QT tank questions

canadianeh

New member
I am planning to set up QT tank while my DT is cycling.

I read that I can use the water from WC from my DT to set up a QT tank if I don't want to set up a permanent one and just set it up only when I need it.

My question is:
If I use the water and filter floss from my DT water change, does not it mean that I am using "dirty" water and "dirty" filter floss (from detritus) to QT my livestock? I mean when all the Nitrates are in the water.

Also, is 5 gallons tank enough for QT tank. My DT is 40 gallons
 
As long as you are sure your display tank is free of pests you can use your display water. However while the tank is cycling do not use your display tank's water as it will contain ammonia and nitrites. You should use at least a 10 gallon tank for quarantine, a 5 gallon tank is too small for any fish and it will stress them
 
Thanks! Yes I know that I have to wait until it is cycled. My ammonia is 0 within 24 hours but not sure why my nitrite only came down 0.5 ppm within 24 hours.
 
a simple heater, hob filter, a couple pvc fittings along with an ammonia badge is sufficient enough for a QT tank...my whole QT setup is about the price of that HOB. You will need to perform water changes more frequent than your DT, a couple gallons every few days will work.

just as an example my qt consists of a 20G long from petco, i think it was $30, a cheapo heater off amazon $10, i went with an in tank filter instead of hob because it kind of acts as a power head and prevents dead spots, it was $20 from LFS and is good for up to 40G, 3 PVC fittings a 2" 90, 2" 45 and a 3" coupler (with he coupler i stuffed the filter floss from my DT and 3 marine pure bio balls in it to seed the tank with some bacteria) and an ammonia badge $7. I put 15G of water in the tank. I dont have a light on the tank i just open the blinds in the room its in.

If you medicate your tank im pretty sure you need to take the carbon out of your filter as it absorbs meds.

Another thing you can do is use a turkey baster to suck out un eaten food and poo.
 
Sand and rock would absorb any chemicals/medications you put in the QT, so would need to be thrown away and could not be put back in the DT. That's why most go bare bottom. You also have to remove the carbon as it will neutralize the meds.
 
If you have good QT policy, you can use tank water. I use my tank water and QT all my fish 4 weeks after no sign of sickness or ich, if they do get sick. I go 4 weeks because I don't want ich in my display. Not sure if that is possible, but so far so good.

You want the QT to be bare bottom BB. There are certain fish leopard erase example that need sand. With this, you would add a plastic container.

My QT is setup with the same parameters as my DT. Salinity is 1.025. I have never had any issue and it is easier for me to manage. It is also easier on the fish to go from QT to display.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top