QT Disaster

I think generally folks that are adding more fish than 1 or 2 at a time have multiple quarantine tanks that are independent of each other (not connected to a common sump, etc) that way if one fish has a catastrophic infection the others don't get it.

Yes

Generally though it is recommended to slowly add fish to your DT because the biofilter often has to catch up to the new bioload.

yes

What a "safe" number is probably depends on a number of factors.

In the past ThRoewer has said that with Uronema infections all corals and inverts need to be culled or that display has to remain an all coral tank (no fish ever). I have found nothing that contradicts this, honestly. It's pretty scary to be in that situation.

Which is why unless one has a robust quarantine protocol, I advocate no chromis
 
I've read your TTM method write up which is what I used 5 weeks ago to hopefully cure these fish of ich (definitely doesn't look like ich, right?). It was great! I do need to read your other write ups it seems.

Brad

Here you go.

Quarantine:

formalin dip
TTM including prazipro
A minimum of five weeks observation
treatment if required
 
I sometimes add more than 2 fish to a QT, especially if they were all bought together.
But I never ever skip the formalin dip.

Also, any fish that looks suspicious gets separated. If bought as pair or group all of that pair/group get treated as if infected, even if only one shows symptoms.
 
Before I spend weeks breaking down my 290g, I'd like to be as sure as possible there may be Uronema Marinum in it. The articles I'm reading online say Vibriosis causes the same symptoms. Is there any way to distinguish the two? Vibriosis can be "cured" via tank fallow, I know Uronema cannot. Perhaps a timeline of death for Chromis? Some other way to identify? I know most of the time the fish die with their mouths open with Uronema, but no fish has died yet.

Thanks
 
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You seem extremely knowledgeable, I would rather pick your brain on the differences of Vibriosis vs Uronema Marinum than prefer one set of advice over another. I realize emptying the tank is the most conservative path, but as you know, it is an extremely drawn out process to completely empty then restart a fairly large tank.
 
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