Project 180, a peninsula room divider LOG
- Thread starter chrisguy
- Start date
ReefingBuddha
New member
what would a good all floor covering be for a tank room? I have terra cotta tiles and am looking for something to help with weight distribution.
ReefingBuddha
New member
great... thank you
chrisguy
New member
Boy have I been busy!!! Unfortunately most of that busy time was not spent working on the tank. 
Progress on the Stand. The stand will be 42" tall. This is mainly due to the fact that the tank will divide two rooms. The tank will be located in the lower of the two rooms which is about 8" lower.
I used all 2x4's. Each corner is three 2x4's glued and screwed together.
There is also a pair of 2x4's in the center for additional support. The whole stand will be covered in 1/4" plywood (glued and screwed) for strength. This picture shows the back and peninsula side complete.
From the front you can see the two openings. These will be better framed and have removable panels. I decided not to use doors as I will not be in there too often. The side facing the wall is also open as no one will see that side.
Current status of the stand. All framing is complete and all sides, top and bottom has been covered in plywood.
I've started to do a lot of routing for the trim. None of it looks exciting, so there aren't any pictures.
Setback!!
About a week ago, I had added a couple bulkheads to the sump for extra drains. One of the bulkheads must have been over tightened, causing the acrylic to crack.
I added an acrylic patch and used plenty of Weld-on 16. I will water test it later this week.
Progress on the Stand. The stand will be 42" tall. This is mainly due to the fact that the tank will divide two rooms. The tank will be located in the lower of the two rooms which is about 8" lower.
I used all 2x4's. Each corner is three 2x4's glued and screwed together.
There is also a pair of 2x4's in the center for additional support. The whole stand will be covered in 1/4" plywood (glued and screwed) for strength. This picture shows the back and peninsula side complete.
From the front you can see the two openings. These will be better framed and have removable panels. I decided not to use doors as I will not be in there too often. The side facing the wall is also open as no one will see that side.
Current status of the stand. All framing is complete and all sides, top and bottom has been covered in plywood.
I've started to do a lot of routing for the trim. None of it looks exciting, so there aren't any pictures.
Setback!!
About a week ago, I had added a couple bulkheads to the sump for extra drains. One of the bulkheads must have been over tightened, causing the acrylic to crack.
I added an acrylic patch and used plenty of Weld-on 16. I will water test it later this week.
chrisguy
New member
Still working on the stand. I've primed the inside and painted the trim that will go on the outside.
Tonight I did a water change and saved the water in the refugium (top tank in the picture below), which is now about half full. I added a heater, power head and some Live Rock hoping to get a kick start on a pod population. I'm not planning on turning on the lights until the tank is up and running which will be in about 4 more weeks.
Question: I'm going to need a return pump and am estimating that the head will be about 14 feet vertical and about 4 feet horizontal (in reality it will be about 7 feet up, then about 4 feet over and then an additional 7 feet up to the top of the tank). Any pump recommendations?? I am looking at the Sequence Marlin thinking it would be about right for my application.
Tonight I did a water change and saved the water in the refugium (top tank in the picture below), which is now about half full. I added a heater, power head and some Live Rock hoping to get a kick start on a pod population. I'm not planning on turning on the lights until the tank is up and running which will be in about 4 more weeks.
Question: I'm going to need a return pump and am estimating that the head will be about 14 feet vertical and about 4 feet horizontal (in reality it will be about 7 feet up, then about 4 feet over and then an additional 7 feet up to the top of the tank). Any pump recommendations?? I am looking at the Sequence Marlin thinking it would be about right for my application.
chrisguy
New member
I'm reposting this as I could still use some assistance.
I've started to reconsider the Marlin and am now looking at the Wahoo, which will save me some $$ on power and the cost of the pump. I believe it will work perfect. Thoughts??
On a side note, the Stand is much further along, but still not complete. I am working on the trim tonight. Should have stand pictures in a couple days.
I've started to reconsider the Marlin and am now looking at the Wahoo, which will save me some $$ on power and the cost of the pump. I believe it will work perfect. Thoughts??
