if temperature climbs to a level that you determine. For example, my halides switch on from 9am to 4pm by means of the Profilux (through the high amp bar). I've set it so that the Profilux shuts off the halides, and only the halides, if temperature climbs by 2.5 degrees, which is a lot for my tank, which only varies by 3/4 of a degree at the very most in a 24-hour period thanks to careful chilling/heating programming.
Hopefully this helps you in your thinking.
Profilux will control high temp lighting
The Profilux interrface will control the lighting issue; you don't need extra timers. It will a) control the on/off cycles by means of programmable timing and b) shut particular lights off if temperature climbs to a level that you determine. For example, my halides switch on from 9am to 4pm by means of the Profilux (through the high amp bar). I've set it so that the Profilux shuts off the halides, and only the halides, if temperature climbs by 2.5 degrees, which is a lot for my tank, which only varies by 3/4 of a degree at the very most in a 24-hour period thanks to careful chilling/heating programming.
Hopefully this helps you in your thinking.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
yes I know it has the ability to time and shut off lighting.
But they are saying for 250W MH you need high AMP expansion. And each expansion is only 1 controllable toggle wth profilux (according to Michael).
So for 3 MH lights I would need 3 expansions to still control them independently. $83 each so $250 dollars.
id rather just buy 1 hi AMP expansion. I'm pretty sure I can find a good 3-way timer for cheaper then $160.
But they are saying for 250W MH you need high AMP expansion. And each expansion is only 1 controllable toggle wth profilux (according to Michael).
So for 3 MH lights I would need 3 expansions to still control them independently. $83 each so $250 dollars.
id rather just buy 1 hi AMP expansion. I'm pretty sure I can find a good 3-way timer for cheaper then $160.
Gotcha. Didn't realize you wanted to control each halide independently. You're right: seems like a good solution. BTW, NOMA makes digital times for block heaters in cars; I assume these are high amp, which would work well for halides. They're what I used to use before switching to the Profilux (and the high amp bar for halides).
BTW: I was hoping to use one high amp socket for my halides and the second for the chiller, but now it's clear this won't work as they're switched as one. Oh well.
BTW: I was hoping to use one high amp socket for my halides and the second for the chiller, but now it's clear this won't work as they're switched as one. Oh well.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
yah I'm having a hard time thinking when the 2 outlets on a hi AMP expansion would ever be useful.
AQD_ottawa
New member
Erik, you dont need a HIGH AMP for your chiller as I said before, providing your load does not exceed 15AMPS in total for the 6 socket power bar.
The HIGH AMP is for protecting against high amp in rush for items such as ballasts, Chillers do not create this inrush draw as a general rule.
Tony - You can use timers yes and have the digital bar set to permanent on but does that not defeat the object of even using the profiLux for your lighting, you may as well in this case plug them straight into a wall socket on a timer.
I understand what you want to do which is very valid, but the reason the two sockets switch together is beacuse they are controlled by one socket on the digital bar.
The HIGH AMP is for protecting against high amp in rush for items such as ballasts, Chillers do not create this inrush draw as a general rule.
Tony - You can use timers yes and have the digital bar set to permanent on but does that not defeat the object of even using the profiLux for your lighting, you may as well in this case plug them straight into a wall socket on a timer.
I understand what you want to do which is very valid, but the reason the two sockets switch together is beacuse they are controlled by one socket on the digital bar.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
"You can use timers yes and have the digital bar set to permanent on but does that not defeat the object of even using the profiLux for your lighting, you may as well in this case plug them straight into a wall socket on a timer."
Sure I get what you're saying. IMO it does not defeat the purpose entirely. Like I said, I am mostly wanting the profilux to be able to turn OFF the MH lights if temp rises too high, in case the chiller fails, or my house AC fails and the air temp goes off the charts (omg last summer my house got in the 90s while the AC broke!)
Im primarily using the profilux for the pH control, ATO and dosing.
would you say that an ATI Powermodule with 4x39W T5 lighting should be on high AMP load? This is the lighting for my frag tank.
btw im crazy about redundancy. for temp control I'm going to use a Ranco plugged into the powerbar, and then hook up 2x250W heaters to the ranco. this way heaters only go on if both profilux and ranco agree they should be on.
of course I suppose it also doubles the chance that NO heating will occur, but I think thats much less serious than heaters staying on. I' welcome feedback on that idea.
Thanks!
Sure I get what you're saying. IMO it does not defeat the purpose entirely. Like I said, I am mostly wanting the profilux to be able to turn OFF the MH lights if temp rises too high, in case the chiller fails, or my house AC fails and the air temp goes off the charts (omg last summer my house got in the 90s while the AC broke!)
Im primarily using the profilux for the pH control, ATO and dosing.
would you say that an ATI Powermodule with 4x39W T5 lighting should be on high AMP load? This is the lighting for my frag tank.
btw im crazy about redundancy. for temp control I'm going to use a Ranco plugged into the powerbar, and then hook up 2x250W heaters to the ranco. this way heaters only go on if both profilux and ranco agree they should be on.
of course I suppose it also doubles the chance that NO heating will occur, but I think thats much less serious than heaters staying on. I' welcome feedback on that idea.
Thanks!
AQD_ottawa
New member
It is difficult to give feedback as I think your looking for reasurrance.
When clients start to talk about redundancies I really cant make much od a comment as this is all down to personal security, what makes you sleep easier.
To answer your other question, T5's have less of a kick than HO, but without knowing the technical data, again hard to advise, bottom line is common sense
When clients start to talk about redundancies I really cant make much od a comment as this is all down to personal security, what makes you sleep easier.
To answer your other question, T5's have less of a kick than HO, but without knowing the technical data, again hard to advise, bottom line is common sense
AQD_ottawa
New member
Erik, guess your going to prog growth, say hi to Joel for me!
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
understood and thanks.
I think I'll go with 2 hi amps, 1 for my MH lighting and another for the T5 just in case.
Ryan (tony? : )
*edit* now I can see a use for the 2 sockets of hi AMP. the ATI 4 bulb has 2 ballasts. perfect
I think I'll go with 2 hi amps, 1 for my MH lighting and another for the T5 just in case.
Ryan (tony? : )
*edit* now I can see a use for the 2 sockets of hi AMP. the ATI 4 bulb has 2 ballasts. perfect
AQD_ottawa
New member
yep this is the exact reason why the HIGH AMP has two sockets, most lights have two ballasts with two cables
So I can plug this to a seperate wall outlet, and have it be a seperate outlet say 6 on my dig bar this would be #7???
The outlet is not plugged into the powerbar taking up a plug space? Just the controll wire daisy chained.
Also i want one asap i run my 400w ballasts on my dig bar and seen this and want them off before they damage the bar.
I have 2 400w ballasts i need to plug in and i can use one of these?
AQD_ottawa
New member
NO!
Ok again simple explanation
The hi amp control plug is plugged into a digital power bar or analogue bar socket. The power line of the hi amp goes into a wall socket.
You then program the analogue or digital bars socket you have plugged the hi amp control line into to switch when you want your lights on and off.
Therfore you are not gaining or loosing a socket
Both hi amp sockets switch together.
Available in stock now
Ok again simple explanation
The hi amp control plug is plugged into a digital power bar or analogue bar socket. The power line of the hi amp goes into a wall socket.
You then program the analogue or digital bars socket you have plugged the hi amp control line into to switch when you want your lights on and off.
Therfore you are not gaining or loosing a socket
Both hi amp sockets switch together.
Available in stock now
