Problem With Torch & Bubble Corals

umluis

New member
So, I've been easing myself into building my first fully reef tank and have encountered my first, and I'm sure not last, problem with my LPS corals - Torch & Bubble.

DSC03789.jpg

My Torch Coral had a branch of tentacles in the middle of all the others that recently retracted and left a red slime behind. All the other tentacles have not been extending as far as the should and appear deflated most of the time. It's been in the tank for a little over a week.

DSC03790.jpg

My Bubble Coral has been retracting from its skeleton (as seen on the left) and is doing just fine on the other side. It's also been growing pesky red algae on some of its "teeth" that may be hindering growth. This one has been in the tank for about 3 weeks and was doing GREAT for a while.

My water parameters have always been great, and my calcium is at a constant 450-475. I have not been monitoring other chemical levels (i.e. Magnesium, etc..)...should I be?

I also have 250watt/15000k MH lights that are on for about 2 hours out of the day with flourescents on the rest of the time. Do these corals require less intense light? Should I move them out of the direct light?

HELP!
 
How long has the tank been running? ammonia/nitrate? flow? what size tank?

2 hours is an awfully short time to leave MH on, most people typically go 8 - 10 hours with halides.

Sorry, I can't really be much help, but knowing these things will help others in helping you.

EDIT: That's a beautiful torch by the way!
 
Those corals don't need as much light as say SPS, but we have kept LPS under some pretty strong light as long as you acclimate them to it slowly.

Tell us more about the tank as well. All the water parameters that you do test, tank volume, dimensions, all lighting, etc...

Exactly how long had they been in the tank before they stopped looking good. Has anything been added to the tank recently?
 
Yeah, I think it's due to lack of lighting. 2 hours of MH isn't enough for most corals if the rest of the lighting is NO flourescents.
 
Bubble corals vary, but many don't do well with lots of lights.... Also, flow should be a consideration, LPS don't like too much flow.
You mentioned ca, but do you monitor alk? this is probably much more important...

And finnaly, do you feed them ever? once a month or so can go a long way with some corals.
 
Thanks for all the replies!

My tank is a 90g / running for 4 months / no ammonia or nitrates/nitrites (last it was tested earlier in the week) and varying flow throughout the tank;

- Torch in high flow area
- Bubble in low/med flow area

I will be going to the LFS this afternoon to have a thorough water test and should be able to report more accurate levels then.

The MH lights are only on for 2 hours, since I am in the process of acclimating everything to them - they were added 2 or 3 weeks ago. PLUS, I don't have a chiller or fans installed and have been closely monitoring my temperature. Typically, the tank starts at 78.9 degrees and goes up to 80.5 by the end of the light cycle.

If all is ok with my water parameters, should I try moving everything?

Suggestions?

Thanks Again!
 
The bubble looks to be on its last leg. Have you been feeding it? They need to be fed regularly. Looks like it might be too late to help it at this point though. What is your Alk level?
 
Just so you all can get a better picture of my tank, here it is:

DSC03787.jpg


The torch in on the bottom left corner.
 
I'd try leaving the lights on a good deal longer. If the the fluorescents you use are NO, you aren't getting enough light to keep anything alive. Placing the corals on the bottom of the tank(as you've done with the torch) will acclimate them well enough.

I don't think that temp change will really be enough to cause any serious harm, but others may know better.

As others have asked, what is your alk?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11981994#post11981994 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Craig Lambert
The bubble looks to be on its last leg. Have you been feeding it? They need to be fed regularly. Looks like it might be too late to help it at this point though. What is your Alk level?

I've been feeding it small pieces of shrimp.

I'll get back to you on the Alk.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11982004#post11982004 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigRedSpecial
As others have asked, what is your alk?

So, I tested everything as soon as I got back this afternoon. Here are the results:

PH - 8.3
ALK - 7 dKH
Calcium - 480
Temp - 80.8 F
Specific Gravity - 1.024
Ammonia - some trace (probably due to dieing corals)

I went to my LFS for advice, and they sent me home with:

Kent's Iodine (To add every 3 days)
Reef Solution (To add every 3 days)
B-Ionic - Component #1 (Alkalinity) & Component #2 (Calcium)

Now, I added everything except for Calcium...since it was high already.

How does this look to everyone?
 
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I'd scratch the Kent's Iodine (To add every 3 days) and Reef Solution (To add every 3 days). These are not necessary and may do more harm than good. You could move the torch up on the rocks; they do like lots of light. You said you have 1 MH? The bubble appears to be in a position where it is shaded. Most often bubbles do best in lower lighting, however there are some that prefer higher lighting, you could try moving it. However, I would still keep it in a low flow area.
 
I'm sure the problem is the ALK, with what test kit they did the test? add 1 teaspoon of baking soda or just some B-Ionic (cost a fortune), but raise it to 9

Get a good test kit like API/ELOS
 
Both of those corals, especially the bubble, tend to do better in lower light/flow. The bubbles are very delicate and have evolved to expand to increase their surface area to capture more light in their natural location-- underneath overhangs. Mine gets huge when it's in low light and very light current.

The torch has probably developed the brown jelly infection from an injury caused by being beaten to death by the current. They can tolerate more light but don't like getting the crap kicked out of them by currents.
 
m2434 -

I have 2 MH:

250 Watt
15000K

I also have a 10000k fluorescent with actinic.

Here's my typical light cycle:

11am - - Fluorescent & actinic turn on
1pm - - MH turn on (others stay on too)
3pm - - MH turn off
7pm - - Fluorescent & actinic turn off
7pm - - lunar lights turn on

I'm looking into buying a chiller/fans, and am afraid to leave the MH lights on too long...

About the RO/DI - I have been using Publix Spring Water and treat it with water conditions before topping off tank. Eventually, I would LOVE to have an automatic top-off system with an RO/DI filter.

I also forgot to mention - the bag that holds my carbon in the sump got stuck in the pump of my skimmer and caused it to shut down most of the day (at least). I fixed the problem, so let's see how things pan out.

Any suggestions?

I'm totally open to learning more about the hobby! :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11985704#post11985704 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Icefire
I'm sure the problem is the ALK, with what test kit they did the test? add 1 teaspoon of baking soda or just some B-Ionic (cost a fortune), but raise it to 9

Get a good test kit like API/ELOS

I bought a SERA kH Test Kit this afternoon from the LFS.

It reported an Alkalinity of 7, so I added some B-Ionic (Component #1 Alkalinity).

I'll let that settle over night and test everything again tomorrow.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11985716#post11985716 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by seapug
The torch has probably developed the brown jelly infection from an injury caused by being beaten to death by the current. They can tolerate more light but don't like getting the crap kicked out of them by currents.

You're right about the Torch Coral!

When I got it from the LFS, they didn't pack it very well, and it ended up loosing a few tentacle tips in transit! :/

I was totally bummed, but hopefully it'll pull through!

Thanks!
 
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