On a side note, the Stand is much further along, but still not complete. I am working on the trim tonight. Should have stand pictures in a couple days.
chrisguy
New member
Progress on the Stand
First picture shows the stand as it currently exists. I've got the waines coat paneling with top and bottom trim painted and attached. The inside is primed, and needs to be painted white. All of the grey trim on the top will also be painted the tan color. There is a cutout on the left. That is for a vent plate to allow for a fan to move some air in the stand as it will hold the closed loop pump and three MH Ballasts.
Next picture shows the back of the stand. The unfinished end will be facing the wall. I will be priming and painting the unfinished end. In addition I am making another stand component that will attach to this end to hide all of the plumbing and electrical.
Time for the big confession
I thought I had planned everything out perfectly to allow me to make a stand where the tank would sit inside the top trim and really look nice. My desire was to do it better than my last stand, which had a couple "issues" with the craftsmanship. Unfortunately I looked at the tank height measurement when planning the stand width and ended up making the stand an extra 2" wide. SO, I did a little planning on the fly and decided to put a more finished top to the stand and the tank will just site on top of the stand vs inside of it.
Last Hurtle
I’ve already decided that I will have a basement sump, to the point that it’s already setup and running. The holdup I’m having is where to put the holes to get to the basement. My options are listed below along with a picture of the location. I’ve include some details and/or my thoughts.
1 â€"œ Through the step. This I believe is my preferred route. My thoughts are that this is the easiest to repair after the tank is removed. The challenge will be getting through the stand and the step.
2 â€"œ Through the floor. This is the easiest and most direct route. I just put the Pergo floor in earlier this year. It’s the newer style that is lego like and just snaps together. I have extra pieces, so I could fix the Pergo floor, just not the sub floor.
3 â€"œ Through the wall. It’s an outside wall, but not impossible to get through. I could easily put a vent plate over the opening once the tank is moved. Just not sure how “clean†it would look.
Please feel free to comment and/or share your experiences. The dilemma is that I know we will be moving in about 5 years, so I don’t want to ruin the house or hurt our resale value with some holes in the wrong place.
First picture shows the stand as it currently exists. I've got the waines coat paneling with top and bottom trim painted and attached. The inside is primed, and needs to be painted white. All of the grey trim on the top will also be painted the tan color. There is a cutout on the left. That is for a vent plate to allow for a fan to move some air in the stand as it will hold the closed loop pump and three MH Ballasts.
Next picture shows the back of the stand. The unfinished end will be facing the wall. I will be priming and painting the unfinished end. In addition I am making another stand component that will attach to this end to hide all of the plumbing and electrical.
Time for the big confession
I thought I had planned everything out perfectly to allow me to make a stand where the tank would sit inside the top trim and really look nice. My desire was to do it better than my last stand, which had a couple "issues" with the craftsmanship. Unfortunately I looked at the tank height measurement when planning the stand width and ended up making the stand an extra 2" wide. SO, I did a little planning on the fly and decided to put a more finished top to the stand and the tank will just site on top of the stand vs inside of it.
Last Hurtle
I’ve already decided that I will have a basement sump, to the point that it’s already setup and running. The holdup I’m having is where to put the holes to get to the basement. My options are listed below along with a picture of the location. I’ve include some details and/or my thoughts.
1 â€"œ Through the step. This I believe is my preferred route. My thoughts are that this is the easiest to repair after the tank is removed. The challenge will be getting through the stand and the step.
2 â€"œ Through the floor. This is the easiest and most direct route. I just put the Pergo floor in earlier this year. It’s the newer style that is lego like and just snaps together. I have extra pieces, so I could fix the Pergo floor, just not the sub floor.
3 â€"œ Through the wall. It’s an outside wall, but not impossible to get through. I could easily put a vent plate over the opening once the tank is moved. Just not sure how “clean†it would look.
Please feel free to comment and/or share your experiences. The dilemma is that I know we will be moving in about 5 years, so I don’t want to ruin the house or hurt our resale value with some holes in the wrong place.
Kentanner11
New member
2- I would say through the floor, because you can replace just that piece(s) of the pergo rather than a wall pannel or going through the step where you might hit concreate? (idk, Im no builder) but when moving I would just add a few 2/4 in the spot where you cut it out.
Hey were you thinking of making individual holes or a big square
chunk to run many lines through?
