RBTA Light requirements
- Thread starter 20pilot
- Start date
WDLV
Skunk Hybrid Freak
They're not particularly demanding. What do you have now? Also you should provide a little info about your system and experience in general. A full tank shot would be helpful to see where you are in the process right now.
If you are new, I will tell you that while anemones do appeal to beginners, they are not a beginner's animal. Have you kept corals?
If you are new, I will tell you that while anemones do appeal to beginners, they are not a beginner's animal. Have you kept corals?
surfthreeeleven
New member
I keep all my BTA's (both rose and green) under PC's and they are doing great. BTAs are one of the more hardy anenomes (short of condy's) that seems to have a better chance surviving in the home aquarium. I originally had them under metal halides, but they seemed to stay small and hide from the light. Under the PC, they expand quite a bit more and have started splitting regularly. Most all of the other species of anenomes however generally require metal halides to stand a chance, or at minimum a strong T-5 setup...
Check this website: http://www.karensroseanemones.com/ - Some great info regarding BTAs...
Check this website: http://www.karensroseanemones.com/ - Some great info regarding BTAs...
WDLV
Skunk Hybrid Freak
You should be able to keep BTAs under your current lighting rig. The only thing i will say about it is that you should be religious about changing your bulbs out every six months. Flourescents tend to yellow and lose their intensity after that. Halides are good for 10-12 months. I use halides for that reason. I really see no difference in performance between two different lighting types as long as they're compared watt to watt. Many say flourescents are not powerful enough to keep SPS or light demanding anemones. This is simply not true but you must maintain the same 250W of flourescent that you would halide. In that instance I think the flourescents actually provide more light. The trade off is in cost. If I run 3x96W PCFs over a 3'x3' area, I have 288W. The closest comparison would be one 250W MH. In this instance I have to replace three bulbs twice as often. I'm sure you get the point... MH is cheaper to run in the long term.
WDLV
Skunk Hybrid Freak
I think 3 250W MH would be plenty of light for that space. If you wanted to aquascape so that there's a trench in the center, you could run two 250W MH.
dynastykid
New member
I have had my RBTA under T5's now for a week and it is still looking very good. I believe for these nems they do well under various lighting but, more importantly need good and stable parameters. Good luck!
bud do the simple options. i've had my RBT's split up in my tank and have bred them for almost 5 years now. minimun lighting requirement is t5 or vho lighting. the best for them if you want them to come out with a very red color would be hallides. They love bright strong lighting. if lighting is too much for them they usually just go somewhere underneath the rock where it doesn't give out too much light and when they want more lighting they'll just move out of the rock and position themself where they get good lighting. you might also think about feeding them pieces of shrimp, clams or fish(raw) where you can get them from any supermarket and soak it with selcon for 10 min before feeding them. they will come out nice, healthy and colorful.
just an FYI i know someone mentioned that they're not particularly demanding. i started with pc lighting and a yellow bubble tip anemone and within months it started shrinking and just died on me. Most anemones like bright strong lighting. the Cheaper anemones are the ones that are not demanding.
just an FYI i know someone mentioned that they're not particularly demanding. i started with pc lighting and a yellow bubble tip anemone and within months it started shrinking and just died on me. Most anemones like bright strong lighting. the Cheaper anemones are the ones that are not demanding.
