Quarantime 1st timer
- Thread starter Jgodam
- Start date
PVC pipe sections for hiding, no skimmer, heater, medications you will get differing opinions, same with filtration. Some people medicate, some don't. Others use filtration with media seeded from their DT (as long as they know its pest/disease free), others use no filtration.
A lot of people use Prime and keep it on hand to watch for any ammonia spikes. Also, Seachem ammonia alert badges are handy to have, they are cheap and a quick check to make sure your ammonia isn't getting too high.
A lot of people use Prime and keep it on hand to watch for any ammonia spikes. Also, Seachem ammonia alert badges are handy to have, they are cheap and a quick check to make sure your ammonia isn't getting too high.
jay13
New member
No skimmer. Minimal filtration. Decent water movement. Use dt water if you can. Pvc and clean clay pots inside. I treat everything with coppersafe for a minimum of 72 days. Water changes weekly with remedicating afterward. Remember just because a fish looks ok even after a non medicated quarantine does not mean it is.
PatW
New member
You need a heater. You want good water movement. So you need either a good power head or a hang on the back filter.
You need hiding places. PVC elbows and tees work well for hiding places.
For medications, Prazipro is mild and it is reputed to be effective against many parasites.
Copper or Cupramine will deal with most other diseases. This treatment can be hard on the fish. Many people avoid it for this reason.
People often do the tank transfer for ich. But I don't think it works for brook or velvet.
What many people do is hold fish for 6 weeks and if they show no symptoms, into the display tank.
You need hiding places. PVC elbows and tees work well for hiding places.
For medications, Prazipro is mild and it is reputed to be effective against many parasites.
Copper or Cupramine will deal with most other diseases. This treatment can be hard on the fish. Many people avoid it for this reason.
People often do the tank transfer for ich. But I don't think it works for brook or velvet.
What many people do is hold fish for 6 weeks and if they show no symptoms, into the display tank.
Sgt Jonny Cat
Member
Heres a pretty good video on youtube I found. I hope it helps...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bRTXkHECIc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bRTXkHECIc
gone fishin
New member
FWIW my protocol consists of TTM for ich then into my main QT for 4-5 weeks for observation. At some point I will do 2 rounds of prazi.
I will usually use the TTM to increase salinity up to my DT salinity with each transfer. MY TT tanks consist of a heater, ammonia badge, an air stone and some pvc fittings. The main QT is the same except I use a powerhead instead of an air stone. I will keep prime on hand for any ammonia issues. I usually use fresh saltwater for the TTM and will keep some fresh saltwater on hand for the main QT or use some from the DT during a WC, whichever is more convenient. Good luck.
I will usually use the TTM to increase salinity up to my DT salinity with each transfer. MY TT tanks consist of a heater, ammonia badge, an air stone and some pvc fittings. The main QT is the same except I use a powerhead instead of an air stone. I will keep prime on hand for any ammonia issues. I usually use fresh saltwater for the TTM and will keep some fresh saltwater on hand for the main QT or use some from the DT during a WC, whichever is more convenient. Good luck.
Everyone will have a slightly different set of 'requirements' ..... mine, that have served me well for over a decade are .....
1. 20 to 30Long tank
2. Heater
3, Powerhead
4. Some form of basic lighting
5. ATO
6. HoB filter with pre-seeded media
7. Prime and an ammonia test-kit
8. Assorted PVC fittings for hiding spots
Most of these things are pretty basic. I like to have an ATO as a way to both ensure medications are maintained at the proper dosage and that I can adjust salinity up more easily. I maintain a large canister of seeded biomedia on my main tank so I always have adequate amounts to setup a cycled QT, whether for a planned or unplanned fish purchase.
1. 20 to 30Long tank
2. Heater
3, Powerhead
4. Some form of basic lighting
5. ATO
6. HoB filter with pre-seeded media
7. Prime and an ammonia test-kit
8. Assorted PVC fittings for hiding spots
Most of these things are pretty basic. I like to have an ATO as a way to both ensure medications are maintained at the proper dosage and that I can adjust salinity up more easily. I maintain a large canister of seeded biomedia on my main tank so I always have adequate amounts to setup a cycled QT, whether for a planned or unplanned fish purchase.
scooter31707
New member
Avoid Copper if all possible. Other unstressful treatments are more effective than copper.
Ich- Tank Transfer Method
Velvet- CP
Brook- Formalin Dip
Ich- Tank Transfer Method
Velvet- CP
Brook- Formalin Dip
Deinonych
New member
Almost exactly the same as my QT setup, although I don't bother with an ATO. I also have three of everything to make TTM easier.
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