quieting a durso pipe, am I right here?

polyppetey

New member
I bought a used tank a while ago and have finally added water and completed leak testing. I have to say the standpipe does the toilet flush thing and the returns in my sump are like a bubbling cauldron. I can eliminate it buy throttling back the pump (quiet one 3000) to about <180 GPH but it gives me very little initial flow in the tank and I would like more water going through the filter.
At full flow it can fill a gallon jug in about 10 seconds (360 GPH) which is where I would like it to be. The standpipe is a durso type with 1 small airbleed on top and 2 1/2 inch holes drilled in the sides below the bend on the pipe itself. The return is rated at 600 GPH according to the calculator here. It is all plumbed in 1 inch pipe.

Here are my thoughts:

After searching online as well as here I assume the hole in the top of my overflow to allow air in is too small. I plan to fit some sort of adjustable valve into the top to correct this.

The return line goes straight down into the sump, right before it hits the water line there is a 90 degree angle split into another vertical return pipe (see the picture) I figure I should have a 45 degree bend in the line going to a "T" split to divide the return water equally between both endpipes Sort of like a slightly crooked upside down "Y".


Am I correct here? Before I rip everything apart I thought I would post here for feed back.

Thank you.
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I'd start by removing all the drain plumbing separating the union. Buy a matching union, probably @ HD. Then take the male/inside part of the union & add a section of pvc to go just under the sump level an inch or two. Place a 45* elbow under water to smooth the transition.

That will ease any drain back pressure & simplify things cheap & quick without destroying what you own now.

What is in the sump on the left? can't tell if it's some sort of filter or pump.

Anyways, i'd remove all the return plumbing also. Remove all up to that vertical barb just below the bulkhead. Then grab a couple of feet of vinyl hose & connect your return pump directly to the bulkhead above. You can reuse the ball valve w/ barb fitting which can be placed between the pump & bulkhead to allow for some adjustment, if needed.

Seems like alot but probably under $25 in supplies & would really clean things up & allow you to locate any noise much easier.

Just what I'd do. Good Luck.
 
I tried to submerge the end of the return with some scrap pieces I had and it still bubbles like crazy the problem is up top in the tank. I found some people using ball valves to add back pressure to the return pipe but I think that is a recipe for disaster. Wouldn't adding an angle or 2 have the same effect.
 
Yeah, I don't know why you'd ever want to limit the amount of water able to flow into your sump with your pump on full bore (assuming you have redundant safety features built into the plumbing/sump to prevent overflow) Seems to me that water into sump must be > or = to water leaving sump to prevent tank overflow.

IMO, the solution to your toilet bowl sound lies in the top of the standpipe. With holes drilled at the waterline, you essentially are left with a vertical pipe (no inverted section). If it were me, I'd get another set of 90 turns and re-do the siphon part. Drill a small hole at the top and see how it turns out. The idea above about flexible tubing isn't a bad one for overall noise reduction, but I don't know that it will solve the specific problem you're having.
 
I tried blocking off the 2 drilled holes on each side of the standpipe it only made the surging worse. Should I block them off and have a larger air bleed on top.
 
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