<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8824012#post8824012 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 2crazyreefers
Jhardman, my wife wants to breed clowns as well. So we are really interested in a correct set-up and foods. WE would appreciate any advice. Thank you.
OK, I am going to assume you have some experience in the hobby in general or can use the search feature here...
The overall setup:
The broodstock system(s) should be isolated from the offspring. You need to be able to tightly control the temp, lighting and visible area of this system.
The rearing system should also be isolated. You need to be able to run your lighting for upwards of 16 hours without causing problems for anything else.
The growout system is the same as the rearing system, except it has larger tanks and has some kind of nitrate filtration.
My ideal rearing system:
General description... This is a 3 tier system with a sump on the bottom with lots of filtration, skimmer, pump, heaters. On the top is a refudge that has lots of algae, pods, shrimp (cleaner and mysis) and anything else that produces live offspring that is small(er). The top tier tank gravity feeds the middle tier that have your hatching/rearing tanks.
The Sump:
Myself I like LR for the primary filtration. However it should be noted that LR can carry/harbor thing that you would not want in your rearing tank. Your pump does not have to be a monster, but you need one that can move your water to the top tier tank with 6-8' head and still get you enough turn over that your top tier and sump change over at least once an hour. I want a decent skimmer in the sump and some good heaters. I use 1000w titanium heaters on a controller. I also build a auto top off system.
The top tier:
I prefer a multi chambered acrylic tank for this. So I can separate the critters if need be. I want an overflow system with a white led light near the overflow that either stays on all the time (easiest) or that comes on when the main lights go off. This will attract the larva from the critters and flush them into the overflow.
OK, that is a little misleading. There are actually two overflows, one that returns to the sump and one that leads into the plumbing that feeds the rearing tanks. You will have more flow than the rearing tanks can handle and that water has to go somewhere.
You will need lighting that can support the algae. Your choice, just make sure it turns off and on at the same time as the lights over the rearing tanks.
Rearing Tanks:
I prefer a acrylic tank with multiple chambers. Each about the size of a standard 10g tank. The water is fed from above, the feed needs a valve on it that you can finely control. I use ball valves, but frankly they are not the best, but I refuse to pay for gate valves. I put flex line (locline) on the feeds, I want to use the flow to aerate the eggs prior to hatching and change to a defuse flow after hatching.
For the drain/overflow... Without pictures (I dont have anymore, so none forthcoming) this is a little hard to explain... Basically what I did was build a overflow that was screened off to prevent rotifers and other food stock from being washed out of the tank. I used 120µ screen (which can be found at any hatchery supply). The problem here is getting a balance between flow rate and water level. It is tricky and you should plan to rebuild the screens repeatedly until you find exactly what works for you.
So the design goes like this... From top to bottom... 2" cap to a section of 2" pipe (this is the screen) to a 2" to "whatever your drain size is" reducer to your drain pipe to your bulkhead. The 2" pipe has "windows" sawed into which I then hot glue the 120µ screen to. Do not glue the pipe together. Do not use silicone for the screen, your larva will stick to it. :eek1:
The number and size of the windows will determine the flow. I found that I ended up with 3 different pipes, going from low flow to higher flow. Tip, multiple smaller windows are better than one or two big windows. For examples of the "windows" search for Stockman overflows in the DIY forum.
Above the rearing tanks I used NO lighting about 2 1/2' above the tanks. YMMV and you may need more or less light.
Day to day use, tips:
Feeding the rearing tanks... You will add rotifers to the rearing tank and later BBS. You need to keep the food fed. IMO Instant Algae is the way to go using a metered pump into the rear tier tank. Careful not to over feed or under feed. Careful also in that you are adding water to the system, salt water. Make sure you remove as much as you add...
Once the system is up and going you should have near zero nitrogen cycle pollutant's in the system. But depending on the algae in the system you might see a build up of nitrate. Rather you see a build up or not I would still be doing a 5% to 20% water change once a week.
For water changes... I use a tee on the feed live with a valve and a hose bib. Hook the old garden hose, run to the drain, sink, toilet and let her flow. I turn off the auto top off system before draining, then put the pump in the clean SW and turn it back on then move the pump back to the RO tank once it is topped off.
Feed and drain line... 1 1/2" PVC is your friend. Unions are your friend.
You are going to keep you fry in this system until they are fully formed, and big enough to compete in the grow out system. So plan to have them in there anywhere from 8-16 weeks.
Grow out system: A mirror of the rearing system.
The difference between the grow out system and the rearing system is simply one of scale. In the rearing system you are concerned with lower flow rates as to not wash food out of tanks and beat young fish up. This is not so of a concern in the grow out system.
For grow out systems, I see lot of people using large tanks, 40g, 50g, 100g tanks. I do not like that at all. Clownfish grow at different rates, you are going to have some that grow big and fast, other that seem like they aren't growing at all. A. percula are mean ol SB's in the grow out system. You are going get "tank bosses" that are going to rip weaker fish up.
So you need to be able to sort fish out. You are not going to keep the same fish from the same hatch together the whole time you have them before sale. If you do not sort the fish, your grow out times are going to increase and the mortality is going rise. You are going to want to keep them fairly densely packed to help avoid conflict.
Your filtration needs are going to go thru the roof too. Your are going to have a lot more fish/life in the grow out system than in any other. Your algae is not going to keep up with the nitrate so you are going to have to look at some kind of nitrate filtration, rather that is a coil or chemical denitrator is up to you. Without a denitrator you are going to spend way too much on water and salt than you need to.
That brings up an important point, costs. Breeding clownfish is not cheap to start, but can be pretty low cost to maintain. Your biggest costs are food, water, and salt. Start looking around now for your cheapest sources, get your deals in place. Buy wholesale whenever possible.
There is a ton of information in this post, but there will be lots of questions. I will reply as time permits.
