Problem with Sps

yes i will let it take it course but i will only slow down a little the calcium reactor. thanks for the help I learned something new and I made a freind thank you very much. I will post the progress of the tank.

ok now... what you do tu much the paramiters of the new water with the water of the tank??? let us say that we have this paramiters in the new water:

KH 15
Cal 500
Mag 1400

and the paramiters of the tank:

kh 8
cal 420
mag 1350

how you adjust or what you do to much the water of the tank??? my opinion is to do lower water change volume, say 10% weekly. what do you think?
 
yes i will let it take it course but i will only slow down a little the calcium reactor. thanks for the help I learned something new and I made a freind thank you very much. I will post the progress of the tank.

ok now... what you do tu much the paramiters of the new water with the water of the tank??? let us say that we have this paramiters in the new water:

KH 15
Cal 500
Mag 1400

and the paramiters of the tank:

kh 8
cal 420
mag 1350

how you adjust or what you do to much the water of the tank??? my opinion is to do lower water change volume, say 10% weekly. what do you think?

How long had the water mixed when you tested the new batch? I really do have a hard time believing that it is 15dkh. Are you using the api kit for saltwater? I know they have a kh test for fresh as well. I dont know what in the world would make it 15 DKH besides very high salinity but even then the carbonate would fall out of solution and precipitate all over your mixing bin and likely even stop your pump from working! As it stands if the alk is indeed 15 DKH then I would try to return the bucket as thats not really suitable to use. Only thing I would know to do is add more calcium to it to force it to precipitate but that goes out of my level of chemistry understanding...might need to post in the chem forum but if you can take a sample to a lfs or a buddy that has a known good kit and test again before doing anything.
 
Ideally you want a salt that gives good levels right out of the bucket. However, that doesnt really exist like I said earlier. Most all of them are below accepted levels(IO) or above id one parameter or another(RC Coral pro Kent) so its good to do a search here for one of the thousands of "which salt" threads to get a feel for what numbers people get from what, then pick the one closest to your tank or under. Its far easier to raise numbers than lower when mixing. For your numbers I would think RC would be a good one. Thats what I use but like I said im likely gonna switch back to IO on my new tank cause mg is VERY high as well as cal and alk being on the higher side.

Its fine to use a salt that gives higher numbers than the tank as long as you know how much of a water change you can do to bring the tank levels back up without overshooting. But ideally, with a reactor like you have I would want it set to keep a stable cal and alk ratio that matches or is close to what the salt is so that when you do your water changes they only dilute things like nitrate and phosphate and replenish trace elements NOT raise or lower alk cal and mg. Make sense?
 
Ideally you want a salt that gives good levels right out of the bucket. However, that doesnt really exist like I said earlier. Most all of them are below accepted levels(IO) or above id one parameter or another(RC Coral pro Kent) so its good to do a search here for one of the thousands of "which salt" threads to get a feel for what numbers people get from what, then pick the one closest to your tank or under. Its far easier to raise numbers than lower when mixing. For your numbers I would think RC would be a good one. Thats what I use but like I said im likely gonna switch back to IO on my new tank cause mg is VERY high as well as cal and alk being on the higher side.

Its fine to use a salt that gives higher numbers than the tank as long as you know how much of a water change you can do to bring the tank levels back up without overshooting. But ideally, with a reactor like you have I would want it set to keep a stable cal and alk ratio that matches or is close to what the salt is so that when you do your water changes they only dilute things like nitrate and phosphate and replenish trace elements NOT raise or lower alk cal and mg. Make sense?

ok i will order elos test kit to see if everything is ok and i will test a sample of new water. I had the water mixed for abaout 24 ahours. will check also the api test that i have. I am concern about the refractometer too I think that it is time to change it. thank you for every thing
 
Oh for sure if you have any doubt about your salintiy measurer that would scream TROUBLE! Im guessing youre way high to get a dkh of 15. Seriously, is the mixing bin chalk white everywhere? pump too?

God I hope your tank makes it through this. Just remember how much $$$$$$$$$$ is riding on a few dollar test kit and refrac!
 
Oh, and youre welcome! Ive had my nose in this game a looooong time and I still dont know it all! So dont let this get you down, I promise, these things happen to EVERYONE at some point and some way!

Can you snap a new pic from the same coral you posted in the bigining? From the same angle so we can see how things are progressing? Oh AND DONT DO ANYTHING til you get that test kit and an accrate way of measuring salinity!
 
Oh for sure if you have any doubt about your salintiy measurer that would scream TROUBLE! Im guessing youre way high to get a dkh of 15. Seriously, is the mixing bin chalk white everywhere? pump too?

God I hope your tank makes it through this. Just remember how much $$$$$$$$$$ is riding on a few dollar test kit and refrac!

Yes I can see same white everywhere and on pump too in the mixing tank. Why? This always concern me but i thought that is normal.
 
I had a recent issue with STN/RTN event in my tank. I was running my alkalinity at 10-11 dkh which is WAY too high for a ULNS tank.

I let the alk creep down and all is well again!
 
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