Randy's 180G Reef-Photo Journal
- Thread starter rdmpe
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This is the powerhead that Marc has been testing in his tank. I doubt that they will sell to many of these. Looking at the website they are priced at $345.00 That is way too much. :thumbdown :thumbdown :thumbdown The company is way to greedy. If they would priced them for the consumer then they would make a profit. It is bad marketing to price so the average consumer can not afford them.
rdmpe
New member
WOW! $345??? That is way way more than I would pay for them.
Hey Marc - last night my halides went off about 9pm. I decided to siphon the visible flatworms so got the stuff together and turned one of the halides back on so I could see. But the flatworms were gone! I couldn't find any. Do they hide at night and come out in the daytime?
Also, I have an 800 micron "media bag" for carbon and such, and I have a 100 micron filter bag. Can I use the larger media bag rather than the filter bag? The worms that I can see are probably big enough to be caught by the media bag, but there may be tiny ones that I don't see...
Hey Marc - last night my halides went off about 9pm. I decided to siphon the visible flatworms so got the stuff together and turned one of the halides back on so I could see. But the flatworms were gone! I couldn't find any. Do they hide at night and come out in the daytime?
Also, I have an 800 micron "media bag" for carbon and such, and I have a 100 micron filter bag. Can I use the larger media bag rather than the filter bag? The worms that I can see are probably big enough to be caught by the media bag, but there may be tiny ones that I don't see...
good one
New member
Airman or anyone, how much water does it move?? i couldn't find anything about them on gph? also is anyone interested in a tool to measure electricity use??
just an fyi, no need to reply in this thread, don't want to hijack it, just go to the link below.
Kill A Watt Meter Group buy
Boston Reefers are doing a group buy on 15A Kill A Watt Meters
With electric costs going up, I'm trying to find out how much "stuff" uses in my house. How much does my phone charger use when plugged in? How much do my TV, DVD/VCR & stereo use 24x7 while NOT in use? Microwave standby & other items? PC monitor & Computer when NOT in use?
If I upgrade to an LCD 19" what will the difference be?
Is it possible I am using $20-50 a month in "junk" that can be turned off?
So, who wants to go in on getting one?
$25.50 each for multiples greater then 2.
Case price drops it to $24...not a huge drop...but
Another seller will sell at $22.50 each including shipping
A bulk price for 4 cases drops it to $20 each
15a model:
http://www.microdaq.com/p3-internat...-watt/index.php
Please post on BRS site if interested
Thread on BRS Website:
http://216.235.242.50/forums/showth...?t=21954&page=2
__________________
MACNA XVIII 2006??!!!
My Avatar: Pic taken on my honeymoon (usually)
Struggling to achieve 10,000 posts
PM = Public Message
Saving my Pennies for a 10' x 3' x 30" glass tank
just an fyi, no need to reply in this thread, don't want to hijack it, just go to the link below.
Kill A Watt Meter Group buy
Boston Reefers are doing a group buy on 15A Kill A Watt Meters
With electric costs going up, I'm trying to find out how much "stuff" uses in my house. How much does my phone charger use when plugged in? How much do my TV, DVD/VCR & stereo use 24x7 while NOT in use? Microwave standby & other items? PC monitor & Computer when NOT in use?
If I upgrade to an LCD 19" what will the difference be?
Is it possible I am using $20-50 a month in "junk" that can be turned off?
So, who wants to go in on getting one?
$25.50 each for multiples greater then 2.
Case price drops it to $24...not a huge drop...but
Another seller will sell at $22.50 each including shipping
A bulk price for 4 cases drops it to $20 each
15a model:
http://www.microdaq.com/p3-internat...-watt/index.php
Please post on BRS site if interested
Thread on BRS Website:
http://216.235.242.50/forums/showth...?t=21954&page=2
__________________
MACNA XVIII 2006??!!!
My Avatar: Pic taken on my honeymoon (usually)
Struggling to achieve 10,000 posts
PM = Public Message
Saving my Pennies for a 10' x 3' x 30" glass tank
tgunn
Active member
Randy, bummer about the flatworms.. Hopefully you're able to suck them out without having to resort to chemical treatments (ie FWE)...
My "scourge" from the LFS is aptasia; still have a few here and there and no matter how many I kill there's always another that comes back..
Tyler
My "scourge" from the LFS is aptasia; still have a few here and there and no matter how many I kill there's always another that comes back..
Tyler
melev
Well-known member
I've always siphoned them out when the lights are on, not at night. I don't really know what their nocturnal habits are, since I've not had any in my system in years. I can't even remember what they did in the frag tank from last fall, although I seem to remember seeing them on the viewing panels late at night.
