Proof that Oceanic Salt is BAD!!!!

You would think that if he had been using it since it came out and if Oceanic is having such bad problems with QC, wouldn't the odds be that he would have gotten a bad bucket by now?
 
Silencer said:



This may be true, but many other people have not detected any silicates or phosphates yet claim to have had the brown growth. Because of this it seems that there is a good chance that the cause is something completely different that we aren't or can't test for and that's why I'm so skeptical about so many people claiming it's the salt. Tanks get algae blooms and other problems that seemingly appear out of nowhere for no reason, even well kept tanks sometimes, and since we don't really know what this brown growth is or what's causing it I just don't think it's as simple as putting 2 and 2 together.


Not really... Most people donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t use good test kits that read low enough..... Plus it could also mean the algae that grows has consumed the phosphate......
How many times do you see posts that state I have algae and I have 0 phosphate and 0 nitrate etc... Obviously they have phosphate or they would not have algae.. Plus if it was zero you coral would die anyway... They do need some phosphate.. So those people did something wrongââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¦

Dave
 
Speaking of consistency. I would like to get some consensus on what test kits every one is using. In other words if one is going to purport opinions as fact on if a salt is bad, should those testing be comparing results with others using the same test kits? I use Salifert btw. Anyone have a problem with that?!? ;-)
 
What is so strange about the notion that there might be inconsistencies between batches?

I would never question that people have had problems with it, just saying that I havent. I would understand it if all of my buckets were bought from the same batch, but I have bought many buckets from different sources, at different times, and have never had a single problem. IMO alot of people need scape-goats for problems in there systems, and "bad salt" is the en vogue scape-goat right now it seems.
 
Well, I have a little bit more anecdotal evidence concerning Oceanic salt and whether it's any good. I read about the original test that mojodeli did, so although I didn't consider it "proof," I thought there was a chance my Oceanic salt could do the same thing. So last night I mixed up a gallon and let it sit in the sunlight all day today. I just got home and looked at it, and the first thing I noticed was that the water had a brownish tinge to it. I know I'm not imagining things, because I had a gallon of plain water to compare it to. I don't see anything growing on the sides of the jug I used, but it's only been 24 hours. I'm going to let it sit another couple days in the light to see how much worse it gets. I need to get another brand of salt and try the same thing so I can be sure it's actually the salt, though, so while I'm not ready to draw a conclusion I am concerned.
 
More fuel for the fire.

I have a 180G reef with 9 fish and 9 corals (mostly LPS). ETSS 800 skimmer, 2 Tunze 6100, and Iwaki 55RLT for return pump.

I changed from Reef Crystals to Oceanic about 4 months ago because I read that it has much higher calcium levels than RC.

When I was using RC I was using B-Ionic to keep the Calc levels above 350, but my substrate started to clump together. I saw the Oceanic at the LFS and gave it a try.

Before I switched I was battling a moderate hair algae problem and cayno problem. When I switch I started doing 7% water changes twice a week. Cleaning my ETSS skimmer, and filter sock twice a week, changing 3 cups of carbon once a week. In addition to this more diligent routine, I added a tunze to the system to increase flow.

My Nitrates/Nitrites/Ammonia are always 0, Phosphate with the use of Phosban is always .2 PPM(my well water has very high phosphates and even the RO/DI system does not remove them to undetectable levels), PH 8.1, Temp 79-81, 11 Hour Light Period with 400 Watts 6700K/1000K PC, and 200 Watts True Actinic, use RO/DI system to process well water

Over a 6 week period my algae and cyano issue disappeared. For the most part, I have kept up my maintenance routine as listed above.

About 8 weeks ago I started to notice the algae come back. Green micro algae on the back glass and brown slime algae on some of my Live rock. More slime algae where the tank has some natural indirect light. I also changed my PC lights during that period from 6700 and 7100 blue to true actinic and dual 10000K/6700K Sunpaq.

I've gone through 2 more buckets of Oceanic and cannot seem to improve on the algae situation. I couldn't help think that the brown slime algae that I see are what other people are describing on reef central.

At this point, I am going to try a move to Tropic Marin. Just ordered a couple buckets from Bigalsonline.com.

