I would ordinarily not suggest a radical tank experiment in the newbie forum, but I can see no downside to this except better water with no harm to either fish or corals. And I can't find any other RC population MORE apt to have new fish.
Proposition: that ich and disease may be significantly less common in tanks, reef or FoWlr, where water quality is equal to that of a coral reef. (I am hoping those who get involved in this will see a benefit of less ich and other disease.)
what I'm asking, for anybody interested in trying this, is that everybody get the following: a live rock only tank, no filter; a skimmer adequate for your tank; no sump ok in smaller tank; a refractometer; ro/di water; a dkh alkalinity test (Salifert or anybody who returns you dkh scale numbers); dkh buffer (I use Kent); calcium test that gives you readings like 390, 420, etc. I use Salifert; a Calcium supplement (I use Kent). 2 part is good.; a digital thermometer; a Magnesium test kit (supplement probably not needed yet); a consistent brand of salt (any salt: just stick with one brand). And a commitment to log your results---with a disposition to be brutally honest about whether you quarantined a fish---or not.
Anybody interested?
What I would ask is that everybody just report in as wanting to try it; ask questions where you may get confused about testing or additives (very, very scant additives, and maybe not needed in FOWLR: hold off on buying calcium additive for FOWLR unless you turn out to need it). Then just go to it. Bring your tank params to those levels, be you reef or FoWLR. And track your progress: note any point at which your tank had to be corrected; note fish health, etc.
And report in how your old fish are doing, how any new fish are doing, what species you have, and whether you are staying disease free.
Kind of a pricey sort of trial, because it bumps you up to reef-quality stuff earlier than most, but if the premise is right it might also save some money.
The params you would need to hit:
1. salinity 1.024-6.
2. alkalinity 8.3-9.3 dkh
3. calcium: 400-420
4. magnesium 1200-1300
5. temperature about 80, give or take 2 degrees in either direction.
Keep your water on those marks and don't let it fluctuate. A topoff unit is an asset in this.
Report in if you have a fish come down with ich, or if you have a new fish and you're satisfied they're NOT coming down with ich or other malady as they get settled. It would be really interesting if we could knock the incidence of ich way, way down. Of course your qt water would be taken from your 'perfect' tank, so you would have that check in qt also. And if you don't qt, well, you know what we advise: but chime in anyway. Here I'm not interested in preaching about quarantine, just finding out what people's results are and how they relate to tanks successful with water quality.
Anyone interested in trying?
Proposition: that ich and disease may be significantly less common in tanks, reef or FoWlr, where water quality is equal to that of a coral reef. (I am hoping those who get involved in this will see a benefit of less ich and other disease.)
what I'm asking, for anybody interested in trying this, is that everybody get the following: a live rock only tank, no filter; a skimmer adequate for your tank; no sump ok in smaller tank; a refractometer; ro/di water; a dkh alkalinity test (Salifert or anybody who returns you dkh scale numbers); dkh buffer (I use Kent); calcium test that gives you readings like 390, 420, etc. I use Salifert; a Calcium supplement (I use Kent). 2 part is good.; a digital thermometer; a Magnesium test kit (supplement probably not needed yet); a consistent brand of salt (any salt: just stick with one brand). And a commitment to log your results---with a disposition to be brutally honest about whether you quarantined a fish---or not.
Anybody interested?
What I would ask is that everybody just report in as wanting to try it; ask questions where you may get confused about testing or additives (very, very scant additives, and maybe not needed in FOWLR: hold off on buying calcium additive for FOWLR unless you turn out to need it). Then just go to it. Bring your tank params to those levels, be you reef or FoWLR. And track your progress: note any point at which your tank had to be corrected; note fish health, etc.
And report in how your old fish are doing, how any new fish are doing, what species you have, and whether you are staying disease free.
Kind of a pricey sort of trial, because it bumps you up to reef-quality stuff earlier than most, but if the premise is right it might also save some money.
The params you would need to hit:
1. salinity 1.024-6.
2. alkalinity 8.3-9.3 dkh
3. calcium: 400-420
4. magnesium 1200-1300
5. temperature about 80, give or take 2 degrees in either direction.
Keep your water on those marks and don't let it fluctuate. A topoff unit is an asset in this.
Report in if you have a fish come down with ich, or if you have a new fish and you're satisfied they're NOT coming down with ich or other malady as they get settled. It would be really interesting if we could knock the incidence of ich way, way down. Of course your qt water would be taken from your 'perfect' tank, so you would have that check in qt also. And if you don't qt, well, you know what we advise: but chime in anyway. Here I'm not interested in preaching about quarantine, just finding out what people's results are and how they relate to tanks successful with water quality.
Anyone interested in trying?