Hey were you thinking of making individual holes or a big square
chunk to run many lines through?
savethereef
SCRK
wow this is gonna rock. i cant wait to see water in there.
chrisguy
New member
Thanks for the feedback. I have decided that it would be easier to fix the floor having got some similar feedback in our local club forum.
I haven't made that decision yet. Some of it will depend on exactly where the stand sits over the joists and the placement of the CL pump. All I can say is ...... Stay Tuned !!
I haven't made that decision yet. Some of it will depend on exactly where the stand sits over the joists and the placement of the CL pump. All I can say is ...... Stay Tuned !!
Kentanner11
New member
If I were doing it I would do a square, cause I can run more pipe any time, with out making room and it will be alot easier to fill a square than a hole.
jwccwj
New member
Nice work chrisguy,I love the peninsula tank idea.I was considering a similar set-up myself and I was wondering if you ever considered having the returns come up over the top but from the far end of the tank pushing any surface crud towards the overflows?Is your tank going to be enclosed in a cabinet, if so you would hardly notice the returns coming up the far side anyway.Im just throwing the idea out there may be many reasons why this would not work.
I am working on my 220 peninsula at this time also. I have a dart to run a closed loop system on a O.M. 4 way pushing the water towards one end with the returns setup as mentioned above over the top and pointing toward the overflow, in addition to 2 returns will be left and right of the overflow pointing down and toward the front for even more turn over. so this should work as mentioned.
Brian
Brian
chrisguy
New member
Spleef â€"œ Tell me about it 
jwccwj â€"œ Right now the plan is to have the returns come up over the top on the side nearest the overflow box. I will have 2 of the 4 outlets from the OM-4way on the far side of the tank and hopefully with them angled towards the surface it will keep the “scum†moving in the right direction. If that does not work, I will make adjustments.
Barky â€"œ Thanks for the feedback. Sounds just like what I am planning, same equipment and everything. BTW, do you have a tank build thread?? I’d love to see your progress and what you are planning and/or doing. It’s never too late to get some good ideas from someone else.
On a separate note, I stopped by Petco before work today and picked up a 40 breeder to keep as a QT tank. My old 30 breeder served that purpose but since I installed it as a dedicated refugium I felt it was necessary to get a new QT tank. Since the price was right, $1 per gallon, I could not pass it up. Seems like there has been a outbreak of ICH in our local reef forum. I’ve been there and done that and I don’t EVER want to go down that road again!!
jwccwj â€"œ Right now the plan is to have the returns come up over the top on the side nearest the overflow box. I will have 2 of the 4 outlets from the OM-4way on the far side of the tank and hopefully with them angled towards the surface it will keep the “scum†moving in the right direction. If that does not work, I will make adjustments.
Barky â€"œ Thanks for the feedback. Sounds just like what I am planning, same equipment and everything. BTW, do you have a tank build thread?? I’d love to see your progress and what you are planning and/or doing. It’s never too late to get some good ideas from someone else.
On a separate note, I stopped by Petco before work today and picked up a 40 breeder to keep as a QT tank. My old 30 breeder served that purpose but since I installed it as a dedicated refugium I felt it was necessary to get a new QT tank. Since the price was right, $1 per gallon, I could not pass it up. Seems like there has been a outbreak of ICH in our local reef forum. I’ve been there and done that and I don’t EVER want to go down that road again!!
Chris
at the time no I do not have a thread going, way to busy but I can bounce some ideas off you if your looking for some.
My closed loop runs down the bottom and centered according to my reef structure, then I have a Tee here, it branches out to each side of the tank. giving me a total of 8 returns for the fourway. These all point to one end of the tank then the return from the sump pushes this all back to the overflow creating alot of turbulence. I will try to get pictures but as now my tank was just placed on the stand.
Brian
at the time no I do not have a thread going, way to busy but I can bounce some ideas off you if your looking for some.
My closed loop runs down the bottom and centered according to my reef structure, then I have a Tee here, it branches out to each side of the tank. giving me a total of 8 returns for the fourway. These all point to one end of the tank then the return from the sump pushes this all back to the overflow creating alot of turbulence. I will try to get pictures but as now my tank was just placed on the stand.
Brian