I'll keep you all posted to see if this makes any difference. I liked the Oceanic salt because it mixes easy and the calc level is always high, but I need to prove to myself that something else is causing my brown algae problem and not the salt.
 
well thanks a lot jkapit
this thread was finally starting to decompose into nothingness and then you had to go and fan the flames!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
;-)

(for those of you with absolutely no sense of humor I am only kidding)
 
Ebacon,

Your welcome!!

Hey, after I try Tropic Marin over the next 400gallons of water changes and nothing improves I'll be the first to admit I have some other nutrient export problem .

If it does improve, then the flames will burn on.........and on....
 
flaunt said:
Well, I have a little bit more anecdotal evidence concerning Oceanic salt and whether it's any good. I read about the original test that mojodeli did, so although I didn't consider it "proof," I thought there was a chance my Oceanic salt could do the same thing. So last night I mixed up a gallon and let it sit in the sunlight all day today. I just got home and looked at it, and the first thing I noticed was that the water had a brownish tinge to it. I know I'm not imagining things, because I had a gallon of plain water to compare it to. I don't see anything growing on the sides of the jug I used, but it's only been 24 hours. I'm going to let it sit another couple days in the light to see how much worse it gets. I need to get another brand of salt and try the same thing so I can be sure it's actually the salt, though, so while I'm not ready to draw a conclusion I am concerned.

Are you using RO/DI water?
 
RO/DI is irrelevant in Flaunt's case. Because he used a control (the other bucket), if it would of been the water, it would of algaed up regardless in both buckets.
 
jay24k said:
RO/DI is irrelevant in Flaunt's case. Because he used a control (the other bucket), if it would of been the water, it would of algaed up regardless in both buckets.

Actually I didn't use a control (yet), which is why I said that I wasn't going to draw any conclusions (yet). :) I need to get another salt, but I don't know which one to try. I have heard some bad things about virtually every salt on the market.
 
I believe he said he IS using an RO/DI however he is using it on well water hence the remaining .2ppm phosphates.
 
I personally have no experience with Oceanic, but when I tried Aqua Medic I developed a slime algae problem that has now receded since I went back to IO. The only thing I picked up was that the alk was a bit lower in the AM, but there are obviously little differences between brands that are going to favour different organisms.
Where do Oceanic make their salt?
 
I've used Oceanic as well and have had the nasty brown algae everyone else is talking about. I'm currently switching to IO and will have to wait and see the results. Oh, the batch number from mine was 3509. It seems to me that the people who have been having problems started getting them weeks, to months after starting to use the salt. Which in my case is the same story. I also find it odd that someone mentioned Oceanic knowing about these posts why they haven't made any comment on it yet? To me this seems like a company who doesn't want to extinguish the fire.
 
Ok guys, just my opinion here but..............isnt 16 pages on this thread enough? Im not pointing fingers, everyone has there own experiences and as a responsible hobbiest we need to do whats best for our own tanks. If it means changing salts then change, no big deal. I think we've poked this thing from every angle and Ive yet to see where its going. Im pretty sure Oceanic has heard about this thread and unless someone here is in QC for them, and can give some professional input then I think we're beatin a dead horse.
 
You only have to read the first page to see that this was someones unproven opinion and not worth the wasted storage on the server.
 
I have followed this thread from the start.
1 I have noticed nobody wil agree
2 I have NEVER seen an Oceanic person respond. Let me guess they are not RC sponors)
3 we will never agree

To sum it all up, when I gave my 2 cents pages ago, I was just stating the facts of our club. Like I said back then what we did was NO Harvard study! We just could not prove the salt was bad. Does that mean it was?? I have no real clue, I am not a chemist! Maybe its coincedence, maybe its not. Like I said a few weeks ago and to answer whomever answered me then I dont use Oceanic because of what I have read on RC, except during our experiments (which nothing happened ) So I stuck to using IO. So I can claim twice I did switch, but to no ill effect. Go figure huh:) Anyway I have read and read about this and I have seen names I look up to complaining. So I will sign off with the fact I HAVE NO IDEA WHATS UP. (I would like to have an answer one day, but I doubt it)
 
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