Any mesh bag (or knee highs) will work fine, and be easy to wash out. A filter sock would be stained for sure, so I'd not go that route.
Any mesh bag (or knee highs) will work fine, and be easy to wash out. A filter sock would be stained for sure, so I'd not go that route.
Chappy
Member
If its a rock you can pick up without any corals on it, you can do a freshwater dip. They fall off pretty quickly. I did that with a mushroom rock I bought that I noticed the flatworms. It worked great. (Its a lot easier if you haven't added them into your tank yet). The tank is looking pretty cool!
I would get a sixline, it will last longer than the mandarin (even though I think the mandarin is the most brilliantly colored saltwater fish ever).
I would get a sixline, it will last longer than the mandarin (even though I think the mandarin is the most brilliantly colored saltwater fish ever).
rdmpe
New member
I'm going to get a 6 line or 8 line wrasse, and a mandarin, and probably a yellow cory wrasse as well. I need some fish in there anyway 
Think that's too many fish to add at once to a 180g? Too much ammonia spike? I do have a fuge w/good macro growth and the skimmer....
I can't take the rock out, it's pretty much locked in place. I have hardly seen any of them the last few days. Maybe the sally lightfoot crab is eating some???
I did siphon some flatworms out last night. I need to pick up some rigid airline tubing though, my current setup is a total PITA. as I have to stick my hand down in the tank while looking through the glass
Hopefully with siphoning them when I see them, combined with the predators, I may be OK.
So I'm having a little bit of Ca/Alk imbalance. It seems that my alk demand is much higher than my calcium demand. Here's what I posted in the chemestry forum...
I'm using the DIY recipe #1 since my PH runs around 8.2 days and 8.0 nights.
I was dosing 90 ml of two part per day in my 180g. But my alk still dropped slightly over a period of 4 days, while calcium stayed about the same.
So I started dosing 120 ml per day beginning 2/27.
2/27 readings were alk 3.05, ca 405.
3/03 readings were alk 3.05, ca 500+??
My salifert test stays pink. I did it twice and have done the test many times so I don't think it's any problem with my methods. I guess I could count the drops to zero and then count the drops additional in order to extrapolate the reading since it is above 500. Would that be accurate?
Any thoughts on why my alk demand seems so much higher than my ca demand?
So I guess I could probably dose 120 ml alk and zero ca and test every night until I get back into the balanced range. But it seems that once I get balanced again, equal dosing of the two part isn't keeping my system balanced. I'll have to continue to dose more alk than ca I think.
Here is what I'm using as a reference for getting my ca/alk balanced again.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
Think that's too many fish to add at once to a 180g? Too much ammonia spike? I do have a fuge w/good macro growth and the skimmer....
I can't take the rock out, it's pretty much locked in place. I have hardly seen any of them the last few days. Maybe the sally lightfoot crab is eating some???
I did siphon some flatworms out last night. I need to pick up some rigid airline tubing though, my current setup is a total PITA. as I have to stick my hand down in the tank while looking through the glass
Hopefully with siphoning them when I see them, combined with the predators, I may be OK.So I'm having a little bit of Ca/Alk imbalance. It seems that my alk demand is much higher than my calcium demand. Here's what I posted in the chemestry forum...
I'm using the DIY recipe #1 since my PH runs around 8.2 days and 8.0 nights.
I was dosing 90 ml of two part per day in my 180g. But my alk still dropped slightly over a period of 4 days, while calcium stayed about the same.
So I started dosing 120 ml per day beginning 2/27.
2/27 readings were alk 3.05, ca 405.
3/03 readings were alk 3.05, ca 500+??
My salifert test stays pink. I did it twice and have done the test many times so I don't think it's any problem with my methods. I guess I could count the drops to zero and then count the drops additional in order to extrapolate the reading since it is above 500. Would that be accurate?
Any thoughts on why my alk demand seems so much higher than my ca demand?
So I guess I could probably dose 120 ml alk and zero ca and test every night until I get back into the balanced range. But it seems that once I get balanced again, equal dosing of the two part isn't keeping my system balanced. I'll have to continue to dose more alk than ca I think.
Here is what I'm using as a reference for getting my ca/alk balanced again.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
melev
Well-known member
Your alk and Ca levels are pretty close to correct. The Alk is 8.5 dKH (range is 8 to 11 dKH) and Calcium is 500+ when all you need is 450ppm. I would skip one day of dosing calcium. If you are testing with Salifert, you can add more of the final solution to the syringe to figure out how much the calcium is, but I'd just skip a day or two and then test.
