u must caulk the finished bottom to your foundation sill really well. really u should replace the standard drywall with (greenboard or blueboard) for a moisture prof barrier built into your wall. green or blue( same thing ) is always used in high moisture applications , whether or not they r to be painted, tiled, or covered with any other product
Protecting Drywall
- Thread starter WarDaddy
- Start date
WarDaddy
New member
rivdog,
I understand what you are saying, but my wife will not allow that to happen. We just bought a new house, there is no way she is going to let me tear it apart any more than I have to.
I am going to coat the wall with 4 coats of paint, Caulk everywhere I need to, and then I will cover the wall with a heavy mil plastic. I will silicone the seams of the plastic, top and bottom, so it should be pretty sealed. This is a budget set up, and my budget is getting eaten up FAST!
I understand what you are saying, but my wife will not allow that to happen. We just bought a new house, there is no way she is going to let me tear it apart any more than I have to.
I am going to coat the wall with 4 coats of paint, Caulk everywhere I need to, and then I will cover the wall with a heavy mil plastic. I will silicone the seams of the plastic, top and bottom, so it should be pretty sealed. This is a budget set up, and my budget is getting eaten up FAST!
cstires
New member
I think if you do that you'll be fine. I don't care if you use regular drywall, green/blue board or any other type of drywall, it will NOT hold up to water baths no matter how much paint is applied. Paint is breathable, therefore water can still enter the wall.
The difference with an exterior wall is one, most of the houses here are block, and if there wood, they've been covered with a siding or some other material to prevent water intrusion.
Paint it, put some plastic up, and happy spraying!
The difference with an exterior wall is one, most of the houses here are block, and if there wood, they've been covered with a siding or some other material to prevent water intrusion.
Paint it, put some plastic up, and happy spraying!
RandyStacyE
New member
That depends on what coating material is used. If you use some 'paint' (no performance claimed and no tech data to speak of) I wouldn't expect much out of the 'paint'.
If you use a high performance coating (proven performance and tech data to back it up) you can expect to be able to pressure wash your drywall on a daily basis. That's what high performance coatings are for.
Of course poured concrete has much higher compression strength than drywall so using an 8,000 psi pressure washer may blast the coated drywall apart, but were talkin about washing.
WarDaddy
New member
This has been a great thread... I just wsh I could have built the room myself.
That "paint" Randy is promoting is exactly what I want to use, inface I may still buy some, and use it to line plywood tanks, If I can not find the tanks I want.
Thanks for all the great ideas... DAMN budgets make this hobby no fun!
That "paint" Randy is promoting is exactly what I want to use, inface I may still buy some, and use it to line plywood tanks, If I can not find the tanks I want.
Thanks for all the great ideas... DAMN budgets make this hobby no fun!
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I do not fully agree with this. There are hundreds of thousands (millions) of wood sided houses that have lasted hundreds of years with paint.
Again we are not talking about a steam room.
It is not that I am against FRP or any vapor proof coating. I am just not convinced that it is worth the trouble. We have club members that have hundreds (thousands) of gallons of water in their living areas and they are not waterproofed. Of course the humidity has to be dealt with and they do not hose down the walls and cieling....
Hosing down a well painted wall on occasion should not be a problem. Now if you want to hose it down weekly that is different.
As I mentioned, creating a "vapor barrier" over an existing "vapor barrier" can spell disaster due to moisture trapped between the two. THERE WILL BE vapor behind you waterproof wall! You do not want to trap it there if you can help it. The wall should breathe and onlyu have one vapor barrier to prevent condensation from traveling between the two surfaces of the wall.
The condensation is a bigger concern that the splashing water.
Maybe the better way to approach this is to understand the whall construction we are dealing with in the first place :0
Open to thoughts....
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I am a bump skier... not many good bumps here in western PA. I have a friend who lives in Winter Park, but don't get out to visit him very often. But yeah we could go anytime you want (have not been this year!)
