Questionable LFS and water

Yes it also says "had"

Yes it also says "had"

I just put l my grammica lined dartfish, swissguard basslet, spotted mandarin, Randall's prawn goby, yellow&purple wrasse, clown fish , 9 or 10 zoanthids, 2 frog spawn, candy cane, pulsing Xenia, fire shrimp, skunk shrimp, snails, and tuxedo urchin that have never had a disease and are all healthy and growing in the 40 gallon breeder.
The guy said it is for his live rock. Not for his live stock. Do you want him to have dead rock and have to deal with that. All the die off and trouble to go through with that. Trying to get it back up to par. I don't. So he uses almost RO/DI water. In a month of cycling his tank and using water that is RO/DI water for 3 weeks. The salt will buffer and water changes will pull out the extra unwanteds when he starts to use RO/DI in a week that you people worry about. That he really shouldn't overly worry about, because I speak with a year or 2 of experience using something the rest of you don't use or know nothing about except it being a number.
 

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And my info comes from a highly recommend store owner that has an RO/DI system that I over heard him saying to a customer, because he is 100% honest about the hoby. He said there is no such thing as 100% pure water. Which I stated an RO/DI does not produce 100% pure water. So when I am right and you are numbers caring person. Your claim is false too. Even though you have one. The numbers don't lie. Why would I. BTW brita filters are .038, Poland springs .042, fiji .128. Zerowater filter .000, RO/DI .000
 
I would call them and ask what salinity they mix there saltwater too and what TDS Specs,, Then compare it to what your hydrometer shows.. I have a swing arm and a Glass hydrometer . I do NOT Use a refacto-always-calibrate-me-ter... To me its a waste of money and time.. I have two of them and they are never accurate without calibrating it right before you.. Swing arm hydrometers are VERY CONSISTENT BUT you need to compare the to glass hydrometer and verify there accuracy. rinse them with ro water after each use....

With that said give the store a chance to make right by you.. It will give you a better idea of how they are.

My Opinion....
 
Agreed about the refractometer. You definitely get what you pay for.
Simple question while we are on the topic of water.
"Salt"Water when it sits in a bucket with no circulation in store like Petco or maybe even his LF. Doesn't everything go out of wack?
I was just wondering, because that is how a tank crashes when you lose power. Aside of the temp.
 
I would call them and ask what salinity they mix there saltwater too and what TDS Specs,, Then compare it to what your hydrometer shows.. I have a swing arm and a Glass hydrometer . I do NOT Use a refacto-always-calibrate-me-ter... To me its a waste of money and time.. I have two of them and they are never accurate without calibrating it right before you.. Swing arm hydrometers are VERY CONSISTENT BUT you need to compare the to glass hydrometer and verify there accuracy. rinse them with ro water after each use....

With that said give the store a chance to make right by you.. It will give you a better idea of how they are.

My Opinion....

Slightly off topic. Have you ever used a digital refractometer, like the Milwaukee? I have one. I like the quick ease of use and digital display.
 
Tanks crash without power due to lack of oxygen and temperature, not things going out of wack.

You are arguing with everyone here, just repeating something you heard your LFS say, which is literally the same thing people here are saying. RO/DI produces basically pure water, you can argue over .0001 or you can move on. Because you aren't accomplishing anything. This forum can be a great place for people to learn new things about the hobby, or seek help. You can use it as such, or you can be a new new member and respond poorly to everyone as you are now. You post in another thread that you baked and boiled rock, and snapped at anyone that told you that was a horrible idea that could have quite literally killed you. You are arguing here, telling people we can't possibly speak knowledgeably about this zerowater filter, because we don't have it. Yet you do just that with a RO/DI system.

And, at the end of the day, none of this arguing has helped the OP, because OP's rock is coming in today, so hooking up RODI or this zerowater thing won't help. Double checking the salinity of the water he/she has, and using distilled to dilute to the proper salinity probably is the only option.
 
I'm confused why he doesn't just hook up the rodi filter he has. I know he said he can't for a week but it takes zero time and next to zero materials to set up (outside of the salt and rodi filter. Unless he has some issue where his water isn't on right now and won't be on for a week.
 
I'm confused why he doesn't just hook up the rodi filter he has. I know he said he can't for a week but it takes zero time and next to zero materials to set up (outside of the salt and rodi filter. Unless he has some issue where his water isn't on right now and won't be on for a week.

Mine is connected right into the piping. He may not have the connections for that right now, or the connections to hook it up to a faucet.
 
Just wanted to correct one statement I believe is wrong if someone is reading through this later.

If your water has 0 TDS, it won't have any chlorine or chloramine as far as I'm aware. I double checked and most informed places were stating something along the lines below.

The TDS meter will read all mobile ions in the water including the chlorine (HOCl) and the chloramines(NH2Cl). You will have to test or treat the water that you suspect contains these impurities because the TDS meter will detect everything and will not single out just these ions.
 
Does it also require a calibration fluid?

It does. However, it seems to hold the correct calibration for a very long time. I have checked mine a few times over the past two months and it hasn't budged.

I personally like it. But I'm partial to "tech".


The Milwaukee digital actually calibrates with ro/di or distilled. You're not supposed to use a calibration fluid with it like you do with a traditional one. It is a great refractometer, though, and stays calibrated for a long time. (I check mine about every 6 months or so, but it doesn't change.)
 
The Milwaukee digital actually calibrates with ro/di or distilled. You're not supposed to use a calibration fluid with it like you do with a traditional one. It is a great refractometer, though, and stays calibrated for a long time. (I check mine about every 6 months or so, but it doesn't change.)

It's been awhile since I set up everything, and I did much of it in the same 1-2 days. I'm sure I followed the instructions when I did it.

What I know is, if I drop a couple of drops of calibration fluid I have for my Apex probe on it and hit "read", it always reads what the label says.
 
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