Project - Super Silent 60

votek

New member
Now that my new tank is officially ordered I figured I would start a thread for it as I will be building up a custom stand for it with a few special design ideas I've been kicking around.

Goals and Highlights
  • Silent - It will be in one of my main living areas. I want it to be as silent as possible.
  • Efficient - Aiming for high efficiency lightning and heating.
  • Corals - SPS/LPS
  • Fish - TBD
  • Go-Plus-One - Most everything will be one step larger/better than needed.
  • Remote Control - I'm a computer geek at heart, I have to be able to play with it from my iphone.

Custom Stand
Since I am living in an upstairs apartment, while plenty large enough, I am cautious of weight limits. The structure of the tank is going to be designed to maximize the footprint and distribute weight as evenly as possible.

In addition to the structure, I am planning to have access doors on both the side and front for two reasons. First, I want to be able to easily accommodate a pre-built sump without having to build the stand up around it. For this purpose I will have side access doors which allow me to slide the sump in from the side. Second, it will give me additional access for equipment and storage without getting things too cramped inside the stand.
Another key will be to have the DT raised higher. I read about a couple other members of URS doing this with their stands and I really liked the idea. :beer: I'm looking at having the bottom of the tank sit between 3.5-4ft. I'm cautious here with stability, which will be taken into account.

Thankfully my father happens to be very good with woodworking and will be helping me out with this. :bounce3:

Tank and Equipment

Display Tank
TRUVU 60g "Reef Ready" tank. I went with acrylic this time mostly because I've done glass before and felt like something different. I also don't have to worry about high traffic or kids around the tank (yet :lol:); plus there is a nice weight reduction bonus.

I also went with the optional center-mount internal overflow for a larger surface area for water movement.

Sump / Refugium
I'm still narrowing it down to a few options. I could go DIY or just get a pre-built unit. I'm partial to the pre-built route simply because I had poor results last time I attempted this.

In any case, I do plan to run a small-mid refugium with a bit of live rock.

Lightning
2x Reeftech Prometheus LED fixtures. http://www.reeftechled.com/

Pumps & Other Stuff
Remember, G+1.
- Poseidon PS4. Silent; helps heat tank.
- EchoTech MP40 Vortech. Will test circulation before deciding on addition flow, which I am anticipating I will need.
- SWC 160 Cone Skimmer.
- Neptune APEX controller

This all falls under "Phase 1", which is everything up to putting Corals/Fish in. I will likely be adding a calcium reactor once I get Corals going.

I will have photos going once we get under way with the stand.
 
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Sounds like an awesome build, and I really like your "Go-Plus One" approach. Too many people cheap out in the beginning and it causes headaches down the line. A few thoughts, if I may...

-Why ReefTech LEDs? I don't know much about them personally. Have you considered going with AquaIllumination?

-Any specific reason for the Poseidon? External pump... correct?

-In regards to the sump, go as big as you can fit. Advance Acrylics made me an awesome sump, but DIY is obviously much cheaper.

-Have you considered two MP10's vs. one MP40? I'm partial to MP10's, mainly because of the footprint and GPH rating.

You'll love the Apex; mine isn't hooked up to my iPhone, but it's nice to be able to have that option. Good luck, I'll be following along! :)
 
Thank you for the thoughts.

I have chosen to go with ReefTech LEDs because of how much more powerful they are, as a unit, than the SOLs. I also would need 4 SOL LED's to cover my 48" tank. Part of this is because they are less powerful and the other that they use optics. The RT's don't. A single RT unit is more powerful and capable of covering more area than the SOL. RT has been able to grow LPS corals on a 54x30x30, 200g, tank using 1 single fixture (granted there were some dark spots). The results from the reeftech thread also indicate that this is a very strong fixture.

I am certain from these results that I will be able to cover 24x24 of tank space using 2 RT's without any dark spots and have it be cheaper to setup then 4 SOL fixtures.

------

On the Poseidon pump; yes. It is external, super quiet, and will help with heat (as it is water cooled). This should also be more reliable in the long run over some of the other submersible pumps.

------

I will have to seriously consider your suggestions on the MP10's and the AA sump; will need to do a bit more research on it but the Sump is next up to purchase as it will have a key role in how much room I need to account for under the stand.

Thanks again for the input!
 
As far as silent, check my build thread. It has links to silent overflow set ups, and sound dampening schemes for under tank sumps.
 
DIY a LED setup with dimmable ballasts and a DIY Arduino type controller to control basically everything on your tank on your IPhone to your specifications/ liking.
Everything mentioned here could be found in our own DIY forum and on arduino.cc
 
Seaweed,
I'd like to leave the DIY route as a last resort if I cannot find something that will work. To me, it is a matter of having something that will be reliable and is built right.

Right now I am waiting to see some Par numbers for a new Pac Sun unit that came out this month.

The other option is waiting a bit and ordering a Vertex unit.
 
So, I decided I am going to give the retro route a shot and will be putting together an LED kit inside my old CFL fixture.
Also, my Truvu tank is on the way and should be arriving soon.
 

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So, I went ahead an committed to the LED build tonight. Attached are a couple shots of what I am planning to house the LED's in. I am also planning to re-use the reflector that came with the unit as I am NOT going to be using optics on this kit.

The build includes:

- 24 Cree XP-E LEDs (Cool white)
- 24 Cree XP-E LEDs (royal blue)

- (x2) Mean Well ELN-60-48P dimmable driver
- (x2) Power cords
- (x50) Solderless LED holders
- (x2) 22" x 5.88" x 1" (LWH) aluminum heatsinks

- Arctic silver thermal paste

This is practically the same thing that david built but with slightly different wiring plan and designed to run them at 650ma.
Led-Lights-Chart-2-lines-12-small.jpg
 
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Here are the shots I was talking about

In the first photo you will see the reflector I plan to reuse. I may need to trim the 90 degree side shrouds depending on clearances. I will need to trim the old bulb holders on the reflector off.

The second photo shows a bracket that I am going to need to get get made. Even if I had gone with 1 single 44" heatsink, I would have still wanted a third bracket in the middle to help with strength.
 

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david, I will go ahead and do that, even thought it means having to run 2 more drivers :(

Also, what power supply did you use with yours? I see I am going to need that once I setup an Apex unit.
 
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So after talking with Bill @ Reef LED's, this is the setup I will be running:

12x XP-G Whites
24x XP-E Royal Blues
12x XP-E Whites
4x Meanwell 60-48 drivers
 
And the first parts arrive...

Parts are all here, including the heatsinks. I will be doing some sizing / fitting this weekend to see how I am going to mount them.

Also included were the solderless connectors for the led's, which will make it easy to replace when/if any go bad.

The last 2 pictures show how they connect to the LED and how they "pinch" the wires that are hooked up.

I will be going with solid 18 gauge wire for this setup.
 

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Thanks!

I did a little test fitting tonight, trying to get an idea of what the mounting and spacing is going to look like once everything is in.

Keep in mind, I am going to be re-using the reflector that came with the original lamp as I am not going to be running lenses and I'd like to focus as much of the light as possible.

The enclosure is actually really nicely designed for this, with the grommet for the writes and the spacing on the ends for cooling fans.

I'm not sure yet if I am going to even need cooling fans or if just cutting some venting holes / ducts in the top of the enclosure will work.
 

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