Bean
RandyStacyE
New member
Well my garage is definitely insulated (I did that myself) I used faced insulation. I did not use a plastic sheet vapor barrier. I was planning on finishing up the wiring and plumbing and begin dry walling.
I had the sheet plastic then returned it. I was told by some home builders that it isn't necessary especially if I used faced insulation and did a good job. I'm no expert (they may be wrong), but I took their advice. This is just my garage (2 stories), it will be heated and the game room will be in the upper level (it’s all unfinished now). Heating it is a problem of its own (unrelated).
I’m planning to coat the walls in my garage (lower level) and within the false walls (which will contain the in-wall aquariums).
I had the sheet plastic then returned it. I was told by some home builders that it isn't necessary especially if I used faced insulation and did a good job. I'm no expert (they may be wrong), but I took their advice. This is just my garage (2 stories), it will be heated and the game room will be in the upper level (it’s all unfinished now). Heating it is a problem of its own (unrelated).
I’m planning to coat the walls in my garage (lower level) and within the false walls (which will contain the in-wall aquariums).
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Yes the craft paper facing is a good vapor barrier as long as you do a decent installation job.
We can look at this two ways... If you seal the room fairly tight you will have higher humidity to deal with in the room. No matter how well you seal the room, that humidity will still wick into the walls and possibly the living area.
We can also look at it from the whole garage perspective and leave the room not so tightly sealed. This poses some problems of it's own but would lower the overall humidity local to the tank rooms and spread it out through the garage (and possibly the second story walls etc.
In either case ventillation driven by a humidistat and possibly a dehumidifier would be a good idea.
Placing FRP or any other vapor barrier OVER the drywall is going to sandwich the drywall between two vapor barriers and certainly create a moist sandwich. Air will move from warmer areas to colder areas and will condensate. The higher humidity due to the fish tanks is going to certainly make this worse.
I think I would opt for plywood or OSB walls in either case. I would aso consider using paint where possible and if you MUST have waterproof walls in the fish rooms, I would certainly use exhaust fans to move the humid air out and keep it in check. Otherwise it will tend to migrate through the inwall openings and cause problems in your living space.
Insulating the false walls will also be a good idea and help keep the garage cold out of the fishroom and house.
Are you able to provide us with a top down plan?
We can look at this two ways... If you seal the room fairly tight you will have higher humidity to deal with in the room. No matter how well you seal the room, that humidity will still wick into the walls and possibly the living area.
We can also look at it from the whole garage perspective and leave the room not so tightly sealed. This poses some problems of it's own but would lower the overall humidity local to the tank rooms and spread it out through the garage (and possibly the second story walls etc.
In either case ventillation driven by a humidistat and possibly a dehumidifier would be a good idea.
Placing FRP or any other vapor barrier OVER the drywall is going to sandwich the drywall between two vapor barriers and certainly create a moist sandwich. Air will move from warmer areas to colder areas and will condensate. The higher humidity due to the fish tanks is going to certainly make this worse.
I think I would opt for plywood or OSB walls in either case. I would aso consider using paint where possible and if you MUST have waterproof walls in the fish rooms, I would certainly use exhaust fans to move the humid air out and keep it in check. Otherwise it will tend to migrate through the inwall openings and cause problems in your living space.
Insulating the false walls will also be a good idea and help keep the garage cold out of the fishroom and house.
Are you able to provide us with a top down plan?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Doh sorry Randy I mistook your post as being from the OPs.
In any case I hope the response will be of benefit to both of you and I look forward to comment.
In any case I hope the response will be of benefit to both of you and I look forward to comment.
douggiestyle
New member
its over now. nothing like fresh powder bumps... in the trees.
no i didnt go, and im glad, i wasnt expecting that ice storm, though the springs may have been spared. my bud drove to lake placid after it stoped snowing up there, something like 115" of snow in 5 days?
never been to winter park.
my fave place is a-basin. favorite run is the kt22 lift line in squaw valley. but utah skiing is best, no altitude sickness. never realized it until i went there. always figured it was to much beer and such. after two acl injuries, bumps are not my best friend anymore, still ski them, just take it a bit easier.
