Project save my tank.

I have not. I know that the salt is a big seller in Chicago, and the Store in Decatur as switch there whole store to Tropic Marin.
 
A similar but not really instance going on in my tank, I have no fish and I'm getting cyano badly. I couldn't really figure mine out, I have good flow, and my nitrates and phosphates are low, and I only have Compacts on mine so light was low. But it's a new tank, and I didn't have a skimmer on for the first few months, so like I said. Similar but all together different. I guess I'm just posting to let you know You aren't the only one currently with crappy conditions in the tank. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12172806#post12172806 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DARKSILENTTYPE
Mark are you going to the thing on Thursday . If so I will bring my Hanna meter and you can test your PO4 .

John
Click to expand...

John I plan to, I can probably bring a container of water.


Lonnie I went from IO to Reef Crystals last year, this is my second bucket from them.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12173967#post12173967 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Markk96
John I plan to, I can probably bring a container of water.


Lonnie I went from IO to Reef Crystals last year, this is my second bucket from them.
Click to expand...


Sounds good I will bring it with me .

John
 
Mark, what bulbs are you using? How much actinic light do you have on the tank. Is it possible to siphon it out, or does it stick to the rock like hair algae?
 
I am using 2 20k 400W XM Bulbs and 2 20K 250W XM Bulbs, no actinic at all.

It is really slimey and some of it sticks to the rock, but most of it not. I have a little hair algae to. But this stuff sucks compared to that.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12171135#post12171135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Nanook
Summarized solutions:

1. Reduce available nutrients in the water. These include nitrate and especially phosphate. In a severe case, the concerns with driving phosphate too low may be minor compared to the dinoflagellates (and their toxins). In addition to the usual ways of reducing nutrients (skimming, growing macroalgae, deep sand beds, etc.), aquarists should consider very aggressive use of granular ferric oxide (GFO). Putting a larger than normally recommended amount into a canister filter or reactor, and changing it every few days, may help. Don't bother to measure the phosphate level, because the goal is to have it well below normally detectable levels (say, 0.02 ppm).

2. Reduce the photoperiod to four hours per day. This may help to keep the dinoflagellates under control, but by itself will not usually eradicate them.

3. Use more than normal amounts of activated carbon, and possibly ozone, to deal with toxins that the dinoflagellates may be releasing. This may allow snails and other organisms to survive while the dinoflagellates are still at nuisance levels.

4. Manually siphon out as much of the mass of dinoflagellates as possible. Daily removal would be preferable to keep populations at a reduced level.
Click to expand...

I too had a battle with dynos, not fun at all. My biggest problem was phosphates, I changed the phos removal media every 3 days. I blame the phos problem on several pounds of rock I added that were saturated. I did the above measures paired with 2 10% water changes a week. It still took several weeks, but it seemed like it finally disappeared over just 2 days.

Keep on it, you can do it!!
 
Ok here is what I have done for the past couple of days.

I had my lights off for all day yesterday and all but 3 hours tonight. There are not much dinos but that may change.

I did a 20% water change and tested the salt and it looked good.

I tested my tank water and my alk was what I think low at 8.0 DKH. So I will slowly bring that up for the next 2 days to around 9.5 DKH

I think it dropped because of my change out of GFO. I had to order more yesterday so I got a bulk supply of it.

I replaced my carbon and plan to do so every 48 hours. I plan on doing another water change on Friday.

We will see what this does for me.
 
:thumbsup: I don't think I would worry too much about the water changes, just reduce photoperiod and run that new GFO.
 
Mark

I have my meter with me so when you bring the sample tonight you want to also bring a container of your RO water as well .

John
 
Ok, here is the latest, things are looking better with the Algae, I have been doing 48 hour carbon changing and weekly GFO.

My lighting period is 4 hours.

I have lost 2 SPS to this already, and my colors have faded.

So I am going to research what to do next.
 
Hoping you didn't deplete alk suddenly with too much GFO too fast? What is your alk running?
 
I have been dosing some Part 1 of Randy's additive and I am keeping it around 9.5, it had dropped to 8.0
 
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