How long has the tank been up again, and how much true LR (not base rock) does it contain?
How long has the tank been up again, and how much true LR (not base rock) does it contain?
rdmpe
New member
I just hope I don't have so much ca that I could get a precipitation event. I'm not sure how much higher my alk would have to be to trigger that. I'll just try to dose enogh alk to keep steady and then test a couple of hours later.
The first LR went in December 03, 2005. There is approx. 130 lb of LR. I have coraline forming all over everything, including the baserock. But I thought that would use the alk and ca in similar portions to what I'm dosing with the two part.
The first LR went in December 03, 2005. There is approx. 130 lb of LR. I have coraline forming all over everything, including the baserock. But I thought that would use the alk and ca in similar portions to what I'm dosing with the two part.
rdmpe
New member
So that top part is the resin that is "used up"? See I thought the two were the cation-attracting VS. anion-attracting parts that separated. But from what you say, that isn't the case.
I was thinking that the top color seemed to be gaining ground on the bottom color - so I guess that turns out to be a pretty good way for me to judge when to buy more DI resin! :thumbsup:
I was thinking that the top color seemed to be gaining ground on the bottom color - so I guess that turns out to be a pretty good way for me to judge when to buy more DI resin! :thumbsup:
tgunn
Active member
Randy, I found that my tank was seemingly using up tonnes of Ca and Alk to start; I was dosing 1/3 cup of each every day. Finally the quick usage stopped. So much so that I dose perhaps 1/3 cup every 3-4 days. I think the coraline was really using it at first but then it slowed down...
Hopefully the sand doesn't bind up on you. It happened to me in places. Not the end of the world; just looks like there's some rubble here and there, but certainly not something I wanted to have happen.
For your RO/DI system, do you have the final carbon filter doing into the DI? Or do you have it after the DI? I only used the final carbon (while it was still good) in the line that went to my RO only drinking tap upstairs. I didn't use it before or after the DI. I found it raised the TDS unecessarily.
I believe when I looked up the brand info for the resin they use in these systems (purolite brand) that one of the features is that it visually separates into the cation/anion. I am not certain which is which, but it's my understanding that that's the color difference. I saved the separated resins; I want to try to recharge 'em once I have some more used resin to try it with.
I found that the color change in the resin itself was a useless measure of when the resin was used up. I basically looked for the time when the RO and DI were both the same TDS. At that point you know it's used up and time to change. My RO is typically around 2, and my DI is usually 0. I've installed a Tee after the RO and a little valve so I can easily measure the TDS.
Another thing to look for is to check your first prefilter every now and then. I didn't realize it but mine gets clogged with sediment within 1-2 months of installation and after that point my TDS starts to go up post RO. So I change my sediment filter every month now..
Tyler
Hopefully the sand doesn't bind up on you. It happened to me in places. Not the end of the world; just looks like there's some rubble here and there, but certainly not something I wanted to have happen.
For your RO/DI system, do you have the final carbon filter doing into the DI? Or do you have it after the DI? I only used the final carbon (while it was still good) in the line that went to my RO only drinking tap upstairs. I didn't use it before or after the DI. I found it raised the TDS unecessarily.
I believe when I looked up the brand info for the resin they use in these systems (purolite brand) that one of the features is that it visually separates into the cation/anion. I am not certain which is which, but it's my understanding that that's the color difference. I saved the separated resins; I want to try to recharge 'em once I have some more used resin to try it with.
I found that the color change in the resin itself was a useless measure of when the resin was used up. I basically looked for the time when the RO and DI were both the same TDS. At that point you know it's used up and time to change. My RO is typically around 2, and my DI is usually 0. I've installed a Tee after the RO and a little valve so I can easily measure the TDS.
Another thing to look for is to check your first prefilter every now and then. I didn't realize it but mine gets clogged with sediment within 1-2 months of installation and after that point my TDS starts to go up post RO. So I change my sediment filter every month now..
Tyler
rdmpe
New member
I also have the carbon on a tee of the ro filter, so my drinking water goes from the RO to the carbon, and my aquarium water goes from the RO to the DI. The pressure tank is right after the RO filter, so it will force the water through the carbon or DI, depending on which valve is gets opened.
So do you just visually look at your prefilters? You found that if you let them go too long your RO water tds goes up? I was wondering about that. I have no idea if my prefilters are clogged or fine
So do you just visually look at your prefilters? You found that if you let them go too long your RO water tds goes up? I was wondering about that. I have no idea if my prefilters are clogged or fine
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