questions on basic QT tank for mainly SPS

[CTaylor]

Hi,

I need to figure out setting up a QT tank, like I probably always should ahve had. Main 2 questions is a QT tank would just not be "mature". From what I know SPS to survive need to be in a matured tank that has been set up for many months, over a year. I've seen ideas on setting up one for SPS with just racks for the corals and a power filter, and basic lighting, power head for circulation.

There is nothing really to 'age' in that set up. No live rock. Perhaps it's the media in the power filter? Do I put a little piece of live rock from my DT tank in it? Or in the QT tank itself? If there is no live rock or sand in QT tank, then how would it even cycle the basic Nitrogen cycle? Again, maybe some type of power filter media?

I have no room for a QT, but I really need to do it, so max size would be 10 gallons. I have a 15watt ZET led light. I would need something brighter, right? Ideas on minimum or acceptable fixtures?

Also I'd likely QT all my corals I have now to try to 'sterilize' my DT . I dont have many, and they can all fit in the 10 gallon QT. I'd QT for 8 weeks or whoever long. Does that sound right.

The main idea of this, is that I just do not know how SPS would survive in a non-mature'd QT tank.
Thanks for any advice!

 

[Louis Z]

I am inferring that you have AEFW or red planaria or some pest. Because you want to sterilize the DT? Yes I would consider putting a matured biomedia in a filter and keep the 10 g bare bottom. I have taken a whole lot of sintered glass media in a container and have added any of the culture in a bottle additives to soak it in . Seachem or fritzyme or whichever you prefer . I even keep bags of media in my DT sump to be ready for any mishap or qt/ ht . So when I have to use one I replace it with a brand new filter bag loaded with new media for the next time . Once it comes out to use as Ht/qt, I never reintroduce it back to DT sump . Now it would be nice to have fish predators in there so as to pick off pests or nuisance algae to prevent introduction to DT . But I don't know if that would be to much for a 10gal . Hopefully others chime in so as to set up a thread on coral qt protocol.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Coral QTs are not very common. If you have a problem now, solve it. Then plan for prevention in the future. Most people don't QT sps (or any coral, really). It's more typical to try to stay clean via other methods - get corals from known sources, inspect and dip or otherwise treat before putting them in your DT.

 

[Louis Z]

Coral QTs are not very common. If you have a problem now, solve it. Then plan for prevention in the future. Most people don't QT sps (or any coral, really). It's more typical to try to stay clean via other methods - get corals from known sources, inspect and dip or otherwise treat before putting them in your DT.

I agree with trying to get from known sources . But I often get my stock from LFS and I have to say their fish are always infected with something.usually because of space constraints they often put fish in those coral and invert tanks .their corals usually have parasites too. So nothing is safe. All it takes is a drop of water that may contain a parasite to hitchhike in. Dips may take care of some free swimming parasites but if the parasite is in a cyst or egg case then dips may not kill them . . I have to admit that I am either ocd or paranoid about Qt/Ht of every invert or fish. I try to minimize my tank having to be redone or have a loss . I can't say that Qt is 100 % but it sure does make my life easier about not dismantling a 125 just because I wasn't vigilant . As for uncommon -qt I agree too , but I think that has to change. Everyone should Qt their corals also . I have seen prices already go up on frags and I surely don't have a lot of money to buy small colonies for 200 or more . Now that Indonesia shut down . Our precious stock just got even more valuable. If you read thru many of the parasite threads of coral and fish then you will understand what a problem the industry has .

 

[CTaylor]

Louis, i was thinking, would the media in the filter just be a place for the parasites to live ? And therefore defeat the purpose of the QT tank unless the QT itself is treated? Which i dont think it can (with Coral Rx and / or Bayer). I get all my corals lately from Liveaquaria, I think they can be trusted pretty well. I would consider extreme corals again, and cherry corals (those three the only ones I have bought from in the last few years).

Though I haven't dipped, and after dipping an acro this past weekend, I don't see why I do not do it. There was no negative impact. It only had better PE immediately after.

So from now on I'll at min dip in Rx, maybe Bayer, after I inspect and brush with toothbrush if I need to. QT tank sometime. I know I should now, just have no place to do it, and still havent resolved 'issue' of what type of media if any.

**With tooth brush, do you actually brush the live tissue? Would eggs be on live tissue or only just below it on the base area?

TY

 

[Louis Z]

Yes the media I use in a qt tank is now considered to be a potential source of reinfection . I treat corals and inverts the same way I do the TTM with fish . I keep moving the stock to a new tank after each dipping /treatment process . it's a process of elimination . Once they are moved to the new Qt tank, I observe and inspect for any tiny speck . (Paranoia) . In the TTM it's usually every 3 days . In those 3 days it's usually too short time of a time for ammonia or nitrites To spike . Unless you are feeding often or heavily . . With the corals light should be sufficient to keep them temporary without feeding. So with this reasoning, I don't add the biomedia yet but I do test the water for ammonia daily . It only takes 2min . I use API test for ammonia. Eventually after I have dipped and inspected several times with tank transfers, I then put them in a qt tank with the biomedia for up to a month to be sure nothing has hatched and is visible . Yes I like coral rx . I haven't had anything show adverse affects to it . The Bayer dip is good too and a must at least twice. I have seen others dip their infected corals up to 8 different times with bayer . What they try to do is keep killing anything that has hatched before they can lay eggs again. It's like the process of elimination. I have relied heavily upon the shoulders of the other reefers here and on another site. I see what they have posted from their experience and trials . A lot of the coral pests are resilient and tough. I have also learned to cut away much of the frag plugs because thay usually are a place for flatworms to lay eggs. That I do brush. I cringed when I saw pictures of eggs on the underside of the plugs . So I cut off most of the base plug with a Dremel. I try not to brush or damage tissue as much as possible and wait for the dips to take effect . I don't want RTN to set in on these small pieces of coral.

 

[Louis Z]

As for biomedia I use the sintered glass chips that you cAn get at the hydroponics stores . It has a lot of surface area It's a big bag far cheaper than the small amt I get at the fish stores . I Also use zeolite in the bag . But i don't use the zeovit system. I get it at petco fairly cheap for the purpose. . I consider these expendable for the price . Once used, I have soaked them in a chlorox solution to disinfect followed by rinsing then soaking in the cleaning vinegar followed by rinsing again and then sun drying (paranoia) .

 

[Louis Z]

This is what I use https://www.amazon.com/Growstone-95...856950&sr=8-1&keywords=growstones+hydroponics