Quick question on hiding an internal c2c

[lelandgray]

Hey guys,

I currently have a 75g with an eShopps overflow going into my sump. I just picked up a 125g 6' and I want to go a different route. I've been researching the c2c external/internal using a BA setup, and I think I like this the best. However, my only concern is how do you hide everything? I don't want to be able to see any plumbing or anything. It seems that with every internal c2c I've seen that uses glass, you can see through it all and see everything.

I plan on painting the back piece of glass so you can't see the wall behind the tank, but obviously I can't paint the area where the external area is.. and I can't paint the internal section either since it'll be in the water.. unless, can I?

I've read about using acrylic, in which case I could use black acrylic, but I'm afraid it'll separate from the silicone down the road. Of course it may not, but that's always a risk. I have a 5.5 AIO setup that uses a glass tank and black acrylic to separate the overflow/return area and I've never had an issue, but then again it's a small tank.

Thanks in advance!

 

[sleepydoc]

If you do an internal-external like you're talking about, the only plumbing you will see is the bulkhead flanges, so it's really not that intrusive. I'm not aware of any adhesive films or paint that can be used underwater, so if you absolutely don't want to see anything, you can either get tinted glass, or acrylic. Tinted glass can be expensive, so check with your supplier on cost, but that would be the best option.

Silicone will not adhere to acrylic long term. Since the silicone does bond extremely well to glass, a silicone bead will probably do an adequate job of holding the baffle in place simply by forming a channel in which the acrylic will sit and wedging it tight. A 6' baffle is pretty long, though and could conceivably bow in the middle.

The other problem with acrylic is that it expands in water, so if the baffle is too long it could either expand enough to stress the tank walls, or bow/buckle.

Another option would be to put a glass baffle in for the overflow baffle and have a piece of tinted acrylic either in front of or behind it to obscure the plumbing. I'm not sure that that would look any better, though.

 

[lelandgray]

Thanks for the reply sleepydoc. I read somewhere (I've clicked sooo many links to different threads, I can't remember where) that a guy was going to use window tint on the glass overflow to try to hide it. (EDIT: Maybe not "hide it", but make it so you couldn't see through it) Has anyone tried that? or is it a bad idea?

Also, I just happened to think. If my external box will have all the plumbing, do I NEED to have bulkheads going through the tank from the internal to external box? assuming I just use 2 pieces of glass for the internal c2c box and 4 pieces on the external (bottom, back, and sides), couldn't I just cut the holes and run with them open without the bulkheads?

 

[Breadman03]

Check out Reef Savvy. They have a smoked overflow.

 

[aaronpentz]

Why not just paint the plumbing inside the tank the same color as your background

 

[sleepydoc]

Can't say on the window tint idea. I'm seem to remember someone trying it and it not working long term, but don't quote me on that.

re: the bulkheads, no you don't need actual bulkheads if all you're doing is using the hole for water to pass through.

 

[booth2010]

Elite Custom Glass sells black and gray tempered glass panels that I am going to use for mine. You could use those for all panels not being drilled and get a regular panel for the drilled part

 

[aaronpentz]

A lot of window tint is metallized. I wouldn't use it in the water.

 

[lelandgray]

Elite Custom Glass sells black and gray tempered glass panels that I am going to use for mine. You could use those for all panels not being drilled and get a regular panel for the drilled part

I went a Elite's website and put in the dimensions of the main piece of glass for the internal c2c, the one that you'd see when looking at the tank straight on. A black 71.5" x 6" piece of tempered glass is $109 plus shipping.. :uhoh3:

I have a local acquaintance that has his own custom window business, I'll have to see if he can help me out.

 

[drew2007]

I painted all the plumbing in the c2c black(which is only 3 elbows) so it's not as noticeable with the back of tank painted black. IMHO it's not an eyesore and not really noticeable unless your up close.

 

[robertifly]

I used 3/8" for my outside box and 1/4" acrylic for the inside although I'm not ctc because I wanted returns thru the back at the corners (works to break drain back siphon). My tank is 1/2 glass and yeah I did have some salt creep, leak outside after 10 years or so, last year I took them apart and cleaned, resealed with just a little silicone, rubber gaskets both sides of glass. Don't think there's much to worry about, first time I built it I didn't use any sealant and took ten years to start leaking.

 

[mrx66699]

I have a 540 with a c2c overflow doing the same thing you want to do....I do a lot of acrylic work and built it myself its 94in long x 2in wide and 5in top to bottom takes up hardly any real estate and can out run the two reeflow supergold darts 4300 each that are running the returns, I have to dial the plumbing down with two gate valves or it totally out does the pumps .......both pumps are allowed to run wide open with no backpressure ....go with the black acrylic and it will be your best option