We were in San Juan last July. I wish I would have seen this thread before then. We were always looking for non-tourist restaurants and I would have loved to check out the fish stores. Unfortunately, we didn't get to do much snorkeling, etc., as we were only there for a long weekend. My in-laws were remarried on their 50th Wedding Anniversary so the whole family flew down. It was great. I am in love with your island and now hope to retire there!
If I get a chance to come back sooner, I will be PM'ing all of you for suggestions on where to go.
Gracias!