Problem with Kenya Trees , Turing white

Avalanche Wolf

New member
I have been trying to figure this out but cant find anything relivent. I have about 4 frags various sizes in the tank in various levels and light qualities in the tank. Over the process of about 4 months they hav all turned white. They still have decent expansion but growth has been halted completely.

Tank gets a 20g change a week, also running UV , Carbon and Phosban along with the skimmer. PH is nominal and Ca runs in the 400-420 range.

Zenia have not had a problem but also no real growth coming from them as well. No coloration problems with them.

MH lighting does need to be changed but everything else hasnt had a problem and sps and lps growth has been great.
 
about 6-8 weeks ago, I had 2 Kenya trees die on me along with a couple of LPS and while surfing the net I read where running phosban reactor full time can cause problems with softies and I had been have a phosban reactor running for several week already but all reading were within normal.

so anyway, I took my phosban reactor off line and plan on running it only when phosphate reading go up. I have added a couple of more softies to the tank and so far so good, and in fact out of no where, there is now a Kenya tree growing back from a rock. Don't know if that could be a problem for you or not, just letting you know what happened in my tank.

Norman
 
I have to agree with Norman there. It will cause problems for running phosban. It's happened to me as well and I took that stuffs down real quick.....
 
yah I have only been running the phosban for about a week right now so in this case it is not the reactor. The only thing I can come up with is that the lighting needs to be replaced which is going to start taking place a blub/month.
 
There is a lot of talk of phosban causing corals to bleach...

A lot of the talk has centered around dust from the phosban getting into the tank. So, first, you should be VERY careful about rinsing the stuff before you put it in the reactor and (as discussed in the thread posted below) wasting the first few gallons you push through it. Also, make sure that the phosban isn't being agitated too much in your reactor to the point that it would produce dust from the action of the tumbling. If you're doing that, good...

I have been running phosban on my 90 gallon for a while because I simply had an algae problem I couldn't keep under control and thought maybe it would solve my problem. In short, it didn't. Every time I added phosban it would make my corals lose almost all of their color. I never lost anything to it, but there was a clear relationship. However, I also noticed that I had almost no algae growth in the week or two after adding fresh and I started slowly but surely beating the algae back. This made clear a few things to me: 1) The phosban was definitely taking phosphates out of the water which is exactly what was causing my algae problem despite never having a phosphate reading on a test kit, 2) as soon as the phosban was used up, the algae would grow back as fast as ever, so there was a source of phosphates in my tank that had nothing to do with an overly populated tank (a six-line and a green chromis in a 90) or over feeding (I fed just a couple of times a week), 3) since I was uber-careful about the dust issue and was running a relatively small amount of water through my reactor, the most likely thing causing the bleaching was a sudden and significant drop in phosphates each time I added fresh phosban.

If you read most posts describing similar issues to yours (or mine), I think you'll find that 90% all of them will be attributable to one or both of these things (dust or sudden drop in phosphates). My guess is that the second is more prominent, since the majority of people won't bother spending the time and money on a phosban reactor if they don't perceive that they need it.

If you aren't having the phosphate issues I've been having and are just running phosban in order to keep your levels extremely low, it seems likely that your corals wouldn't react as quickly or angrily to the addition of phosban because they are already accustomed to the low levels of phosphates (I imagine this is why a lot of good SPS keepers use phosban without any ill effects). That said, since softies generally tolerate (if not prefer) dirtier water and more suspended particles (i.e., food), it seems most likely to me that the phosban is causing them to bleach in a much slower process caused by a lack of available nutrients. The different tolerances and feeding behaviors for different corals is why keeping a very healthy truly mixed reef is a nearly impossible balancing act.

Here's a thread on GFO. It might not be the best one, but it does cover some of the issues I talked about above.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1325311&highlight=gfo+bleaching


My (hopefully) final solution for my phosphate problem:
I've now taken all sand and rock out of my tank and replaced with fresh rock (I'm fairly sure the rock was phosphate laden and releasing phosphates in to the water as fast as the algae could use it to grow). I did not replace the sand and I've increased the flow in my 90 with 2 more Koralia 4's (4 K4's, Eheim 1262 return, Gen-X PCX40 on a closed loop...and I'm still considering a K4 mod to more than double the output of 2 of those). I've not yet decided if I'll continue to run GFO since I don't think it will be necessary, but I'm considering it since I've already got it, since I have all SPS in that tank, and since (I hope) I've fixed the real issue behind the nutrient problem...
 
OK... slight foot in mouth then. Still I won't edit my previous post because I think the info is essentially on track. Depending on how much you're skimming, your feeding schedule, and your fish load it still seems quite possible the softies are not getting enough nutrients out of the water.

It could be the MH bulbs, but I would expect the SPS to show the first effects of old bulbs (but maybe I'm wrong about that).
 
Thanks for all the time put into the post Brian first off !

I had just bought the phosban reactor a week ago so this problem has been around WELL before any phosban has been used in the system. I do run the skimmer constantly though so that very well could be the issue there.

I had also been slacking in water changes over the past 3 months or more while i really try to get to water changes every week the last few months have really been ever 3-4 weeks got a water change so that very well could be it.

I also plan on dumping my sand bed in the refugium. It has over a year or more on it and I am sure is well past its shelf life just releasing it into the system.

With my current bio load not running the skimmer though is just not an option. Granted it happened over time but

2 PJ cardnials ( were not planning on them but had to be rescued )
1 yellow tang
2 green chromis ( small )
1 orange diamond goby
2 barred gobys
1 Purple Pseudochromis ( wife thought it was pretty and bought it without permission grrr )
1 Yellow belly Blue damsel ( starter )
1 zebra damsel ( starter )

all in a 100 with a 35g sump ( 20g water mark )

The new pumps have made a huge differance adding the K4s in the tank which have kept things a LOT cleaner and happy.
 
Ok... well... I have no :idea:

Also, apologies for all on my aforementioned book. I need to learn to stop myself.
 
Once when my brother changed the PCs in his light, the frogspawn and kenya trees turned a white color. They ended up turnin' back to normal though. I think it was maybe a few weeks. So, it might have somethin' to do with lights.

I did switch over to 4x54 T5HO on this tank and the light was much brighter than the PCs and it had no effect on the corals.

Steve
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12113529#post12113529 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DMBillies
Ok... well... I have no :idea:

Also, apologies for all on my aforementioned book. I need to learn to stop myself.


LOL no thank you for you "book" you put a lot of detail into your postings and helps get things through even my dense head so i can understand. Most of your posts are like that which is great.



I really keep coming back to lighting. I have new blubs on the way for the MH lights which one will get replaced every 3 weeks for the 3 blubs which should hopefully be enough time to spread out for the corals and fish to not get shocked. I will update the thread to keep it going as I do it.

Thanks for all the help to those that posted :)
 
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