QT Dilema

[79chopperdr]

I am two years into my reef experience to this point I have not QT'd any fish. I have done battle with ich, bacterial infections and lost some fish for unknown reasons. As of now I have a healthy and stable crew of fish in my 210 DT mixed reef. I understand the benefits of QT NOW so please don't beat me about the head too badly.

I now want to add a few nicer more expensive fish and I have the equipment to do a set up a QT. My question is option A or option B.

Option A: Set up QT, do it right. My Concern is adding new fully decontaminated fish to gen pop with all my current germ mongers that have fought off stuff in the past. Will the new fish be a blank slate for all the stuff already swimming around in my tank?

Option B: Below my DT is a 25 gallon frag cube plumbed into the system. I have added fish the frag tank before. I like doing that because they get comfortable. I can feed them without competition from other fish and they are easy to catch if needed. I leave new fish in the frag until they are fat and happy then move them above to the DT.

Thanks

 

[small alien]

I thought you "understand the benefits of QT". I think your answer is in your question.

 

[HumbleFish]

It sounds like you're in "Ich management" mode in the 210. Understand I'm not judging, as I have done Ich management myself in the past (but now practice Ich eradication). Ich is still in your tank, but your current crop of fish have adapted and are coping with it. But you've also suffered casualties. So, any new fish you buy is a roll of the dice - QT or not. Once the new fish enters your DT his immune system will either be able to "cope and adapt", or the fish will perish. Knowing that, I personally would keep my fish purchases inexpensive, or just be happy with what I've got. I certainly wouldn't buy anything high end - too risky.

The only permanent solution to your problem is to QT all your current fish, treat for Ich, go fallow in the DT 72 days, and then QT all future fish purchases from here on in. Once you do that, you can buy more expensive fish with a better degree of confidence.

 

[79chopperdr]

@small alien. I expected some responses like that, thanks for not letting me down.

@humblefish. You confirmed my worry, thanks for you feedback it is helpful.

I do run 300 GPH through a 57 Watt Aqua UV. I know I'll never wipeout ich that way, but I should be putting a dent in it.

 

[HumbleFish]

I do run 300 GPH through a 57 Watt Aqua UV. I know I'll never wipeout ich that way, but I should be putting a dent in it.

It is. Anything you can do to put the odds slightly more in your favor helps.

Ich management 101 crash course: UV, nutrition (feed live foods i.e. blackworms, those high in protein and lots of nori), feed at least 2x daily, soak food in vitamin supplements to boost the fishes' immune systems, and only buy fish with thick mucous coats (i.e. wrasses) and those not likely to fight with one another. You wanna keep "fish stress" to a minimum.

Of course, you can do all that and still suffer a wipe out. And you'll have to accept an occasional "unexplained" fish death. But the wipe out doesn't usually come with Ich until something happens like a prolonged power outage or heater sticks or some other "stressor event"...

 

[scooter86]

No matter how well you QT your new fish, you are only as strong as your weakest link i.e.: you current germ mongers. You really need to leave your DT without fish(I forget for how long) and treat/QT your germ mongers.Otherwise you will be this smiley:headwally::headwally:

 

[79chopperdr]

:headwally:

been there done that.

This is the target...

:beer:

 

[flixxx]

Although this may sound like a long road, i believe it's the only way to ensure ich is removed from your DT.

QT all of your current fish and treat for Ich. Leave your DT fallow for 72 days.

Then you can introduce your fish back to the DT and QT everything/anything new. Good luck.

 

[Dmorty217]

The saying goes "QT and be sure,or drop and prey"

 

[snorvich]

It all depends where you want to be when it is all done. But, if you are sharing water between display tank and quarantine, you are not isolating potential problems from moving in either direction. If you are moving in the direction of more expensive and/or more sensitive fish, I suspect you already know where you need to be.

 

[Neptune 555]

Why don't we have a test to determine if ich is still present in a tank? I am at 8 weeks going fallow in DT . Good luck chopper... Keep us posted on what u decide... How many fish would you need to QT?

Neptune

 

[drej424]

I had constant issues with Ich when I first started in the hobby. I followed the instructions from someone on this site and let my tank go fallow for 12 weeks. I haven't had any problems since.

I think there is little difference between putting new fish in a frag tank that is plumbed into the system and putting them directly into the DT. The water is the same. Even if it's not convenient, qt is the only way to be certain you aren't introducing disease into your system. Otherwise, it's like playing Russian Roulette with your livestock.

 

[snorvich]

I had constant issues with Ich when I first started in the hobby. I followed the instructions from someone on this site and let my tank go fallow for 12 weeks. I haven't had any problems since.

I think there is little difference between putting new fish in a frag tank that is plumbed into the system and putting them directly into the DT. The water is the same. Even if it's not convenient, qt is the only way to be certain you aren't introducing disease into your system. Otherwise, it's like playing Russian Roulette with your livestock.

Good advice. Shared water equals shared exposure to parasites.