Question on RO/DI resin/membrane replacement

wizardofyaz

In Memoriam
Hello,

I have the Spectrapure 90-GPD RO/DI System (link to item below) and wanted to see what other peoples experience has been. I have made approximately 600 gallons of water over the last six months and have three questions.

1. The TDS meter is currently reading 7ppm IN and 8ppm OUT. Shouldn't the OUT be lower since it is the water which has gone through both the RO and DI filters?

2. Does the usage of the unit seem right for where the TDS is currently at?

3. When it comes time to replace the filters/membranes, does everyone here just change all the filters/membranes at the same time?

Thanks for any advice!

http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/RO-...ystems/CSPDI-Manual-Flush-90-GPD-RO-DI-System
 
Like Nibrown9 stated, you should have 0 ppm coming out, if not, your TDS is wrong or you need to replace your filters etc...
 
I don't know what your tap water quality is, but I run a Spectrapure 90 GPD with a piggy back 90 GPD membrane. When I'm on schedule, I change 100 gallons a week. I've never had to change sediment filters in less than 6 months, and often much longer. Both membranes are almost 3 years old and I still get 1 or 2 TDS after the membranes and zero after the DI.
Unless your water is many times worse than mine, you have a problem.
Spectrapure's customer service is excellent, and they know what's in the water in Az. Give them a call, they'll help you resolve it.
 
This may help the OP (from our FAQ's):

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, go through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1,000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block (collectively called “prefilters” because the treat the water before it reaches the membrane) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The lifespan of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
Hi Russ,
Since you're here, even though this is a bit off of what the OP was asking.....
I just opened up some DI resin that's been stored in it's mylar bag, in a ziplock bag for almost 3 years. The resin smells like ammonia, not that "fishy" smell I expected. Has this stuff gone bad?
 
3 years?! Good question. One sure way to find out...

Use it and hope it doesn't kill my tank? :eek1:

After discarding the first 10 gallons, I get zero TDS and an ammonia test says zero as well. I guess my question should have been more along the lines of;

Why does this 3 yo resin smell like ammonia?

**To be clear, I didn't buy this old resin from you, I'm not accusing you (or anyone else, for that matter) of selling me anything sub par, in any way**
 
Can't says I've ever heard of that before. The anion resin sometimes has that fishy/cat pee type smell. The cation resin doesn't typically have much of an odor. Ammonia is weakly bound to the resin and is one of th first things to be released when the resin is exhausted. But you're not talking about used resin - or are you?
 
No, never used. It's been so long that I forgot what may be a pretty important detail. What stinks is one part of a two part "Silica buster system" It isn't labeled anion or cation, but it's part two, very yellow in color compared to the part one and is used 3" at the bottom of the canister with 7" of green color change resin on top. The bag was opened, some used, then ziplocked closed and stored in another ziplock bag in a dark place.
 
Hmm. That should be an anion resin - which does sometimes have a powerful smell to it. If you didn't push all the air out of it when you resealed it I'd guess it's bad.
 
Bummer. Is the Anion resin what makes this "silica buster" DI?
Being bad would mean it won't do anything positive, right? I mean it isn't going to do anything to my system except not work, I hope?
I'm getting zero TDS water from it.
 
If you're getting 0 TDS from it, that's the goal. Like any resin, if you leave it in too long it will start dumping the most weakly held ions. Use it - you're good to go!
 
That's good to hear! I have 100 gallons that I made yesterday all ready to mix in the salt :D
 
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